over the edge

How to Serge a Maternity Top Using a Sewing Pattern

Posted on January 19, 2021January 20, 2021 by jghuiz

I have exciting news – I am going to be a grandma! My serger will be busy this year making maternity and baby things. And the first project I have to share with you is a maternity top for my daughter, the mommy to be. Follow along with me and learn about serger presser feet, attachments and techniques as I show you how to serge a maternity top.

The Pattern

For this top I used Burda pattern 6607, View A.

Serger Stitches, Techniques, Presser Feet and Attachments I Used to Serge a Maternity Top

4 thread overlock with standard presser foot for seams
4 thread overlock with standard presser foot for stabilizing shoulder seams with clear elastic
3 thread rolled hem with standard presser foot for thread chain belt loops
2 thread narrow cover stitch with cover stitch foot and fabric guide attachment for neckline hem, sleeve hems and bottom hem

I made this maternity top completely with my serger, but you could substitute a sewing machine twin needle for the hems if you don’t have a cover stitch capable machine.

Prepare Pattern Pieces

I used a super soft, brushed polyester matte jersey for this top. Because it liked to stick to itself, It was a little finicky to layout smoothly for cutting. But my serger handled it well.

Set Up Serger and Test Stitches and Settings

Using the fabric scraps leftover after cutting out my pattern pieces, I tested my stitches and settings. I used Maxi Lock serger thread in the needles and Gutermann Bulky Nylon in the loopers. My stitch settings for the 4 thread overlock were as follows: stitch length 2.5, stitch width M (which is about 6) and differential 1.

⅝” seam allowances

This pattern calls for mostly ⅝” seam allowances. But a typical four thread overlock seam allowance is closer to ¼”-⅜” wide. I just used the knives on my serger to cut off the extra seam allowance. If you notice in the photos below I am lining up the raw edges of fabric with the L marking on my knife cover. On my machine the L marking is ⅝” from the left needle position on a four thread overlock stitch using a stitch width of about 7.5. I serged with a stitch width on M or 6.0, so my seam allowances were a little shy of ⅝”, but that little bit of difference was just fine for this soft stretchy knit.

Order of Construction

The pattern instructions were not written specifically for a serger. So to save time and minimize changeovers between overlock stitches and cover stitches, I altered the order of the steps listed in the pattern. Here’s how I serged together this maternity top.

Serge and Stabilize Shoulder Seams

The first step was to serge the shoulder seams. I stabilized the shoulder seams with a piece of ¼” wide clear elastic. This elastic was originally part of a hanging loop in another garment that I no longer needed. I like to reuse whenever possible.

Stabilize Seams Using a Standard Presser Foot

There is a slot on the standard presser foot for my Baby Lock Evolution which can be used to guide elastic and insert it directly into the seam as I serge. If you don’t have a foot with a slot or guide, you could always baste your elastic in place by hand or with a sewing machine before you run it through your serger.

stabilize shoulder seam with serger standard presser foot

The elastic or twill tape is fed into the slot in the toe of the presser foot from the top. Then it is fed under the foot and out the back along the groove on the underside.

If you look closely at the photos below you will notice that I didn’t insert my elastic correctly when I stabilized the shoulder seams of the maternity top. Somehow I put the clear elastic through the slot from the bottom, over the front of the foot, under the needles and under the back of the foot. I don’t know what I was thinking that day, but at least it worked!

The serger applies the elastic or tape to the side of the seam that is up when you serge. I serged with the back side of the shirt up so the clear elastic would be on the back side of the seam. During later construction steps, I turned the shoulder seams to the back so the elastic ended up next to the wrong side of the fabric instead of my daughters skin. You’ll also notice that the elastic is completely encased in the serger stitches because it’s only ¼” wide. If you are using the standard ⅜” wide clear elastic, some of it will extend past the seam line.

stabilize shoulder seams with clear elastic and serger

Attach Binding/Facing

I cut my binding/facing wider than the pattern instructed. I thought it would be easier to handle. It was easier to handle through the serger, but it created a little bit of a problem later, which I will explain in the hemming step. Notice here that I just skimmed the raw edges of the fabric to neaten them up. The seam allowances at the neckline were only ⅜” so I didn’t need to trim much off.

Attach Sleeves to Front and Back.

Next I pinned and serged both sleeves to the front and back of the top.

Side Seams from Bottom hem to Sleeve hem

Then I serged both side seams and sleeve seams from bottom hem to sleeve hem.

Belt Loop Chain – 3 Thread Rolled Hem

I serged the belt loops before doing the cover stitch hems, because switching from a 4 thread overlock to a 3 thread rolled hem is an easy changeover. The 3 thread rolled hem chain works as well for a delicate belt loop as the hand stitched thread loops as instructed in the pattern. However, I prefer to use my serger to make the belt loop chain. I serged about a yard of rolled hem chain, even though the belt loops only use a few inches each. I set this belt loop chain aside until the last step of this project.

To make a belt loop chain using the 3 thread rolled hem setting on your serger, set up for a standard rolled hem. You will be serging a rolled hem without any fabric. The presser foot should be in the down position or the stitch won’t form properly. Grab the chain behind the foot and gently pull straight back as you serge to keep slight tension on the thread chain. You will need to stop a few times to reposition your hand as you serge the yard of chain.

Hems

I serged all of my hems with a narrow cover stitch using my left and center needles at a stitch length of 4. Since all of my side seams and sleeve seams were completed prior to this step, I serged in the round. If you would like to learn how to finish a cover stitch in the round see my tutorial at https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/finishing-off-a-cover-stitch-in-the-round/

I measured and pinned my hems to the desired depth. Most of the time when I serge I use clips instead of pins. But for 1¼” deep hems like this I like to use pins. Because the knives are disengaged while cover stitching I don’t have to worry about a stray pin causing damage to my knives

Presser Foot and Fabric Guide

When I hem with a cover stitch I like to use my cover stitch foot. You could use a standard presser foot, but the cover stitch foot has good visibility. I also like to use a fabric guide when I cover stitch hems. The guide helps me keep the depth of my hems even as I serge.

Setting up the Fabric Guide

I placed the fabric guide on the bed of the machine and loosely inserted both attachment screws. With the wrong side of the hem facing up, I placed the raw edge of my fabric a little to the left of the left needle and on top of the fabric guide. I positioned the fabric guide so that the raised lip rested against the fold of the fabric. Then I tightened the screws to lock the fabric guide into position.

Bottom Hem

Starting near a side seam, I positioned my bottom hem right side up under the presser foot with the fold up against the fabric guide. I serged all the way around the bottom hem.

Here’s what the top side and underside of the narrow coverstitch hem looks like.

Sleeve Hem

The sleeve hem requires a little more maneuvering in the round because it is much smaller than the bottom hem. I turned my sleeve inside out and serged from the right side of the hem. I serged a little, then stopped to reposition the fabric, and then continued these steps until the hem was complete. You could cover stitch the hems flat before you serge up the side seams if you find this difficult. But then you have an additional changeover between overlock and cover stitch. I opted for less changeovers and completed my sleeve hem in the round.

Neckline Hem

In an earlier step, I told you I made my neckline binding/facing wider than called for in the instructions. Well, when I completed the cover stitching near the folded edge of the neckline, I realized that the facing wanted to flip toward the neckline and stick out. My solution was to add an additional row of cover stitches near the bottom edge of the facing. I love how it turned out! The neckline is much more interesting this way! The first row of cover stitch was stitched with the edge of the neckline aligned with the right edge of the presser foot. I completed the second row of cover stitch with the right edge of the presser foot aligned with the left stitching of the first row of cover stitch.

Attach Belt Loops

The last step of this project was to attach the belt loops for the ribbon belt. Using a hand sewing needle I attached the belt loop chain to the side seams at the marks. My ribbon was wider than the ribbon stated for in the pattern, so I attached my belt loop chain on either side of the marks to accommodate the extra width. I put a knot in the end of my chain before threading my needle. Then I inserted the needle into the seam line from the inside near one marking, pulled the chain though to the right side, inserted the needle near the other marking from the right side and pulled the chain through to the wrong side making a loop. I put a knot in the end of the chain at my desired loop length and cut off the extra chain.

Serge a Maternity Top

Here is a photo of the finished top on my dress form.

Here are a few photos of the maternity top with a “batting baby bump.”

I made it as a store model, so it has to be on display for a month before I can give it to my daughter. I can’t wait to see her and her baby bump wearing it!

Resources

Baby Lock – Stabilize a Shoulder Seam with Serger

https://babylock.com/learn-and-create/inspiration/stabilizing-knits-on-a-serger

Jen’s Serged Ironing Board Cover

Posted on January 3, 2021January 3, 2021 by jghuiz

The next time you need a new ironing board cover you should make your own. But not with your sewing machine. Use your serger! Jen’s serged ironing board cover is a practical project that you can use in your sewing room. Read on below to learn how I serged my ironing board cover, quickly and easily.

Why I Needed a New Ironing Board Cover

My ironing board cover had seen better days. The original cover that came with the board wasn’t high quality, but it seemed to work fine. Recently, I attempted to clean my iron with one of those iron cleaning sheets that look like dryer sheets. I set the sheet down on the ironing board and started gliding the iron back and forth across the sheet. The sheet worked well. The sole plate of the iron came clean, but my ironing board was covered in an oily, waxy residue. I was in a hurry and forgot to put a fabric scrap between my ironing board and the cleaning sheet. I thought maybe I could wash it, but the tag on the cover said do not wash. So it was time to replace it.

Why I Decided to Serge a new Cover

My ironing board is wider and sturdier than most. It is approximately 18” wide and 49” long. My local store sells the wider ironing boards but not the replacement covers. Since I couldn’t find one at the store, and I didn’t want to buy one online, I decided to make my own. I looked closely at how the existing cover was made. The cover was simply a piece of fabric that was serged around the edge with a cord inserted into the serging. When I realized this was a project for my serger, I got excited!

The Retired Cover Construction Details

The photos below show the stitching on the ironing board cover I replaced. The serger stitches not only covered the raw edges of the fabric. They also encased the cord which was used to gather the edges of the cover and tighten it around the metal frame of the ironing board.

The Right Presser Foot is Key

This style of ironing board cover needs to be gathered in order for it to fit securely around the ironing board. But using a ruffling foot or gathering foot wouldn’t work well for this project. What I needed to make this a quick and easy job was my serger’s elastic foot. Even though it is called an elastic foot, I didn’t use it to serge any elastic. There is another feature of this foot that makes it perfect for serging an ironing board cover. It has two guide holes on the top of the foot and a channel on the bottom of the foot sized for thin cord. The foot positions the cord so it nestles perfectly within the upper looper thread of the three thread overlock stitch. When you use this foot you don’t have to worry about accidently stitching through the cord.

In addition to inserting elastic into a seam, some other uses for this foot include making wire edged ribbon, fishing line rolled hems and gathering heavier weight fabrics.

Different brand of sergers have different types of feet. Your elastic foot might not have the same features as mine. So check to see which foot is available for your serger that can guide thin cord, wire or fishing line into the stitches.

The photo below shows ironing board fabric that has been gathered by pulling the cord that was inserted into the stitches using a serger elastic foot.

How to Serge an Ironing Board Cover with an Elastic Foot Tutorial and Video

If you’d like to make your own ironing board cover check out my tutorial and video links:

Tutorial: https://overtheedge.blog/how-to-serge-an-ironing-board-cover-tutorial/

Video: https://youtu.be/j8stKXTvEeQ

how to serge and ironing board cover with an elastic foot

Jen’s Serged Ironing Board Cover

I hope you enjoyed this post and are inspired to make your own serged ironing board cover.

Holiday Serging with Jen

Posted on December 23, 2020December 23, 2020 by jghuiz

As I started pulling together ideas for this blog post, I realized I did quite a few holiday serging projects this year. I thought it would be fun to share my projects with you. Hopefully, Holiday Serging with Jen, will inspire you to try some future holiday serging of your own.

If you’ve been following my blog you’ve probably noticed that I always find ways to incorporate the use of my serger into my projects. For the holidays this year I made stockings, a tree skirt, gift wrap, an apron, some potholders, ornaments and a quilt, all using my serger. Some of these projects were made with only a serger, while others utilized a serger and maybe a sewing machine or some hand sewing.

Christmas Tree Skirt

Does this tree skirt look familiar to you? In case you didn’t recognize it, it’s also my watermelon patio table topper I made with my serger that I blogged about this past summer. It fits around the umbrella post on my patio table.

We purchased an artificial Christmas tree this year, and I didn’t have a tree skirt to fit it. Since my table topper is basically a tree skirt in disguise, why not use it as my Christmas tree skirt too? It was actually my husband’s idea. It’s the perfect size for my new tree and the red and green fabrics I used in the tree skirt are from a Patrick Lose’s Christmas collection.

The watermelon design was my own, but I followed the basic tree skirt assembly instructions from the free pattern that came with my wedge ruler. I have a Ten Degree Wedge Ruler from Phillips Fiber Arts. This company has several patterns available that utilize the wedge rulers. See the resources section at bottom of this post for a link to the website.

I used a serger four thread overlock stitch to piece together the topper and I used a serger double fold bias binder to bind the circular edges. Here is a link to my tutorial if you would like more information on how to bind the edge of a quilt with a serger double fold bias binder.

Bind a Quilt with a Serger Double Fold Bias Binder

Stockings

When I pulled my old stockings out of storage, I realized how tattered they looked. It was time to retire them. For the new stockings I chose mostly bright red and green fabrics that coordinate with my watermelon tree skirt. The serger technique I used to make my stockings came from the book, Ready Set Serge, by Georgie Melot. I didn’t use Georgie’s pattern for the stocking shape because I already had a favorite stocking shape. I used the stocking shape from the pattern, Stocking Sweet Stocking, by Bean Counter Quilts.

Many years ago a customer brought in some beautiful quilted stockings to the store where I work. I loved the shape of her stockings, so I asked her what pattern she used. It was the Stocking Sweet Stocking pattern. I’ve never made the quilted twister stocking, but I’ve made many serger stockings using that pattern for the shape.

I used a four thread overlock to construct most of the stocking. Using a sewing machine, I top stitched the hanging loop and basted the layers together before serging around the stocking. Georgie Melot doesn’t use batting or tell you to baste the layers before serging, but I found the fabrics shifted less as I serged if I first basted the layers. If layers shift when you baste, no big deal. You simply take out the stitches and try again. If they shift while you are serging (and cutting) it’s much harder to fix. Plus, I like how the serging compresses the layers to make the seams flatter in the stocking.

Batting or no Batting?

I made one stocking with batting and one without batting so I could compare both methods. Both stockings turned out well. But I prefer the stability of the stockings with the batting. I used a thin sew in fleece batting by Pellon, but many other battings would work too. You can see in the photo below that the stocking without batting is a little floppy. The stocking with batting holds its shape.

Fabric Gift Wrap

Fabric gift wrap is beautiful and can be used over and over again. I’ve been using fabric gift wrap for many years. The serger is a perfect tool for finishing the raw edges of your fabri gift wrap edges quickly and neatly. You can simply serge the edges of a piece of fabric just like you would with a cloth napkin and use it like wrapping paper. Or you can create a variety of gift bags with your serger. Check out my blog post and tutorial on serger made fabric gift wrap.

How to Make Fabric Gift Wrap with a Serger

Beautifully Wrapped Gifts Made Simple with a Serger

Apron

Every year at our store we make holiday aprons to display. This was my apron for 2020 and it was based on Kwik Sew pattern 4284.

I applied all of the binding on the apron using my 36mm double fold bias binder and a serger chain stitch. I used the same set up to apply the binding to my apron as I did for my watermelon tree skirt. Here are the links in case you would like to learn more.

How to use a Serger Double Fold Bias Binder Video

Serger Double Fold Bias Binder Tutorial

Pot Holders

These potholders were a bonus project made with the leftover fabric from my apron. For the one on the left I made my own quilted fabric with my sewing machine. Then I used cotton thread with a three thread overlock wide and a small stitch length (can’t remember how small) and serged the edge. The one on the right was made by layering the fabrics and serging around the circle with a four thread overlock. Then I flipped the finger pockets over to conceal the serger stitches. The hanging loops were made from leftover bias fabric strips from the apron and the serger 36mm double fold bias binder.

Ornaments

These ornaments all began with a folded piece of fabric, which I quickly and easily made with the cover stitch on my Baby Lock Evolution and the belt loop binder or double fold bias binder. Then I grabbed my hand sewing needle and combined the fabric “ribbons” with beads to make the ornaments. Your choice of fabric will determine whether your ornaments are fun and whimsical or lovely and elegant.

Check out my blog post about experimenting with your serger to make the best fabric ribbons for ornaments:

How to Make Tree Ornaments Using a Serger

and my tutorial for more information on making your own ribbon candy ornaments using your serger

https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/ribbon-candy-tree-ornament-tutorial-for-sergers/

Quilt

At the store this past spring most of the clerks participated in a fun activity for National Quilting Month. We created our own quilt patterns using only a layer cake for the fabric. Then we taught a class based on our designs. I called my quilt design, Forty Two Ten by Jen. Of course I had to use my serger to make my half square triangles (but you could also make it on a sewing machine.)

I also had a christmas layer cake, Jingle by Deb Strain of Moda, that I wanted to use. So I made a bunch of half square triangles with my serger and pieced them together to make this throw quilt for the holidays.

I considered three different layouts for the half square triangles in my holiday quilt. The winning layout was the friendship star in figure 3. But the giant flying geese in figure 2 was a close second. I finished piecing the quilt top earlier this year, but the layering and quilting will need to wait until next year…

Here is the link to my quilt tutorial for Forty Two Ten by Jen and my serger half square triangle video if you would like to give it a try:

Forty Two Ten By Jen Serger Quilt Tutorial

Holiday Serging with Jen

I hope you enjoyed learning about the many ways I used my serger this holiday season. Happy Holidays and Happy Serging! – Jen

Resources

Stocking pattern used by Jen: http://www.beancounterquilts.com/

Wedge ruler for Jen’s tree skirt: https://www.phillipsfiberart.com/shop/-FREE-FREE-FREE-/p/A-Ten-Degree-Free-Patternthe-one-that-used-to-be-on-the-backing-card-x12926655.htm

How to Make Tree Ornaments Using a Serger

Posted on December 1, 2020December 2, 2020 by jghuiz

How to Make Tree Ornaments Using a Serger

I’m always looking for new things to make with my serger and its attachments. And the holidays always bring out my creative side. As I was searching the internet for inspiration, I came across posts by Sara Gallegos of the Decorative Stitch and Mathew Boudreaux of Mister Domestic, which inspired me to create my Ribbon Candy Tree Ornaments Tutorial. (Links to their posts are in the Resources section at the bottom of the post). Sara followed Mathew’s strip tree ornament tutorial, but instead of using a sewing machine to create the fabric strips, she used her Baby Lock serger and the small belt loop binder attachment.

After reading about the process they used to make their tree ornaments, I decided to experiment with my serger and design my own ornaments. These ornaments all begin with a folded piece of fabric, which can be quickly and easily made with the right serger attachment. I own three different attachments for my Baby Lock serger that all fold the fabric and stitch it together in one step, so I tested all three attachments using both bias and cross grain fabric strips. I also tested the effect of adding interfacing to the fabric strips. This ornament project is a great way to practice using your attachments. Keep reading to learn how to make tree ornaments using a serger.

My Experiments with Making Fabric Ribbons Using a Serger

Using quilting weight cotton fabric I made fabric “ribbons” using three different attachments that I have for my serger. All three attachments are meant to be used with a cover stitch and fold under the raw edges of the strips to conceal them within the fabric and/or stitching. I used a wide cover stitch for the large belt loop attachment and a narrow cover stitch for both the smaller belt loop binder and the double fold bias binder. I tried each attachment with both crosswise grain and bias grain fabric strips. The red strips in the photo below are bias grain strips and the blue ones are cross grain.

I also experimented with different stitch lengths. The blue belt loop was serged at a stitch length of 2. the green at a stitch length of 2.5 and the red at at stitch length of 3. See photo below. At stitch lengths less than 3 on my Baby Lock serger you lose the ability to chain off with the cover stitch, but the shorter stitch lengths cover the raw edges better. I used embroidery thread in the needles and wooly nylon in the looper for better coverage of fabric raw edges.

Serger Attachments

Belt Loop Folder/Binder Attachment

Baby Lock makes two different sizes of belt loop binders – 1½” and ¾”. The larger one makes finished belt loop strips that are about ¾” wide. The smaller one makes finished belt loop strips that are about ⅜” wide. The fabric is folded once and therefore the finished strips have two layers of fabric. There is a link to my belt loop binder tutorial in the Resources section at the bottom of this post if you would like more information about this attachment.

36 mm Double Fold Bias Binder Attachment

A serger double fold bias binder attachment can also be used to make finished binding strips that work well for making ornaments. This attachment makes finished binding that is about ⅜” wide. Since these strips are folded twice, there are four layers of fabric in the finished binding strip.

Normally when using this attachment to bind an edge you have to guide both the binding strip and the fabric you are binding. But for making fabric ribbons for ornaments you only have to guide one piece of fabric because you are not attaching the binding to anything.

There is a link to my double fold bias binder tutorial in the Resources section at the bottom of my post if you would like more information about this attachment.

Fabric Grain and Strip Width

Can you use Both Cross Grain and Bias Fabric Strips in the Attachments?

Both crosswise grain fabric strips and bias fabric strips will work in the belt loop binder attachment and the double fold bias binder attachment. But you may need to adjust the width of the cut fabric strips for best results depending on whether you use cross grain or bias layout. Interestingly, I found that the cut strip width recommended in the instructions worked well for the crosswise grain strips, but not so well for the bias cut strips. For me the bias cut strips folded better when I added another ⅛” to the width of the cut strip.

The chart below lists the best cut strip widths for the quilting cotton fabric I used in this comparison:

Attachment	Grain	Cut Strip Width
1½” Belt Loop Binder	Crosswise	1⅝”
1½” Belt Loop Binder	Bias	1¾”
¾” Belt Loop Binder	Crosswise	⅞”
¾” Belt Loop Binder	Bias	1”
36mm Double Fold Bias Binder	Crosswise	1⅜”
36mm Double Fold Bias Binder	Bias	1½”

Which Grain Makes the Best Ornament?

The fabric strips I use for weaving work well on the cross grain because weaving is done in a straight line. However, for the ornaments, I think the bias fabric strips work better because of the curves. The loops of the ornaments look smoother using bias fabric strips. See photo below for a comparison. The tree ornament on the left was made using a crosswise grain belt loop strip and the ornament on the right was made using a bias belt loop strip. The curves of the cross grain loops tend to slightly buckle. The curves of the bias grain loops are much smoother. So although I prefer to use the bias belt loop strips for my ornaments, the cross grain strips will work. So should you use cross grain fabric strips that are easier to cut or bias strips make a smoother curve? The decision is yours.

With or Without Interfacing?

Both Sara and Mathew used interfacing in the fabric ribbons they used to make their ornaments. I experimented with using interfacing on a crossgrain strip for the 1½” belt loop binder.

The first strip I serged without interfacing (red). The second strip I added a strip of light weight fusible interfacing to the strip (green). I fused a ⅝” wide piece of interfacing to the center of the wrong side of my fabric strip. I made my interfacing ⅛” smaller than the finished width of the belt loop, so the edges were not too stiff for proper folding.

Sara used a stabilizer in her example. She did not pre fuse it to the fabric. She fed it into the attachment as she was feeding in the fabric. I tried this method a few times and couldn’t get the hang of it it. So I decided to fuse the interfacing to the fabric before I fed it into the attachment.

The bias belt loops I used in the ornaments seemed to hold their shape fine, so I didn’t feel the need to add interfacing.

I made a tree ornament from both strips to compare the results. The loops on the green tree are more stable with the interfacing added. The loops on the red tree ornament without interfacing are softer and more prone to bending. So both methods of making belt loop fabric will work. You will get a sturdier ornament with the interfacing and a softer one without it.

Tips for Success Using Fabric Strips in a Serger Attachments

Press Seams Open

Make sure that seams in the fabric strip are pressed open and stay open when feeding into the attachment. When the seam allowances flip together, those areas may be too thick for the attachment to fold the fabric properly.

Minimize Number of Seam Allowances

Make your bias fabric strips from large pieces of fabric with as few seams as possible. The more seams in your bias strips, the more chances for them to flip the wrong way and cause “blips” in your perfectly folded belt loops. This is also true of seam allowances in cross grain fabric strips.

Avoid Intersecting Seams

The attachment can easily fold one pressed open seam.

But not two intersecting seams. You will always be disappointed with the folding results of intersecting seams in your belt loop fabric. The attachment just can’t fold the extra thick areas nicely. See example below where two perpendicular seams in the bias fabric strip come together and see how the attachment can’t fold it under.

Raw Edges Not Being Caught in the Stitches

If your raw edges are not catching in the stitches there are a couple of reasons why that might be happening.

Check the Width of your Fabric Strip

It could be that your strip isn’t wide enough. Different fabrics and even different grains within the same fabric can fold differently. The initial bias strips that I cut at 1⅝” wide (per the instructions) and fed into the belt loop binder weren’t wide enough to always catch the raw edges in the stitching. So I cut my bias fabric strips a little bit wider to 1¾” (just an extra ⅛”) and the problem went away. The cross grain strips cut at 1⅝” folded well as they went through the attachment.

Check the Placement of your Attachment

Not having the needles centered within the fabric strip can lead to raw edges on the back not being caught by the stitches. You should test your attachment line up and adjust as necessary.

Pay Attention to the Fabric Strip as it Feeds into the Attachment

How the fabric is fed into the attachment can affect whether or not the raw edges get folded under properly and captured within the stitches. Make certain your fabric strips are feeding into the attachment smoothly and evenly, centered within the feeding slot on the attachment. Pay special attention to the pressed open seam allowances to make certain they don’t flip as they enter the attachment.

Fabric Buckles and Folds

If the fabric strip is too wide to fold properly, it will buckle, fold and twist as it is folded within the attachment and stitched. The direction of grain in the strips, as well as the properties of the fabric itself can make a difference in the “right” width, so you may need to experiment to get your strips looking their best. In the photo above, there are two double fold bias binding strips, both cut on the cross grain of the fabric. The green one was cut at 1½” wide and was just a little too wide for the attachment, and it buckled, folded and twisted as it went through the attachment. And those folds and twists were stitched right into the strip. The blue one was cut at 1⅜” wide, and folded well in the attachment to create a nice smooth strip.

In Conclusion

All above methods of making fabric “ribbons” on a serger yielded good results for making ribbon candy tree ornaments. If you prefer the look of an ornament made from ⅜” wide fabric ribbons then I would use the smaller belt loop binder or the double fold bias binder. If you prefer the look of an ornament made from the ¾” wide fabric ribbons then I would use the 1½” belt loop binder.

Get My Instructions for Making Ribbon Candy Tree Ornaments

For my Ribbon Candy Tree Ornament Tutorial, I chose to use the bias fabric ribbons without interfacing made with my 1½” belt loop binder attachment. I wanted to make “large” ornaments which I thought worked best with the larger ribbon produced by this attachment. I created my own version of three different ornament shapes – a tree, an icicle and a piece of ribbon candy – and have shared my instructions with you in my Ribbon Candy Tree Ornament Tutorial for Sergers. Here is the link: https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/ribbon-candy-tree-ornament-tutorial-for-sergers/

Feel free to experiment and find your favorite combination. I hope you enjoyed learning about how to make tree ornaments with your serger. I would love to see the ornaments that you create!

Resources

Ribbon Candy Tree Ornament Tutorial for Sergers

My tutorial on using a serger belt loop binder – https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/how-to-use-a-serger-belt-loop-binder-to-make-folded-fabric-strips-for-weaving/

My tutorial on using a serger double fold bias binder – https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/serger-double-fold-bias-binder-tutorial/

How to Make your own Continuous Bias Binding – https://sew4home.com/how-to-make-your-own-continuous-bias-binding/

Let’s Make a Serger Christmas Ornament post by Sara Gallegos of The Decorative Stitch – https://www.decorativestitch.com/lets-make-a-serger-christmas-ornament.htm

Strip Tree Ornament post by Mathew Boudreaux of Mister Domestic – https://misterdomestic.com/2017/11/20/strip-tree-ornament-ornament-along-8/

Beautifully Wrapped Gifts Made Simple with a Serger

Posted on November 19, 2020November 19, 2020 by jghuiz

Beautifully Wrapped Gifts Made Simple with a Serger

I’ve been using fabric gift wrap for many, many years. Fabric gift wrap is beautiful, and it can be used over and over again. I use it for all occasions – birthdays, showers, holidays, etc. Fabric gift wrap is quick and easy to make using your serger. Read on below to learn all about beautifully wrapped gifts made simple with a serger.

Benefits to using Fabric to Wrap your Gifts

Benefits to using fabric to wrap your gifts:

Save some trees – fabric gift wrap is reusable
Make it from almost any fabric
Great scrap buster – think of all those leftover odd sized pieces you can turn into gift wrap
Make it in any size
Make the fabric gift wrap part of the gift
Perfect reason to use your serger!

Simple Serger Made Fabric Gift Wrap

Let me introduce you to six quick and easy fabric gift wrap projects I have created using a serger. Click on the link near the end of the post to get the instructions to serge your own fabric gift wrap.

1. Wrapping Scarf

The wrapping scarf has been around for a long time. It was my first experiment with fabric gift wrap. Inspired by a book I saw at the store, I bought the book and started making fabric wrapping scarves from my leftover costume satins. Making fabric gift wrap was a double benefit for me. The first benefit was that I was able to make use of leftover fabrics from other projects taking up room in my stash. The second benefit was that the gift wrap was reusable and I no longer filled my trash with piles of paper gift wrap.

With it’s exposed serger stitching, the the wrapping scarf is the perfect project for highlighting decorative threads. You can make it from one reversible fabric which is more economical, or two fabrics, which is more colorful. My favorite wrapping scarves are made from flowy satins and shimmery organzas and chiffons. To secure a wrapping scarf around the gift, tie the ends of the fabric in loose knots, or get creative with added accessories like ribbons, buttons, and more.

2. Simple Serged Gift Bag

A simple gift bag serged from a beautiful fabric will make a gift more special. I made the gift bag in the photo below from sparkle organza, which I thought looked great with the metallic silver box I put inside. This gift bag features exposed serger stitches and ribbon ties that are serged right into the seams so they can’t be misplaced. Although this gift bag is flat, it would be easy to give it more shape by boxing out the corners.

3. Gift Card Envelope

Gift cards have become pretty popular as gifts. Wrap them up in a fabric envelope to make the gift card more special. You could even decorate your tree with these cute little presents. Expose your serger seams and have fun with decorative threads with this gift wrap. And serge the ribbon tie right into the seam to make wrapping the gift card quick and easy.

4. DVD/Book Gift Bag

This flat fabric bag works great for wrapping a book or DVD. This project is quick and easy and features exposed seams and an attached ribbon tie.

5. Petal Pouch

This cute little fabric pouch is great for wrapping small gifts or jewelry. Show off a pretty decorative thread in the exposed serger stitches on the edges of the petals. Sew the casings for the ribbon closure with a sewing machine or chain stitch on a serger.

6. Drawstring Bag with Ruffle

This is a dressed up version of the standard fabric gift bag. It showcases three different fabrics and has a drawstring closure with a ruffle. The serged seams are on the inside of the bag and not exposed.

How to Make Fabric Gift Wrap with a Serger

Are you ready to try serging your own fabric gift wrap? If the answer is yes, then be sure to click on the link below to visit my tutorial, How to Make Fabric Gift Wrap with a Serger.

https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/make-fabric-gift-wrap-with-a-serger/

how to make fabric gift wrap with a serger

I hope you were inspired by my post, Beautifully wrapped gifts made simple with a serger.

Resources

Wrapping Scarves book – The Wrapping Scarf Revolution by Patricia Lee. https://www.amazon.com/Wrapping-Scarf-Revolution-Earth-Friendly-Change/dp/1574861069 Here’s one site where you can buy the book. It was published in 2009, so if you can’t find a new one, you should be able to find a used copy on the internet.

How to Make Fabric Gift Wrap with a Serger

How to Make a Witch Hat with Serger Crochet

Posted on October 21, 2020October 27, 2020 by jghuiz

Did you know you can “crochet” with your serger? Some people call it serger crochet, while others refer to it as serger thread lace. The technique involves serging “on air” with just thread and no fabric. The project is an elegant Halloween centerpiece project designed by Joan Friedrich. Follow along with me as I show you how to make a witch hat with serger crochet.

I’ve done serger crochet before, but nothing quite as dramatic as this witch hat. It was easy to do using my Baby Lock serger. However, it is not a quick project to “crochet” the lacy brim. (To actually crochet it by hand would have taken me a lot longer!) My witch hat appears to have a lot more ruffling than the hat in the project instructions. I love it that way because all of the ruffles can be shaped to look like flowers.

It’s been one of those projects that’s been on my to do list for a long time. It always feels great to check something off a to do list! It’s a free project on Baby Lock’s website. You will find the link to the project in the Resources section at the bottom of this post.

Making the Hat Pattern

We all love free projects, right? But sometimes with free projects the instructions aren’t always very detailed. Which is the case with the free project for the Serger Crochet Witch Hat on Baby Lock’s website. The instructions say to make the center of the hat from a triangle shape. The instructions give you the starting dimensions, but don’t tell you what to do to make it into a cone. You might already know this, but you can’t turn a triangle into a cone unless you make a curved base. So here is what I did – I hope it helps.

Drawing the Center Cone

Start with a piece of paper at least 16” x 26”. Draw a triangle with a base of 26” and a center height of 16”. Then draw a line from the center point to the left and right sides of the base. Measure down 16” on each side of the triangle. Then draw a curved line from the 16” mark on one side through the bottom center and to the 16” mark on the other side. You can tie a string onto a pencil and the other end onto a pin. Put the pin at the top point of the triangle and use the string and pencil to draw your partial circle. Your cone is basically a section of a circle that has a radius of 16”. If you need help drawing the curved base, see the resources section for a link to a circle drawing tutorial.

Fabric

For the center cone of the hat, I used a black sturdy double knit as my base fabric with a sheer black and gold lace as an overlay.

Making the Cone

After cutting out the cone shape from the knit and lace fabrics, I basted the two pieces together with my sewing machine. My serger was set up for a four thread overlock stitch with standard serger thread. Next, I serged the side seam with the fabric right sides together.

Making the Cone Support for the Witch Hat

The center cone needs support to hold it upright. The instructions say to use a styrofoam floral cone or poster board. I did a brief search on the internet and couldn’t find any cones the right size. So I made my own poster board cone. I traced the pattern on poster board and cut off the ¼” seam allowances from each side. Then I butted the side edges together and taped the seam well. The bottom edge of the poster board stuck out from under the fabric cone, so I cut a little off the the bottom edge and top so that it was concealed under the fabric.

Thread

I used the recommendations from the free project for my thread. For my 12 weight thread in the loopers, I used two cones of Sulky 12 weight black cotton thread. I bought 2100 yard cones, because I knew I was going to be doing a lot of projects with this thread. (The garden flags I make with my serger also use this 12 wt. thread. Check them out at https://overtheedge.blog/which-fabric-makes-a-better-flag/ ) I really don’t have a clue as to how much thread I used for this project because I still have quite a bit left on my big cones. The instructions say you need two spools of 12 weight thread. A normal spool of Sulky 12 weight cotton is 300 yards. I think I used more than that for my hat, but my hat is extra ruffly. For my needle thread I used one spool of Sulky gold metallic embroidery thread.

I like the look of the thicker threads for my lace. The thick threads make the lace more substantial. Some people like to use lighter weight thread to make a more delicate lace. Experiment to see what combination you like.

FYI – The upper looper uses more thread in the stitch than does the lower looper. If you are using the 300 yard spools, you may need to switch the position of your spools part way through, so both spools empty at approximately the same time.

Serger Set Up

I set my serger up for a wide three thread overlock at a width of 7.5 (my widest) per the instructions. I think the lace looks better with wider loops.
If you have a clear foot, use it for serger crochet. I think a clear foot is the secret to great results! Many tutorials just use the regular foot, which is probably fine for small lace edges. But it’s easier to miss the loops and get gaps when you can’t see the thread loops. The clear foot allows you to see exactly what is happening as you feed your loops under the foot and you can make adjustments before it’s too late.
Serger extension table like a Sew Steady table. This is optional, but it is really useful for supporting the wide lace on the brim and keeping the loops flat. On a smaller project like a narrow lace edging an extension table is probably not needed.

Serging the Witch Hat Brim

All serging is done in the round, so there is no serging on and off except at the beginning and the end of the serger crochet. The instructions said to start with 8 rows at a stitch length of 4 and end with the last row at a stitch length of 1. The instructions also said they used 28 rows total for their sample (27, plus the last row at a stitch length of 1.) I thought the instructions for the rows in between were a bit vague, but maybe that’s where we were given creative flexibility to create the lace our own way. Just in case you want to repeat what I did, here are the number of rows and the stitch lengths I used to create the brim of my serger crochet witch hat:

8 rows of SL 4
4 rows each of SL 3.5, 3.0, 2.5, 2.0
3 rows of SL 1.5
1 row of SL 1.0

Row 1

The first row is the only row that is serged completely on fabric. I kept my blade engaged for the first row, serging on the right side of the fabric, trimming off the edge of the fabric to even it up. Then I lowered my blade for the rest of the rows, so I didn’t accidentally cut my crochet. I also started serging with the fabric right side up and the cone inside out, because it was easier for me to maneuver the curve. Later on when the brim was wider, I turned the cone right side out so that the brim could lay nice and flat as I serged.

Row 2

When I completed the circle and got back to the seam, I guided the project slightly to the left, so my needle was penetrating the fabric close to the raw edge and my loops were hanging about halfway off the fabric. I serged all the way around this time with my loops hanging off the edge.

Row 3 and All Other Rows

At row 3 I began serging “on air”, just on thread. At the start of each row, I guided the thread lace slightly to the left so I was serging on the edges of the thread loops from the previous row. I serged on the thread loops with the needle in the middle of the loops or a little closer to the edges, being sure to catch all the loops.

Middle Rows

As I began to decrease my stitch length, the thread “fabric” began to wave and ruffle and flounce. I had to work a little harder to guide the edges of the loops to the needle because now I was serging more of a curve.

As the brim got wider and the stitch length smaller, the edge began to wave and ruffle and flounce even more. This required more maneuvering of the thread loops to keep them flat and feeding under the needle properly. I had to realign the edges of the loops frequently to keep them feeding properly up to the needle. This included lifting the presser foot to pivot and allow the thread fabric to relax.

Outer Rows

The last few rows took the longest to complete because of the sharp curves. It was like serging on a bunch of small circles. I had to lift the presser foot very frequently to realign the edges of the loops before the needle. The clear presser foot allowed me to see exactly what was happening with the feeding of my loops, so I was sure to catch the loops with my needle. The last few rows at small stitch lengths were also the rows that created the greatest amount of volume of ruffle and flounce. You can see from the photo below, as the brim got wider, I had to serge on smaller and smaller curves to keep the previous rows flat as I serged.

Finishing the Witch Hat

When I got back to the beginning of the last row, I serged back toward the previous row’s needle stitching until I had a few stitches of overlap. At that point I lifted my presser foot, turned the project 90 degrees and serged off, leaving a chain. I smoothed out my thread chain and separated the needle thread from the looper threads. Then I tied the needle thread to the looper threads in a knot on the back side and trimmed off the extra thread.

Oops – What to do if you Make a mistake?

If you accidentally miss some loops and leave some holes in your serger crochet, most people find it easiest to go back and hand stitch the holes together after they are done serging.

Fortunately, I only had one oops where I went off the loops on this project. On my second to last row, my foot control got stuck on a drawer under my serger table. My serger kept serging even though I took my foot off the foot control. My hands couldn’t react fast enough. In that few seconds, I serged right off the edge of my brim! Fortunately, I was able to camouflage the oops. I trimmed my threads leaving a tail. I realigned my needle with the needle threads, a few stitches back from where I accidently serged off. Then I began serging again. Later, I pulled both thread tails to the back and tied them in a knot and trimmed them. With all the ruffles and flouncing, you’d have to inspect very carefully to find the oops!

I attribute my low number of oops to using a clear foot, serging slowly, pivoting a lot and taking breaks when my eyes got tired.

Tips on Serger Crochet

Beginning Rows of Serger Crochet

The first several rows of serger crochet are quick and relatively easy. For stitch lengths of 4, 3.5, and 3, I found it fairly easy to use the needle markings on the toe of the foot as my guide for the edge of the loops so I caught all the loops in my stitching. (I used the 1st line on the right as my guide, which is the position of my O2 needle (the right needle).

Middle Rows of Serger Crochet

As the stitch length gets smaller and you create more and more of a flounce you need to stop more often and reposition the loops. At about a stitch length of 2.5 and 2, I started lining the loops up with a point under the presser foot, closer to the needle than the toe of the presser foot. The point I used was the metal edge of my needle plate that was aligned with my right needle. Because of the curve/wave it was too difficult to force the fabric to to match up with the right most marking on the toe. I did this by watching the loops through the clear presser foot. I also needed to lift the toe of the presser foot every so often to realign the loops and make sure they were staying flat and not bunching up.

Last Rows of Serger Crochet

At a stitch length of 1.5 and 1, I had to stop very often and actually raise the presser foot to release the pressure on the thread fabric and keep loops flat and aligned (like every ¼”-½” ). Also I had to actually watch the needle catch the loops through the clear presser foot. Because of the wave/curve, it was pretty much impossible to keep the edge of the loops aligned with the marks on the presser foot. I lifted the foot and slightly moved the loops into position and then lowered the foot and kept going. I always made sure the needle was down in the loops before I lifted the presser foot.

How Long to Complete?

As you can see from the data below, as the stitch length got shorter, the time to complete the row became a lot longer. This is due to the flounce effect – more distance to cover and more time spent lifting and adjusting loops to keep them aligned and flat because of the sharper and sharper curves. The last few rows took a REALLY LONG time, but that is where most of the volume was created.

30 minutes – 8 rows at SL 4, 4 rows at SL 3.5 and 1 row at SL 3
20 minutes – 3 rows at SL 3, 4 rows at SL 2.5
35 minutes – 4 rows at SL 2
65 minutes – 2 rows at SL 1.5 (I documented 65 minutes but I think I read the clock incorrectly. Based on the next entry I think it should have taken more time)
100 minutes – 1 row at SL 1.5
230 minutes – 1 row at SL 1.0

So it took me about 8 hours to complete the serger crochet on my witch hat. Almost 4 hours of that time was spent on row 28, the last row, at a stitch length of 1.

I could have stopped after row 27 and finished the brim in about half the time, and that hat would have still looked great. It would have been ruffly, but not nearly as ruffly as it was with 28 rows. I’m glad I took the extra time for that last row. I think it’s beautiful! But I will tell you that last row was a little monotonous. I could only serge about 30 minutes of time before I had to take a break.

How to Make a Witch Hat with Serger Crochet

Thanks for following along with my serger crochet witch hat project. Are you inspired to try serger crochet? I hope so!

Resources

Serger Crochet Witch Hat Project from Baby Lock, https://babylock.com/learn-and-create/projects/serger-crochet-witch-hat

General Serger Crochet Tips from Baby Lock, https://babylock.com/learn-and-create/projects/serger-crochet

Tutorial from Wonderfil Specialty Threads – Making Serger Lace Tutorial, https://www.wonderfil.ca/blog/making-serger-lace-tutorial/2/13/2017

How to Draw a Circle with String, https://www.instructables.com/How-to-draw-a-circle-with-string/

If you are interested in more projects, check out the book, Serger Crochet, by Joan Friedrich and Nancy Zieman. Unfortunately the book is out of print. But you may be able to find a used or new copy on the internet or your local shop.

Which Fabric Makes a Better Flag?

Posted on October 9, 2020January 23, 2021 by jghuiz

Making “stained glass” fabric flags with reversible fabrics is a great way to utilize the flatlock stitch on your serger! But which fabric makes a better flag – cotton batik or flag sport nylon?

Earlier this year I wrote a blog post and tutorial about making a serger flatlocked heart flag. That flag was made from cotton batik fabric because that is what I had access to at the time. After that post, I received several questions asking me if the flag could be made from nylon fabric. I finally got my hands on some flag sport nylon fabric and gave it a try. I experimented with garden flag prototypes until I was happy with the results. Making a flatlocked flag out of flag sport nylon is not that much different than making a flag using cotton batiks. But I do have a few tips to help you be more successful. Read on below to learn more about working with flag sport nylon to make flatlocked flags using your serger.

Since I really love using my serger to make these garden flags, I decided to design a flag for every season! My Pumpkin Garden Flag is both my second flag design and my second official serger pattern. You can find the pattern for my Pumpkin Garden Flag in my Etsy shop (see LINK at bottom of post).

Which Makes a Better Flag – Cotton Batik or Flag Sport Nylon?

These pumpkin garden flags are equally awesome in cotton batik or flag sport nylon. But there are pros and cons to using both fabrics for flags.

Cotton Batiks

You can find cotton batiks in all sorts of interesting colors and patterns that really bring the flag to life.
Cotton is easy to sew or serge.
It is not water repellent or quick drying and will soak up water when it rains.
Cottons will fade when exposed to sunlight.

Flag Sport Nylon

Flag sport nylon is available in only solid colors.
Nylon can be stiffer and more slippery than cotton, and a little more difficult to handle than cotton.
It is mold/mildew resistant, water repellent and quick drying.
Nylon will fade when exposed to sunlight, just not as fast as cotton.

Although I think the cotton batik flags are much more interesting, the flag sport nylon flag will probably hold up better outside. So my nylon flags will hang outside. And my batik flags will be for indoor use, or limited outdoor use. But maybe I will hang my batik flags outside anyway and make new ones when they fade. Now that I’ve made a few they are pretty quick to serge. I can make a flag in less than an hour, including cutting out the pieces.

About the Flatlock Stitch

There are different techniques for doing a flatlock stitch, such as flatlock on the raw edges of fabric or flatlock on a fold. But for this blog post I am referring to flatlock piecing, where you use the three thread flatlock stitch to seam two pieces of fabric together with the knife engaged and slightly skimming/trimming the raw edges of the fabric. In the Resources section at the bottom of this post you will find a link to a short video I made about flatlock piecing.

As you serge, the upper looper forms “loops” on the top, and the needle thread forms “Vs” on the bottom and the lower looper forms a straight line right along the raw edges of the fabric.

When pulled open, one side of the seam will form “loops” and one side of the seam will form “ladders”. You will also notice that one of the fabric raw edges will remain flat, and the other will fold under. The raw edge of the fabric that is on top remains flat which you will see on the loop side of the stitch. The raw edge of the fabric that is on the bottom when you serge, will fold under which you will see on the ladder side of the stitch.

How to Get the Fabric Raw Edge to Fold Consistently on the Ladder Side

The way you open the seam can help the raw edge fold well. Of course you can just grab it and yank it open, but you may find the raw edges don’t always fold over the way you want them to. If you work with the fabric and it’s natural tendency to fold you will get better results. Here’s what you can do to get a better fold of the raw edge in your flatlock stitch:

Place the seam with the bottom fabric side (the V side) facing up.

Insert your fingers between the two layers of fabric, placing them next to the seam.

Use those fingers to hold the fabric down, while you use your other hand to pull the other piece of fabric to open the seam. Continue holding the fabric down and pulling the fabric open until you have opened the entire seam.

Differences between Serging with Cotton Batik and Flag Sport Nylon

Cotton batik fabric is a softer and less slippery than nylon, which makes it a little easier to handle. I recommend that you make your first flag from cotton batiks, before moving onto to nylon.

Flatlocking with Cotton Batiks

Cotton batik fabrics are soft and supple enough that the raw edges typically fold under within a flatlock stitch. These folded raw edges lay flat within the seam and therefore the seams are fairly flat, especially if you press them. You don’t need to do anything else. Occasionally the raw edge may flip out and lay flat in a spot or two. You can just manually help it fold back under the stitches by using a stiletto or some other tool.

flatlock stitch ladder side

which fabric makes a better flag

Flatlocking with Flag Sport Nylon

Nylon is stiffer, which means it prefers not to fold. So the raw edges of the nylon fabric within the flatlock seam will fold in some areas and try to lay flat in others. This flipping back and forth between flat raw edges and folded raw edges creates bumps or twists in the seam at each transition. See example below.

which fabric makes a better flag

lumpy flatlock seams

Since the nylon would prefer to lay flat and not fold, you will get a nicer looking seam if you prevent the raw edges from folding as you open the seam. I’ve found that if I run my fingers gently along the back of the seam as I am opening it up, I can prevent the raw edges of that bottom layer from folding under. However, I sometimes still end up with a few areas that have folded under.

So here’s what you do if you still have areas that are folded after you open your seam. Take a stiletto or other tool and insert it carefully between the ladder stitches and under the folded raw edge. Gently “grab” the folded edge with your tool and unfold it. Your seams will lay nice and flat if you do this. (You could do this with cottons too, but there is no need since the folded seams aren’t bulky.) I was very happy with the results of this technique on my nylon flags. The seams on the flags were smooth and flat. It was worth the little bit of extra fiddling with the seams to make them look perfect (see photo below).

which fabric makes a better flag

smooth flatlock seams

Types of Thread I used for Serging Flags

I’ve used several different types of thread for serging garden flags. The thicker decorative threads are more visible and create a better “stained glass” effect, but standard serger threads will work if that’s all you have or if that’s what works in your serger. Not all thick decorative threads work in all sergers. My Baby Lock Evolution serger happily handles all threads, but my first serger (a Pfaff) was very finicky. For example, it did not like YLI Wooly Nylon no matter how many adjustments I made, but it was happy with Gutermann Toldi Lock or Maxi Lock Stretch.

12 wt. Cotton or Rayon

I used both a 12 wt. cotton thread by Sulky and a 12 wt. rayon thread by Madeira for my cotton batik flags, and both work well. Even though the label on the spool recommends a size 100 needle, I used a size 90 serger needle, because that is the maximum size needle I can use in my serger. I serged at a slower speed, and didn’t have any problems with these threads in my needle. Of course, the loopers can handle these threads, no problem.

Texturized Nylon

Threads such as YLI Wooly Nylon, Madeira Aeroflock, Gutermann Bulky Nylon and Maxi Lock Stretch are all brands of texturized nylon thread. This type of thread serges well and has good coverage of the seams on the garden flags. I have found that the texturized nylon thread in a flatlock stitch tends to “snag” on rough surfaces more than other threads I have used for flags (such as cotton, rayon). So when the flag is flapping around in the breeze and rubs up against something, the thread may catch and pull the seam, distorting the stitches slightly. I did use texturized nylon thread for the seams on the nylon flags.

Pumpkin Garden Flag Pattern

Follow the link below to take you to the Pattern Section of my Etsy shop – Studio J Sewing. This pattern is available as a PDF file digital download. You can begin serging pumpkin garden flags as soon as you checkout!

Purchase the serger sewing pattern, Pumpkin Garden Flag, before October 31, 2020 and save 30% using Etsy coupon code SAVE30PATTERN during checkout.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/studiojsewing?coupon=SAVE30PATTERN

etsy pumpkin garden flag pattern serger sewing

I’d love to see the finished pumpkin garden flags you made with your sergers! Please share your photos via email to jennifer@overtheedge.blog. Which fabric makes a better flag? What do you think?

Resources

If you’d like to try making a heart flag with my free tutorial click on this link: https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/serger-flatlocked-heart-flag/

To see flatlock piecing in action click on this link to view my YouTube video on Flatlock Piecing: https://youtu.be/iN_D06Htzwg

To learn how easy it is to remove stitches in a three thread flatlock seam, click on this link to view my YouTube video: https://youtu.be/QIW0PZQDW 64

Scrappy Fabric Pumpkins Make Perfect Fall Decor

Posted on September 30, 2020September 30, 2020 by jghuiz

I’m very excited to announce that I have released my first “official” serger sewing pattern, Scrappy Fabric Pumpkins. I originally created this design for a class I taught a few years ago. But now as the leaves begin to change colors, I thought it was the perfect time to update my pattern and make it available to you.

Learn to do More with your Serger

If you’ve taken a serger class with me, you know it is not unusual for me to create my own projects to teach. My goal is to create projects that inspire people to want to use their sergers for more than finishing raw edges or creating samples of techniques for a notebook.

Finishing raw edges cleanly with a serger is a great use of the serger. And technique notebooks are important for understanding the potential uses of your serger. But many people never take the next step when it comes to learning their serger. It would be like making a sample of all the stitches your sewing machine can do, but never using the sewing machine to create a project. Maybe one reason this happens is because patterns written specifically for sergers are not nearly as abundant in the marketplace as patterns written for sewing machines. I’m hoping to change that, one serger pattern at a time!

On my blog I have shared a lot of free content and I will continue to do so. However, there are expenses associated with maintaining a blog, and it is my hope that selling patterns written for sergers will generate enough income to cover those expenses and allow me to continue to inspire others to serge. Thanks for your support!

The Scrappy Fabric Pumpkins Pattern

Serge a scrappy fabric pumpkin for fall and learn to use a serger rolled hem stitch for more than napkins, ruffles and scarves. Not only can you create fun decorations for your home, but you can improve your serging skills. Scrappy serger pumpkins are so cute you won’t be able to make just one! Even the tendrils are made with the serger. An empty skinny thread spool makes a great stem. I’ve included lots of color photographs to help you out every step of the way. Happy Fall!

Follow the link below to take you to the Pattern Section of my Etsy shop – Studio J Sewing. This pattern is available as a PDF file digital download. You can begin serging pumpkins as soon as you checkout!

Purchase the serger sewing pattern, Scrappy Fabric Pumpkins, before October 31, 2020 and save 30% using Etsy coupon code SAVE30PATTERN during checkout.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/studiojsewing?ref=seller-platform-mcnav&section_id=30533440

I’d love to see the finished scrappy fabric pumpkins you made with your sergers! Please share your photos via email to jennifer@overtheedge.blog.

Improve your Serging with a Piping/Cording Foot

Posted on September 12, 2020September 12, 2020 by jghuiz

“Why would I want a piping/cording foot for my serger?” you might ask. Well, let me tell you. You can improve your serging with a piping/cording foot. The foot can be used to create custom piping, to attach piping, and even to install a plastic coil zipper in home decor, bags, and more with great results. So if you do any of those types of sewing and have a serger, you will benefit from a serger piping/cording foot.

The Anatomy of the Foot

Your serger piping/cording foot may look a little different than the ones pictured below. But they all function pretty much the same way. Feet designed for standard 4 thread overlock sergers will be narrower than those designed for machines that both overlock and coverstitch. The feet for 8 thread machines will be wider, because they can be used with either the overlock needles or the coverstitch needles. All of the serger piping/cording feet have a special groove on the bottom that wraps around the piping or zipper coils, keeping them in position. Since the foot guides the piping or zipper coils, you only have to worry about guiding your fabric as you serge. Insert piping and zippers nice and evenly with this foot!

Uses for a Serger Piping/Cording Foot

As the name implies, use this foot to make custom piping.

And also to attach piping.

Or to insert piping into a seam.

But you can also use the foot to install a zipper.

install a zipper with a serger piping cording foot

Project Example

I made the garment bag and travel set picture below using a serger. The zipper and the piping were both serged using a piping/cording foot.

Serge a Zippered Bag

My favorite use for this foot is to install a zipper. A zippered bag is the perfect project to practice inserting a zipper with a serger. You can make them in all shapes and sizes. Click on the links below to view my Serge a Stylish Zippered Bag Tutorial or my Simple Serged Bag with a Zipper Youtube video.

https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/serge-a-stylish-zippered-bag/

Try it out and see if the piping/cording foot helps you get great results with your serger projects!

Resources

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pcn9466SI0g – Babylock cording foot used to make and insert piping.

https://www.asg.org/serger-piping/ – American Sewing Guild – Making and inserting piping with a serger.

https://babylock.com/learn-and-create/projects/serged-and-corded-story-time-pillow – Serger project which uses this foot for piping and zipper.

The Making of a Skating Dress

Posted on August 23, 2020August 23, 2020 by jghuiz

I was inspired to blog about the making of a skating dress, because this is the time of year I am typically crazy busy making costumes for color guards and figure skaters. But not this year. Because of the pandemic most of these activities were cancelled or down-sized. The good news is that I will have more time to invest in my blog. But I still am going to miss the creative process of designing costumes for these performers. I might not be sewing them this year, but I can reminisce and share some of my creations with you. So today my blog post is all about The Making of a Skating Dress.

I started designing and sewing figure skating dresses when my daughters were skating many years ago. My serger was the perfect tool to use to create these costumes. I taught myself through trial and error, like most designers of figure skating fashion. After my daughters transitioned to color guard, I started designing and sewing color guard uniforms. My girls no longer skate or guard, but I am still designing and sewing costumes for others! I enjoy working with all of the pretty fabrics and embellishments.

The Making of a Skating Dress from Start to Finish

I didn’t photograph the steps of the creation process for many of my costumes, but I did happen to take enough photos of one of my dress designs to be able to feature it in this blog post. This dress was designed for a collegiate synchronized figure skating team.

Here is the process I follow to create a custom costume. Typically I need 6-8 weeks of time (minimum) from meeting with the coaches to delivering a set of costumes. It really depends on the complexity of the costume and the number of performers. I do all the designing and sewing myself. Sometimes my hubby will help me with some cutting or hand sewing.

Initial Discussion of Ideas, Budget and Timeline

The first step is to talk with the coaches/performers about the design they are envisioning and get their input about fabric and colors. We also discuss their budget and timeline. If they have made sketches or collected photos of what they are looking for, I also ask for copies of those.

The inspiration for this dress came from a dress worn by Meryl Davis, an olympic gold medalist in ice dancing (photo below). They wanted the skirt to be longer and full and to dip in the back. They also wanted to add straps to hold up the bodice. The colors they chose were bright pink and purple.

Fabric Swatches

Based on our initial discussion, I typically order several different fabric swatches. Because they have a huge selection I order most of my spandex from spandexworld.com. The decisions on actual fabrics to be used are not made until after we’ve had a chance to touch and feel the fabric swatches. Fabrics can appear quite differently from how they appear on your computer screen.

For this dress, we decided on a holographic pink bodice, a holographic purple belt and a sparkle purple spandex. What appears to be a bare midriff is really a stretch mesh with stretch lining underneath.

Meet, Determine and Measure

Once I receive the fabric swatches, I meet with the coaches/skaters. At this meeting we choose the actual fabrics to be used in the costume, and make final decisions about the dress design. I also take measurements of all of the performers. For teams, in addition to measurements, I have all of the performers try on my “fit samples”. These fit samples help skaters to determine the size they are most comfortable in. I use their preferences along with the measurements to determine which size costume to make for each performer.

Sketch

After gathering all of the data, I make a simple sketch of desired design and get approval from the coaches.

Estimates and Ordering

After the sketch is approved, I determine the amount of fabric to be ordered and provide an estimate for the project to the coaches/performers. Once the estimate has been approved and I have received the down payment, I order the fabrics and notions.

Prototype

While I am waiting for the fabric to arrive, I make the prototype pattern and then the prototype dress from similar fabrics.The prototype is usually made in my size so I can put it on and evaluate the fit and design. Sometimes I use a commercial pattern as a base for the design, especially when I first began making skating dresses. But now I mostly work from a standard sloper I have created, which I modify for each design. If you are looking for some patterns to make skating dresses, Jalie has quite a few. Kwik Sew also has a few. There are also some independent pattern companies, such as Specialty Sportswear Patterns, that make figure skating dress patterns. I have links to their websites in the Resources section at the bottom of the post. The making of a skating dress is a lot like making a swimsuit with a skirt. See my blog post about the Purrfect Swimsuit. https://overtheedge.blog/the-purrfect-swimsuit/

Prototype Approval

Usually I send photos of the prototype on my dress form (or sometimes on me). Sometimes the prototype review is in person, so they have a good idea of what the finished product will look like. Seeing a sketch is great, but seeing a 3D model is even better. Sometimes I make minor changes at this stage based on input from the coaches.

After viewing this prototype, the coaches decided they would like the pink bodice to be a little longer, and they wanted the skirt to be more of a hi-low, with a dip in the back. But everything else was good.

Pattern Making

I make a custom pattern for each size needed. For teams I make the patterns in XS, S, M, L and maybe XL and match the skater to the best fit. I don’t make a custom pattern for each performer on a team unless the team wants to pay for custom patterns for each performer. Depending on the design of the dress I can end up with quite a few pattern pieces!

Layout and Cutting

Once the fabric arrives, I cut out all of the fabric pieces one fabric at a time. I have a large cutting mat, and typically rotary cut around my pattern pieces, using pattern weights. I use a ping pong table adapted to a large cutting table. Having the big table makes it easier to layout and cut since I order large quantities of fabric on big rolls. I have a bin designated for each dress, so I can keep all the pieces for each dress together.

Sewing and Serging

After I cut out all the pieces for all the costumes, I sew/serge assembly line style for efficiency. I will complete one step for all of the dresses before moving onto the next. Usually these costumes are made with a combination of sewing and serging. I use my sewing machine for basting and other misc things that may be difficult to do on my serger. I use my serger for most of the seams that need to stretch. Most costumes have a combination of both overlock stitches and cover stitches.

Test Fabric Color Fastness

It never even crossed my mind that a synthetic fabric would bleed. The first time I had this problem with a fabric was with a color guard uniform. It was a surprise to me and the performers when the front of their armpits turned pinkish purple from the purple band on their sleeveless unitard.

I recommend soaking your fabrics in warm water to see if any color bleeds. On bright colors, even spandex bleeds sometimes. I don’t typically prewash the fabrics because I am working with very large rolls. Cutting it up into washing machine size pieces and then washing and drying it would add a lot to the cost of the costume. And many performance fabrics lose their sheen if washed too much. If they need to wash them, I usually tell them to hand wash quickly, roll it up in a towel to blot it dry and then hang to finish drying. Many times performance costumes are not washed at all.

The bright pink and purple fabrics for this dress did bleed after soaking for a while.

Final Fitting

Once I have the costume completed, except for attaching the back of the straps, I meet with the performers to do a final fitting and adjust the straps for the best fit.

Final Touches

The straps are then permanently attached and the finishing touches are completed, such as applying embellishments and crystals. The synchronized skating and color guard teams I usually design for do not have crystals applied to their costumes. When I design dresses for individual figure skaters I usually apply crystals.

Photography

I photograph all of my creations so I can look back and remember all the fun stuff I made. Looking at photographs of old costumes always brings a smile to my face.

Delivery Preparations

To prepare the costumes for delivery, I put them hangers, steam them to remove wrinkles and place them in a garment bag.

Delivery/Pickup

Sometimes I deliver the costumes, and sometimes the coaches or performers pick them up. I love to see how excited the performers get when they try on their new costume for the first time. It’s kind of like Christmas morning when the kids first see the presents under the tree…..

Observe Performance

If possible, I attend a competition or skating event to see my creations in action. I don’t know if any other designers do this, but for me it brings great joy to see the finished result of my many hours of hard work.

If you are interested in seeing more of my costume creations, please visit my facebook page for Studio J Sewing (my sewing and design business). Click on photos and scroll past the face masks, and you will see many of the fun and beautiful costumes I have created.

https://www.facebook.com/studiojsewing/

The Making of a Skating Dress

I hope you enjoyed learning about The Making of a Skating Dress!

Resources

https://jalie.com/

https://www.specialtysportswearpatterns.com/

https://somethingdelightful.com/kwik-sew/costumes/