Tag: serger wave stitch

My Fun and Festive Gather Together Serger Apron

Every year my fellow employees and I sew up holiday aprons to display in the store. For my 2021 holiday apron I made the Gather Together Serger Apron by Baby Lock.

The Gather Together Serger Apron pattern was based on a sewing pattern by Pat Bravo of Art Gallery Fabrics, which was adapted for serger construction. See links to both apron patterns in the Resources section of this post. 

How I Used My Serger

I serged the entire apron using only my Baby Lock Evolution serger. It’s a great apron pattern to try making with your serger. You can use your serger to make as little or as much of the apron as you like.

Edge Finishes

I used a variety of edge finishes to complete this apron, which utilized different stitches and/or attachments.

  • Overlock stitch to keep raw edges from unravelling
  • Rolled hem stitch for ruffles
  • Wave stitch for fabric flower
  • Hem sides of apron with ¼” plain hemmer attachment and chain stitch
  • Encase edges of bodice and make neck straps with a double fold bias binder and chain stitch

Gathering and Ruffles

I gathered the ruffles using two different techniques.

  • Four thread overlock technique which makes adjustable gathers, similar to a double row of basting stitches using a sewing machine. This technique is perfect for gathering fabric where you need to adjust the gathers to fit.
  • Narrow cover stitch technique which makes permanent gathers. The gathers created by the cover stitch are much fuller than those created by an overlock stitch. However, they can not be adjusted.
  • Long stitch lengths and differential feed are used in both gathering techniques. 

Seams and Construction

I serged all seams using a chain stitch.

Feet and Attachments

I used the following feet and attachments to construct the Gather Together Serger Apron:

  • Double fold bias binder 36mm
  • Plain hemmer ¼”
  • Cover/chain stitch foot
  • Clear foot. The pattern did not call for this foot, but I like it’s visibilty. I thought the visibility of the foot made it easier for me to attach the double fold bias binding to the apron bodice.
  • Standard foot

Photo Overview of my Gather Together Serger Apron

Wave Stitch

I used the wave stitch to finish the edges of the fabric flower. Metallic thread in both loopers gave the edges a bit of holiday sparkle. If your serger isn’t capable of the wave stitch you could substitute a rolled hem or three thread overlock stitch.

gather together serger apron
gather together serger apron

Three Thread Rolled Hem

I used a three thread rolled hem to finish the edges of the ruffles, with metallic thread in the upper looper.

gather together serger apron
gather together serger apron

Gathering The Bodice

The bodice of the apron was gathered using a four thread overlock stitch. After gathering with my serger, the bodice still needed a bit more gathering. Gathers created with the four thread overlock are adjustable. So I slid the fabrics along the needle threads adjusting the bodice edges to the proper dimensions. See link about gathering in the Resources section of this post.

gather together serger apron
gather together serger apron

Hem Sides of Skirt with ¼” Plain Hemmer Attachment

I love to try new things with my serger. Using the serger plain hemmer was a new experience for me. I hemmed the side edges of the apron’s skirt using the ¼” plain hemmer, a chain stitch and a standard presser foot. My practice piece turned out perfectly. It must have been beginner’s luck because the first hem on the actual project took me three tries to get it right. I figured out that I needed to generously turn/roll the edge of the fabric in advance and keep it turned as I fed it into the attachment. Then the plain hemmer worked really well. The second side hem of the apron looked beautiful on the first try! See the link in the Resources section for tips for using a serger ¼” plain hemmer.

The plain hemmer rolls the hem to the top side as it is serged. So you feed your fabric into the attachment with the wrong side up. The needle thread will be seen on the back side of your finished project. The chain looper thread will be seen on the right side of your project.

gather together serger apron
gather together serger apron

Finish Edges of Bodice and Create Straps Using a Double Fold Bias Binder Attachment

I followed the video class/instructions to make the apron. However, instead of making the top edge and neck straps all one piece, I bound the top edge first. Then I bound the side edges of the bodice and continued the binding from the sides to make the neck straps.

gather together serger apron
gather together serger apron
gather together serger apron
gather together serger apron

Gathering Ruffles Using a Narrow Cover Stitch

I used a narrow cover stitch along with the cover stitch foot to gather the narrow ruffle strip, bottom ruffle skirt and flower. The narrow cover stitch gathers fabric much more tightly than gathering with an overlock stitch. But the cover stitch gathers are not adjustable like the gathers made by serger overlock stitching.

gather together serger apron
gather together serger apron

Construct Seams

I used the chain stitch to serge the seams of the bodice, skirt and waistband/ties. Serging with a chain stitch is very similar to using a sewing machine straight stitch.

gather together serger apron

I attached the narrow ruffle and bottom ruffle to the skirt of the apron using a chain stitch too.

gather together serger apron
gather together serger apron

Gather Together Serger Apron

I hope you enjoyed learning about how I serged my Gather Together Serger Apron.

serging with jen
gather together serger apron

Resources

Using a Serger Plain Hemmer Attachment https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/serger-plain-hemmer-attachment/

Tips for Using a Serger Double Fold Bias Binder Attachment https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/serger-double-fold-bias-binder-tutorial/

Gathering Fabric Using a Serger Overlock Stitch https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/how-to-gather-fabric-using-a-serger-overlock-stitch/

Links to apron patterns:

Find the serger version – Gather Together Serger Apron by Pam Mahshie of Baby Lock at www.sewedclasses.com

Find the free sewing version of the pattern at: http://www.patbravo.com/freeprojects/sewing/Spiceitup-1.pdf

gather together serger apron

Serger Trim Catcher & Mat

What happens to the fabric and thread you trim off as you serge? Does it end up on your lap, your table, your floor or stuck to your project? Spend less time cleaning up and more time serging with Jen’s Serger Trim Catcher & Mat!

Use a serger trim catcher to keep fabric and thread trimmings out of your lap

The first serger I ever owned had a plastic catch bin that attached to the front cover. It worked well for catching small bits of thread. But if you were cutting off much fabric there was a problem. The catch tray would cause the trimmed fabric to flip up into the loopers and get caught in my stitching. After a few mishaps, I removed the bin and let the trimmings fall to the table or my lap. Eventually I grew tired of all the “hitch hikers” that seemed to travel all over my house as they fell from my clothes. I needed a solution. 

My solution was to use my serger to make a simple trim catcher mat that was easy to clean and non-slip, so that my serger didn’t vibrate around on my table. After experimenting with a few ideas, I came up with a working prototype that met all my requirements. And to celebrate National Serger Month, I thought I would share my design with you.

The Design of Jen’s Serger Trim Catcher & Mat 

  • I chose oil cloth for its smooth wipeable surface and its substantial “weight”. The serger trimmings wipe easily into the pocket on the front and are easy to scoop out and throw away. 
  • Grip shelf liner (or rug grip) seemed like a good material to keep my serger from vibrating around the table as I worked.
  • The design should be simple and easy to construct.
  • I didn’t want any extra pockets to hold tools on the front of my catcher. Having tools right in front of me is like asking them to get caught in my project while I serge. I prefer to have a tray on the table next to my machine to hold my accessories.
  • The Evolution was my first serger with Babylock’s exclusive wave stitch and the trim catcher was my first project on that serger. I just had to use the wave stitch to embellish the outer edges of the trim catcher and mat!
  • This mat works well for 4 thread overlock machines and smaller 8 thread overlock machines like the Babylock Evolution.
  • Finished size of Jen’s Serger Trim Catcher & Mat – 15” x 18”.
trim catcher serger project

Serging with Oil Cloth and Grip Liner

The only reason I didn’t put “easy” in the title of this project is because of the challenge of working with my chosen fabric. Both the grip liner and the oil cloth are “grippy” and can stick to the bed of your machine or table. I wasn’t sure that I could successfully serge the grip shelf liner and the oil cloth together, but the Babylock Evolution handled it beautifully! As I serged, I made sure the grip layer on the bottom was well supported and not catching on my machine or table. Be certain to test the combination of grip shelf liner and oil cloth layers with your serger. If your serger doesn’t like feeding the grip shelf liner you could always glue it to the underside of the oil cloth after you have completed the serging steps. 

Pocket Support

The first catcher I made did not include a dowel or boning for support of the pocket edge. It worked fine, but the pocket edge became a little droopy over time. So in my other versions, I tried a ¼” thick wooden dowel, and a piece of plastic boning (used in clothing for support).  Both work well to support the upper edge of the trim catcher pocket. As you can see in the photo below, the pocket with the dowel is more rigid and the pocket with the boning is more flexible. 

how a serger trim catcher works

The Wave Stitch

The wave stitch looks best with thick decorative thread and serged onto the edge of a stable material that will not pucker under the weight and width of the stitching. It’s a stitch with oscillating tensions that creates a “wave” with the upper and lower looper threads. The wave stitch is exclusive to Babylock. If you don’t have the ability to do the wave stitch, you could embellish the edges of your serger trim catcher & mat with a three thread overlock.

close up of babylock wave stitch on serger trim catcher & mat
Wave Stitch

Jen’s Serger Trim Catcher & Mat Tutorial

Are you ready to make a serger trim catcher for yourself? Go for it! Click on the link below for the full tutorial. 

Other Resources 

Check out the YouTube video below to learn all about the Babylock Wave Stitch.

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