Projects Made From Purchased Patterns Archives - Page 2 of 2

Category: Projects Made From Purchased Patterns

Decorative Serged Seams

Posted on May 5, 2020May 5, 2020 by jghuiz

Adding decorative serged seams to your garments is as easy as serging a seam. Just use pretty thread and serge your pattern pieces wrong sides together so the serged seams become exposed on the right side of the garment!

In recent years the inside-out look has become popular. Exposed serged seams can be found in many ready to wear garments. It’s fun to duplicate that look in garments you make yourself.

I made this cute little girl’s dress with a basic serger, long before I had my Babylock Evolution. The dress was made with a soft cotton interlock knit, a wide three thread overlock stitch and Maxi Lock serger thread. The flared skirt panels are very twirly, perfect for the little girl who likes to twirl! This project is proof that you can make great garments with a basic serger. (However it does take a little more work and time because you have to do more testing of your stitches and spend more time threading.)

The Dress – Kwik Sew Pattern K3944

I made this cute dress many years ago, and so the pattern is now out of print. But I searched the internet and found it still for sale on various sites like Etsy. What I liked about this Kwik Sew pattern (besides the cute dress) was that the instructions were written for a serger. As you can see from the pattern envelope, I pretty much made view A exactly as pictured – similar yellowish green fabric, and pink and blue thread. I used a 3 thread wide overlock stitch for all the exposed and internal seams. The sewing machine was only used for top-stitching the elastic casing on the sleeves and neckline. And I did design my own flower for the skirt, instead of making the one included with the pattern.

Here are a few closeup photos of the stitching.

decorative serged seam — Neckline Casing

Notes on Construction

I changed the order of construction to minimize changeovers between the pink and blue thread. I used a shorter than normal stitch length on the exposed seams, making the serger thread more visible. At the time I made this dress I didn’t have any thick decorative thread, so I just used standard serger thread. I did some testing on scraps to determine the best combination of fabric, stitch and thread before beginning the project.

My Flower

I took a long strip of knit and serged both long raw edges with a 3 thread overlock. Then I twisted the strip like you would twist streamer decorations for a party. Then I coiled the strip and glued a piece of fabric to the back to hold it together. I safety pinned it to the dress so it could be removed for washing.

Adding Decorative Serged Seams to Your Garments

I hope you enjoyed my post about adding decorative serged seams to your garments. For another example of decorative serged seams check out my Cozy Sweater Shirt post link below.

Cozy Sweater Shirt – 100% Serger Made

Resources

Kwik Sew has several patterns in its current collection called “Kwik Serge.” These patterns were written for use with a serger. Here is the link: https://mccall.com/kwik-sew/collections/kwik-serge/

Serge and Merge Quilts – Down the Pathway

Posted on March 30, 2020April 1, 2020 by jghuiz

Down the Pathway is a project from the book, Serge and Merge Quilts, by Sharon V. Rotz. As she says in her intro to the project “Have fun displaying your serging talents as you construct a tulip garden with dimensional flowers and leaves.” And I sure did! This quilt was fun to make!

I love my Down the Pathway quilt. It makes me happy! Every time I look at my quilt I think of a beautiful spring day. I serged it with a combination of flatlock, rolled hem and overlock stitches and merged it with traditional quilting on a sewing machine.

Fabric Prep

I chose an ombre purple batik fabric for my tulips and an ombre green batik for my stems, leaves and borders. The ombre fabrics gave me the perfect variety of colors for my tulips, greenery, borders and binding. The bottom border (or ground) was a coordinating green batik. I used a light green batik as the background (sky). The photo shows how I fussy cut my leaves, stems, borders and binding from the green ombre batik.

Create Background

The first step I took in creating the background of this quilt was to serge my “stems” using a flatlock stitch on the fold of the fabric. I serged some stems with the ladder side up and some with the loop side up. I used a variegated Madeira Polyneon thread for my flatlock stitches.

Flatlocking on the fold is a little different than flatlock piecing. By folding the fabric you can place the flatlock stitch in the center of the fabric rather than only on the edge. When you flatlock on the fold, you serge with the loops hanging half off of the fabric, which allows your fabric to lay flat when the stitch is pulled open. I recommend you practice flatlocking on the fold before you begin this part of your project. It takes a little more skill to get a nice even stitch than does flatlock piecing. Flatlock piecing is used to join two pieces of fabric and it is placed on the edge of the fabric. Sharon provides some information about flatlocking on page 16 of her book.

After finishing the flatlock “stems” I added the top and side borders. I did not miter my borders as is instructed in the book. Using a sewing machine, I quilted this piece to the batting/backing along each of the flatlock stems.

Create Tulips

I serged the edges of the tulips using a 3 thread rolled hem stitch with Madeira Polyneon embroidery thread in the upper looper. To create the three dimensional tulips, I gathered the bottoms by hand with a running stitch and a strong thread .

Layout, Fuse and Quilt Greenery and Attach Tulips

After laying out my stems and leaves in a pleasing arrangement, I fused them down with an iron and pressing sheet. The pressing sheet both protected my iron from the fusible web and my thread from the heat of the iron. After fusing, I stitched down the raw edges of the stems and leaves using a sewing machine. I left some leaves 3 dimensional, as it says in book. After finishing the leaves and stems, I hand stitched a tulip at the top of each stem.

Add Bottom Border

I added the bottom border after the tulips and greenery were attached to the batting and backing.

Machine Quilt Borders

I used a swirly leaf pattern for the free motion machine quilting of my borders, as you can see from the back side of my quilt in the photo below.

Add Binding and Finish

I used my rotary cutter and a ruler to trim and square my quilt sandwich before adding binding.

I chose to use two different parts of the green ombre batik fabric for my binding. The light colored green was the perfect choice for the top and right edge binding. And I used the darker green for left and bottom binding.

To finish the quilt, I added a hanging sleeve, which you can see pinned on the right side of the photo.

All done!

Down the Pathway Details

I included a few close up photos of the tulips, leaves and background flatlock stitching so you can better see the details.

Down the Pathway Class

I taught this as a class at my local fabric store. The class covered only the serger portion of the project (flatlocking, overlocking and rolled hem). Students did the rest on their own at home. A few of the students allowed me to share photos of their Down the Pathway quilts. Aren’t they beautiful. Spring is in the air!

A Few Final Words

It’s never too late to change something. After I finished the quilt, I stepped back to admire it from a distance. Everything looked great except one area of the background. My eyes kept being drawn to an area of the background that was a too dense with flatlock stems. I ended up removing one stem of flatlock stitches, and now I think it’s perfect! Can you spot the change?

Serge and Merge Quilts – Down the Pathway

The book, Serge & Merge Quilts was published back in 2009. After eleven years, it may be unavailable from your local store. If you can’t find a copy at the store, try the internet.

In case you would like to learn more about the author and Serge and Merge Quilts – Down the Pathway, here is a link to Sharon’s blog post. http://sharonrotz.blogspot.com/2013/04/tulips-springing-up.html

The Down the Pathway quilt is just one of several projects I have completed from Sharon’s book, which I will share with you in the future. I hope you enjoyed this post!

Flatlock Piecing With a Serger

Posted on March 24, 2020October 21, 2020 by jghuiz

It’s still March and National Quilting Month, so here I am highlighting another way to use a serger to quilt. Flatlock piecing with a serger is a great way to add an artistic flair to your quilts. With a serger flatlock stitch, you are embellishing your quilt with decorative thread as you piece it together. The photos in this post are of my Four Square Table Runner that I made in 2014. This table runner is one of my favorite serger quilts I have made!

My Four Square Table Runner

My table runner is a great example of how easy it is to modify a traditional quilt pattern for serger construction.

Fabric, Pattern and Thread

I used a package of forty 5” squares called Tonga Treats by Timeless Treasures. The “Four Square Table Runner” pattern came free in the package. I don’t know if this fabric is still available, but you can do this technique with any fabric or quilt pattern.

I used a variegated purple YLI machine quilting thread in the needle and Maxilock serger thread in the loopers.

Serging

I followed most of the pattern instructions to make the quilt top, except for using a sewing machine. Instead, I pieced the quilt together with my serger using a three thread flatlock stitch with a length of 2. I serged the pieces right sides together, so the “ladder” side showed after pulling the flatlock stitches open.

I added a border, which I also attached with the flatlock stitch. Instead of a traditional quilt sandwich, I used a flannel fabric as batting. and attached the backing using the pillowcase or “birthing” method (without binding). I serged the layers together leaving an opening for turning right sides out. After turning and pressing, I hand stitched the opening closed and hand tacked the layers together invisibly at the corners of the blocks. I wanted the decorative thread and the flatlock stitching to be the center of attention.

What is a Serger Flatlock Stitch?

A flatlock stitch can be used to seam two fabrics together and to add detail to a seam line. It has unbalanced tensions that allow you to pull open the seam so it lays flat. Typically the needle thread tension is very loose and the lower looper tension is tight. The flatlock stitch is also reversible. It forms a “loop” stitch on one side of the fabric and a “ladder” stitch on the other side of the fabric. If you serge a seam with the fabrics right sides together, you will end up with a ladder stitch on the right side. The “ladder” you see is the needle thread. If you serge a seam with the fabric wrong sides together you will end up with a “loop” stitch on the right side. The “loop” you see is the looper thread. The example below show the ladder and the loop sides of two maple leaf quilt blocks that I made when I was practicing flatlocking.

What is Serger Flatlock Piecing?

When you sew your pieces together to form a quilt block, it is referred to as “piecing”. When you piece with a sewing machine the stitches made by a sewing machine are hidden within the seam. Flatlock piecing with a serger is piecing your quilt blocks together with a flatlock stitch. The stitch used in flatlock seams is very visible in the finished quilt. You can use the standard serger presser foot for this technique.

Video – Flatlock Piecing With a Serger

For all you visual learners out there I created this short video of the flatlock stitch in action. https://overtheedge.blog/videos/flatlock-piecing-with-a-serger/

How to Easily Remove a Three Thread Flatlock Seam

Tips for Flatlock Piecing With a Serger

Follow the instructions in your manual for setting your serger up for a flatlock stitch. There are different types of flatlock stitches (2 or 3 thread, wide or narrow). I typically use a three thread flatlock for piecing quilts.
For piecing a quilt with a flatlock stitch, I keep the blade engaged and run the raw edge of my fabric along the blade. I don’t really cut anything off, I just trim stray threads.
Always test your serger set-up on a scrap of fabric and adjust as needed, before you begin serging your actual project. The actual tension settings and stitch length needed will vary with different threads and fabrics.
Leave a few inches of thread tail at the end of each seam. By leaving long tails you will prevent your seams from unraveling until you have a chance to secure them.
Press your flatlock seams flat before pulling them open. I feel it helps the fabric within the seam fold properly during the opening process. After pulling the seams open, I press them again.
Your finished blocks may be a little larger than they would be using a sewing machine. The process of opening of the seam allowance changes the size of the seam allowance slightly.
I use the three thread flatlock stitch in smaller projects like table runners and wall hangings. Flatlock stitches are more exposed and tend to snag more easily, so I don’t typically use this stitch for quilts that will get a lot of wear.
Set your iron temperature appropriately for the thread you use in your flatlock stitch, or use a press cloth. Since the thread sits on the surface of your fabric it has more exposure to the heat of the iron. It is possible to melt the thread in your serger stitches – I know from personal experience!

Are you Inspired?

I hope you enjoyed this post and are inspired to try flatlock piecing with a serger.

National Quilting Month: Texture Quilting with your Serger

Posted on March 3, 2020March 3, 2020 by jghuiz

March is National Quilting Month and is the perfect month for me to blog about quilting with your serger. Texture Quilting with your Serger is about stepping out of your comfort zone and experimenting with all your serger can do.

My Inspiration

My quilt is made up of all 15 different technique blocks from the book Power Serge, by Pam Damour and Betty Mitchell. I love all the texture that the serger adds to the quilt. To make all 15 blocks you must have a few accessory feet and be able to do both overlock and coverstitch. If your serger does overlock only, there are 7 technique blocks that you can serge. The blocks can be used to make a reference book of techniques or make a project. The book has a section called “all squared away” where they give instructions for quilts, table runners and pillows made from the technique blocks.

My Textured Block Quilt

Instead of placing my block on point like the quilt projects in the book, I chose a traditional layout with sashing. The blocks were trimmed to 6.5” square and assembled into 3 columns and 5 rows. I cut 2” wide sashing strips to use between my blocks and as a border. The overall size of my wall hanging quilt is approximately 24” x 39”. I used the four thread overlock stitch on my serger to piece the quilt top together.

Some of my favorite blocks to make were the serger lace, the basket weave, the ric rac rope and the stitch and scrunch.

All Squared Away Class

I taught a class at my local fabric store using the overlock technique blocks from the Power Serge book. Below are photos of some of the blocks made by my students. It’s amazing how different they all look! My student’s favorite blocks to serge were the serger lace and the decorative trim block with the beads.

In Conclusion

Are you looking to expand your horizons and to better utilize your serger? If so, I recommend you get yourself a copy of the book, Power Serge, and get serging! If you can’t find the book at your local sewing or quilting store, you can purchase it directly from the author’s website at https://www.pamdamour.com/product/power-serge-by-pam-damour-and-betty-mitchell-hard-cover-book/

The block techniques are a great place to begin, but this book has much more to offer. Also included in Power Serge is a section of great finishes, clutches and covers, all squared away and just for fun. I will definitely be making more projects from this book.

What do you get when you combine serging with embroidery? Serge-Broidery!

Posted on February 12, 2020February 12, 2020 by jghuiz

Did you know that February is National Embroidery Month? I thought this would be the perfect time to share with you the sewing tote project I made using both my serger and my embroidery machine. I used the pattern “Serge-Broidery Sewing Tote” by Sue Overy Designs. https://sueoverydesigns.com/product/sewing-tote-serge-broidery/

About the Tote:

When I teach serger classes, I use this tote to carry my supplies. It has an interior pocket that I use for patterns or fabric, and an outside clear vinyl pocket with a zipper that I use for accessories such as feet and tweezers. I really like being able to see my accessories through the clear vinyl pocket! The only part of the pattern I wasn’t crazy about was the bamboo handle. So I made a fabric handle instead.

Machine Embroidered Details:

All of the embroidery designs I used on this tote were included with the pattern. I began by stitching the serger design near the center front of the tote. Then after finishing the flatlock piecing of the front panel, I embroidered the dress form applique on the front lower right corner. Finally, the needle was embroidered on the flap after chain stitching the “thread”.

Serger Details:

The tote features decorative thread and four serger stitches – flatlock, cover stitch, chain stitch and four thread overlock.

For my decorative thread, I chose metallic Madeira 12 wt. Glamour to give my serger stitches a little sparkle. Using a flatlock stitch, I pieced together the fabric for the front of the tote. I installed the zipper on the clear vinyl pocket on the back using the cover stitch, along with a cording foot. I also used the cover stitch in combination with the belt loop binder attachment to make the handle. The “thread” that goes through the needle on the flap is a clever use of the chain stitch. The four thread overlock stitch was used to finish constructing the tote.

If you are interested in utilizing different stitches and techniques on your serger, this would be a good project for you.

Isn’t this project tote-ally cute!

Cozy Sweater Shirt – 100% Serger Made

Posted on February 5, 2020February 12, 2020 by jghuiz

I introduce to you, the cozy sweater shirt – 100% serger made – no sewing machine required.

Because I love my serger, I am always looking for more ways to use it. I wanted to make a top that could be completely constructed on my serger without the use of a sewing machine. When I saw Simplicity 8988, I knew that this pattern would be a great starting point for my cozy sweater shirt. The exposed seams down the center front and back were perfect for showcasing serger stitching with decorative thread.

How I Changed the Pattern to Serge my Cozy Sweater Shirt:

Simplicity 8988 was written for a sewing machine, but I easily adapted it for serger construction and embellishment utilizing both overlock and cover stitches. If your serger is not capable of chain stitch or cover stitch you could still make this cozy sweater shirt. You would just need to substitute your sewing machine for the steps that include chain stitch or cover stitch.

To adapt a pattern for serging, all you need to do is to group similar stitch types as much as possible. Most sewing patterns are not optimized for serger construction. If you follow the pattern as written, you will find yourself converting back and forth between serger stitches. For some sergers, this conversion can be a time consuming process. I feel very fortunate to own a Babylock Evolution serger because converting between stitch types is easy!

Four Thread Overlock:

I began by grouping all of the 4 thread overlock operations together. I serge finished the raw edges of the exposed seams and neck edges with decorative Madeira Lana thread. The shoulder seams and the raw edges of the interior seams were serged with Maxilock Stretch thread.

Chain Stitch:

Next I converted my serger to the chain stitch to sew the center front and back seams and the upper sleeve seams.

Wide Cover Stitch:

Then I switched to a wide cover stitch and stitched down the center of the exposed front and back seams and the upper sleeve seams. The cover stitch helps to keep the seams partially open during wearing so the cool serger stitching always shows.

The wide cover stitch was also used for the bottom hem and the sleeve hems. I turned the hems to the inside and serged so that the looper thread showed on the right side of the top. These hems were finished before closing the side seams. It is much easier to cover stitch flat than in the round.

The belt loop binder attachment along with the wide cover stitch was used to make the ties.

Chain Stitch:

The last serger conversion was back to the chain stitch to sew up the side seams, finish the neck hem, and make the channels for the ties. After inserting the ties, my cozy sweater shirt was ready to wear!

I hope this post inspired you to serge!

My “Cookin in Color Serger” Apron

Posted on January 28, 2020February 12, 2020 by jghuiz

I had been eyeing this cute cherry print fabric for some time. One day at work I noticed the fabric was almost gone. Thinking to myself, “it’s now or never,” I bought the small piece of fabric that was left on the bolt. There it sat in my stash, patiently waiting for the perfect project to come along. And along it did. The pink cherry print fabric graduated from stash to apron. :)

The Pattern

Sue O’Very’s pattern, Cookin in Color Serger Apron, is designed for serger construction. Throughout the pattern, you learn to serge with different techniques, feet and attachments, and the end result is a fun color-blocked apron. For me this pattern was definitely worth making. Now that I have serged my apron, I can say that cooking in my kitchen has never been so colorful!

Highlights of Serging with this Pattern

Applying the pocket zipper using a serger cording foot. What a great way to install a zipper!
Creating the hanging loop using the belt loop binder attachment. I love the belt loop binder, and I will definitely share more with you in future posts.
Embellishing the waistband and ties with Babylock’s exclusive wave stitch. With the right thread, this stitch is gorgeous!

Time to Inspire You

I love to learn new things, don’t you? Would you like to learn to better use your serger? Do you already own the feet and attachments needed for this project? Are you willing to invest in a few feet or attachments to better broaden your serging horizons? If you answered yes to any of these questions, this pattern may be for you. The more you do with your serger, the more skilled you will become.

“Success is a journey, not a destination. The doing is often more important than the outcome. ” – Arthur Ashe

Where to Get More Information About the Pattern

Did my apron inspire you to learn more? Check out the apron tutorial at sueoverydesigns:

https://sueoverydesigns.com/make-serger-apron-zipper-pocket/

Get your own copy of Sue O’Very Designs “Cookin in Color Serger Apron” pattern:

https://sueoverydesigns.com/product/cookin-in-color-serger-apron/