Tag: serger project

How to Make Tree Ornaments Using a Serger

how to make tree ornaments using a serger

How to Make Tree Ornaments Using a Serger

I’m always looking for new things to make with my serger and its attachments. And the holidays always bring out my creative side. As I was searching the internet for inspiration, I came across posts by Sara Gallegos of the Decorative Stitch and Mathew Boudreaux of Mister Domestic, which inspired me to create my Ribbon Candy Tree Ornaments Tutorial. (Links to their posts are in the Resources section at the bottom of the post). Sara followed Mathew’s strip tree ornament tutorial, but instead of using a sewing machine to create the fabric strips, she used her Baby Lock serger and the small belt loop binder attachment.

After reading about the process they used to make their tree ornaments, I decided to experiment with my serger and design my own ornaments. These ornaments all begin with a folded piece of fabric, which can be quickly and easily made with the right serger attachment. I own three different attachments for my Baby Lock serger that all fold the fabric and stitch it together in one step, so I tested all three attachments using both bias and cross grain fabric strips. I also tested the effect of adding interfacing to the fabric strips. This ornament project is a great way to practice using your attachments. Keep reading to learn how to make tree ornaments using a serger.  

My Experiments with Making Fabric Ribbons Using a Serger

Using quilting weight cotton fabric I made fabric “ribbons” using three different attachments that I have for my serger. All three attachments are meant to be used with a cover stitch and fold under the raw edges of the strips to conceal them within the fabric and/or stitching. I used a wide cover stitch for the large belt loop attachment and a narrow cover stitch for both the smaller belt loop binder and the double fold bias binder. I tried each attachment with both crosswise grain and bias grain fabric strips. The red strips in the photo below are bias grain strips and the blue ones are cross grain.

how to make tree ornaments using a serger

I also experimented with different stitch lengths. The blue belt loop was serged at a stitch length of 2. the green at a stitch length of 2.5 and the red at at stitch length of 3. See photo below. At stitch lengths less than 3 on my Baby Lock serger you lose the ability to chain off with the cover stitch, but the shorter stitch lengths cover the raw edges better. I used embroidery thread in the needles and wooly nylon in the looper for better coverage of fabric raw edges.

Serger Attachments  

Belt Loop Folder/Binder Attachment

Baby Lock makes two different sizes of belt loop binders – 1½” and ¾”. The larger one makes finished belt loop strips that are about ¾” wide. The smaller one makes finished belt loop strips that are about ⅜” wide. The fabric is folded once and therefore the finished strips have two layers of fabric. There is a link to my belt loop binder tutorial in the Resources section at the bottom of this post if you would like more information about this attachment.

36 mm Double Fold Bias Binder Attachment

A serger double fold bias binder attachment can also be used to make finished binding strips that work well for making ornaments. This attachment makes finished binding that is about ⅜” wide. Since these strips are folded twice, there are four layers of fabric in the finished binding strip.

Normally when using this attachment to bind an edge you have to guide both the binding strip and the fabric you are binding. But for making fabric ribbons for ornaments you only have to guide one piece of fabric because you are not attaching the binding to anything.

There is a link to my double fold bias binder tutorial in the Resources section at the bottom of my post if you would like more information about this attachment.

Fabric Grain and Strip Width

Can you use Both Cross Grain and Bias Fabric Strips in the Attachments? 

Both crosswise grain fabric strips and bias fabric strips will work in the belt loop binder attachment and the double fold bias binder attachment. But you may need to adjust the width of the cut fabric strips for best results depending on whether you use cross grain or bias layout. Interestingly, I found that the cut strip width recommended in the instructions worked well for the crosswise grain strips, but not so well for the bias cut strips. For me the bias cut strips folded better when I added another ⅛” to the width of the cut strip.

The chart below lists the best cut strip widths for the quilting cotton fabric I used in this comparison:

AttachmentGrainCut Strip Width
1½” Belt Loop BinderCrosswise1⅝”
1½” Belt Loop BinderBias1¾”
¾” Belt Loop BinderCrosswise⅞”
¾” Belt Loop BinderBias1”
36mm Double Fold Bias BinderCrosswise1⅜”
36mm Double Fold Bias BinderBias1½”

Which Grain Makes the Best Ornament?

The fabric strips I use for weaving work well on the cross grain because weaving is done in a straight line. However, for the ornaments, I think the bias fabric strips work better because of the curves. The loops of the ornaments look smoother using bias fabric strips. See photo below for a comparison. The tree ornament on the left was made using a crosswise grain belt loop strip and the ornament on the right was made using a bias belt loop strip. The curves of the cross grain loops tend to slightly buckle. The curves of the bias grain loops are much smoother. So although I prefer to use the bias belt loop strips for my ornaments, the cross grain strips will work. So should you use cross grain fabric strips that are easier to cut or bias strips make a smoother curve? The decision is yours.

how to make tree ornaments using a serger

With or Without Interfacing?

Both Sara and Mathew used interfacing in the fabric ribbons they used to make their ornaments. I experimented with using interfacing on a crossgrain strip for the 1½” belt loop binder.   

The first strip I serged without interfacing (red). The second strip I added a strip of light weight fusible interfacing to the strip (green). I fused a ⅝” wide piece of interfacing to the center of the wrong side of my fabric strip. I made my interfacing ⅛” smaller than the finished width of the belt loop, so the edges were not too stiff for proper folding.

Sara used a stabilizer in her example. She did not pre fuse it to the fabric. She fed it into the attachment as she was feeding in the fabric. I tried this method a few times and couldn’t get the hang of it it. So I decided to fuse the interfacing to the fabric before I fed it into the attachment.

The bias belt loops I used in the ornaments seemed to hold their shape fine, so I didn’t feel the need to add interfacing.

I made a tree ornament from both strips to compare the results. The loops on the green tree are more stable with the interfacing added. The loops on the red tree ornament without interfacing are softer and more prone to bending. So both methods of making belt loop fabric will work. You will get a sturdier ornament with the interfacing and a softer one without it. 

Tips for Success Using Fabric Strips in a Serger Attachments

how to make tree ornaments using a serger

Press Seams Open

Make sure that seams in the fabric strip are pressed open and stay open when feeding into the attachment. When the seam allowances flip together, those areas may be too thick for the attachment to fold the fabric properly.

how to make tree ornaments using a serger

Minimize Number of Seam Allowances

Make your bias fabric strips from large pieces of fabric with as few seams as possible. The more seams in your bias strips, the more chances for them to flip the wrong way and cause “blips” in your perfectly folded belt loops. This is also true of seam allowances in cross grain fabric strips.

Avoid Intersecting Seams

The attachment can easily fold one pressed open seam.

how to make tree ornaments using a serger

But not two intersecting seams. You will always be disappointed with the folding results of intersecting seams in your belt loop fabric. The attachment just can’t fold the extra thick areas nicely. See example below where two perpendicular seams in the bias fabric strip come together and see how the attachment can’t fold it under. 

Raw Edges Not Being Caught in the Stitches

If your raw edges are not catching in the stitches there are a couple of reasons why that might be happening.

Check the Width of your Fabric Strip

It could be that your strip isn’t wide enough. Different fabrics and even different grains within the same fabric can fold differently. The initial bias strips that I cut at 1⅝” wide (per the instructions) and fed into the belt loop binder weren’t wide enough to always catch the raw edges in the stitching. So I cut my bias fabric strips a little bit wider to 1¾” (just an extra ⅛”) and the problem went away. The cross grain strips cut at 1⅝” folded well as they went through the attachment. 

Check the Placement of your Attachment

Not having the needles centered within the fabric strip can lead to raw edges on the back not being caught by the stitches. You should test your attachment line up and adjust as necessary.

Pay Attention to the Fabric Strip as it Feeds into the Attachment

How the fabric is fed into the attachment can affect whether or not the raw edges get folded under properly and captured within the stitches. Make certain your fabric strips are feeding into the attachment smoothly and evenly, centered within the feeding slot on the attachment. Pay special attention to the pressed open seam allowances to make certain they don’t flip as they enter the attachment. 

Fabric Buckles and Folds

how to make tree ornaments using a serger

If the fabric strip is too wide to fold properly, it will buckle, fold and twist as it is folded within the attachment and stitched. The direction of grain in the strips, as well as the properties of the fabric itself can make a difference in the “right” width, so you may need to experiment to get your strips looking their best. In the photo above, there are two double fold bias binding strips, both cut on the cross grain of the fabric. The green one was cut at 1½” wide and was just a little too wide for the attachment, and it buckled, folded and twisted as it went through the attachment. And those folds and twists were stitched right into the strip. The blue one was cut at 1⅜” wide, and folded well in the attachment to create a nice smooth strip.

In Conclusion

All above methods of making fabric “ribbons” on a serger yielded good results for making ribbon candy tree ornaments. If you prefer the look of an ornament made from ⅜” wide fabric ribbons then I would use the smaller belt loop binder or the double fold bias binder. If you prefer the look of an ornament made from the ¾” wide fabric ribbons then I would use the 1½” belt loop binder.

how to make tree ornaments using a serger

Get My Instructions for Making Ribbon Candy Tree Ornaments

For my Ribbon Candy Tree Ornament Tutorial, I chose to use the bias fabric ribbons without interfacing made with my 1½” belt loop binder attachment. I wanted to make “large” ornaments which I thought worked best with the larger ribbon produced by this attachment. I created my own version of three different ornament shapes – a tree, an icicle and a piece of ribbon candy – and have shared my instructions with you in my Ribbon Candy Tree Ornament Tutorial for Sergers. Here is the link: https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/ribbon-candy-tree-ornament-tutorial-for-sergers/

Feel free to experiment and find your favorite combination. I hope you enjoyed learning about how to make tree ornaments with your serger. I would love to see the ornaments that you create! 

serging with jen

Resources

My tutorial on using a serger belt loop binder – https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/how-to-use-a-serger-belt-loop-binder-to-make-folded-fabric-strips-for-weaving/ 

My tutorial on using a serger double fold bias binder – https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/serger-double-fold-bias-binder-tutorial/

How to Make your own Continuous Bias Binding – https://sew4home.com/how-to-make-your-own-continuous-bias-binding/

Let’s Make a Serger Christmas Ornament post by Sara Gallegos of The Decorative Stitch – https://www.decorativestitch.com/lets-make-a-serger-christmas-ornament.htm

Strip Tree Ornament post by Mathew Boudreaux of Mister Domestic – https://misterdomestic.com/2017/11/20/strip-tree-ornament-ornament-along-8/

Beautifully Wrapped Gifts Made Simple with a Serger

beautifully wrapped gifts made simple with a serger

Beautifully Wrapped Gifts Made Simple with a Serger

I’ve been using fabric gift wrap for many, many years. Fabric gift wrap is beautiful, and it can be used over and over again. I use it for all occasions – birthdays, showers, holidays, etc. Fabric gift wrap is quick and easy to make using your serger. Read on below to learn all about beautifully wrapped gifts made simple with a serger.

Benefits to using Fabric to Wrap your Gifts

Benefits to using fabric to wrap your gifts:

  • Save some trees – fabric gift wrap is reusable
  • Make it from almost any fabric
  • Great scrap buster – think of all those leftover odd sized pieces you can turn into gift wrap
  • Make it in any size
  • Make the fabric gift wrap part of the gift
  • Perfect reason to use your serger!

Simple Serger Made Fabric Gift Wrap

Let me introduce you to six quick and easy fabric gift wrap projects I have created using a serger. Click on the link near the end of the post to get the instructions to serge your own fabric gift wrap.

1. Wrapping Scarf

The wrapping scarf has been around for a long time. It was my first experiment with fabric gift wrap. Inspired by a book I saw at the store, I bought the book and started making fabric wrapping scarves from my leftover costume satins. Making fabric gift wrap was a double benefit for me. The first benefit was that I was able to make use of leftover fabrics from other projects taking up room in my stash. The second benefit was that the gift wrap was reusable and I no longer filled my trash with piles of paper gift wrap.

With it’s exposed serger stitching, the the wrapping scarf is the perfect project for highlighting decorative threads. You can make it from one reversible fabric which is more economical, or two fabrics, which is more colorful. My favorite wrapping scarves are made from flowy satins and shimmery organzas and chiffons. To secure a wrapping scarf around the gift, tie the ends of the fabric in loose knots, or get creative with added accessories like ribbons, buttons, and more.

beautifully wrapped gifts made simple with a serger
beautifully wrapped gifts made simple with a serger

2. Simple Serged Gift Bag

A simple gift bag serged from a beautiful fabric will make a gift more special. I made the gift bag in the photo below from sparkle organza, which I thought looked great with the metallic silver box I put inside. This gift bag features exposed serger stitches and ribbon ties that are serged right into the seams so they can’t be misplaced. Although this gift bag is flat, it would be easy to give it more shape by boxing out the corners.

beautifully wrapped gifts made simple with a serger

3. Gift Card Envelope

Gift cards have become pretty popular as gifts. Wrap them up in a fabric envelope to make the gift card more special. You could even decorate your tree with these cute little presents. Expose your serger seams and have fun with decorative threads with this gift wrap. And serge the ribbon tie right into the seam to make wrapping the gift card quick and easy.

4. DVD/Book Gift Bag

This flat fabric bag works great for wrapping a book or DVD. This project is quick and easy and features exposed seams and an attached ribbon tie.

5. Petal Pouch

This cute little fabric pouch is great for wrapping small gifts or jewelry. Show off a pretty decorative thread in the exposed serger stitches on the edges of the petals. Sew the casings for the ribbon closure with a sewing machine or chain stitch on a serger.

beautifully wrapped gifts made simple with a serger

6. Drawstring Bag with Ruffle

This is a dressed up version of the standard fabric gift bag. It showcases three different fabrics and has a drawstring closure with a ruffle. The serged seams are on the inside of the bag and not exposed.

How to Make Fabric Gift Wrap with a Serger 

Are you ready to try serging your own fabric gift wrap? If the answer is yes, then be sure to click on the link below to visit my tutorial, How to Make Fabric Gift Wrap with a Serger.

 https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/make-fabric-gift-wrap-with-a-serger/

how to make fabric gift wrap with a serger

I hope you were inspired by my post, Beautifully wrapped gifts made simple with a serger.

serging with jen

Resources

Wrapping Scarves book – The Wrapping Scarf Revolution by Patricia Lee. https://www.amazon.com/Wrapping-Scarf-Revolution-Earth-Friendly-Change/dp/1574861069 Here’s one site where you can buy the book. It was published in 2009, so if you can’t find a new one, you should be able to find a used copy on the internet.

How to Make a Witch Hat with Serger Crochet

serger crochet witch hat

Did you know you can “crochet” with your serger? Some people call it serger crochet, while others refer to it as serger thread lace. The technique involves serging “on air” with just thread and no fabric. The project is an elegant Halloween centerpiece project designed by Joan Friedrich. Follow along with me as I show you how to make a witch hat with serger crochet.

I’ve done serger crochet before, but nothing quite as dramatic as this witch hat. It was easy to do using my Baby Lock serger. However, it is not a quick project to “crochet” the lacy brim. (To actually crochet it by hand would have taken me a lot longer!) My witch hat appears to have a lot more ruffling than the hat in the project instructions. I love it that way because all of the ruffles can be shaped to look like flowers.

It’s been one of those projects that’s been on my to do list for a long time. It always feels great to check something off a to do list! It’s a free project on Baby Lock’s website. You will find the link to the project in the Resources section at the bottom of this post.  

serger crochet witch hat
serger crochet witch hat

Making the Hat Pattern

We all love free projects, right? But sometimes with free projects the instructions aren’t always very detailed. Which is the case with the free project for the Serger Crochet Witch Hat on Baby Lock’s website. The instructions say to make the center of the hat from a triangle shape. The instructions give you the starting dimensions, but don’t tell you what to do to make it into a cone. You might already know this, but you can’t turn a triangle into a cone unless you make a curved base. So here is what I did – I hope it helps.

Drawing the Center Cone

Start with a piece of paper at least 16” x 26”. Draw a triangle with a base of 26” and a center height of 16”. Then draw a line from the center point to the left and right sides of the base. Measure down 16” on each side of the triangle. Then draw a curved line from the 16” mark on one side through the bottom center and to the 16” mark on the other side. You can tie a string onto a pencil and the other end onto a pin. Put the pin at the top point of the triangle and use the string and pencil to draw your partial circle. Your cone is basically a section of a circle that has a radius of 16”. If you need help drawing the curved base, see the resources section for a link to a circle drawing tutorial.

Fabric

For the center cone of the hat, I used a black sturdy double knit as my base fabric with a sheer black and gold lace as an overlay. 

Making the Cone

After cutting out the cone shape from the knit and lace fabrics, I basted the two pieces together with my sewing machine. My serger was set up for a four thread overlock stitch with standard serger thread. Next, I serged the side seam with the fabric right sides together.

Making the Cone Support for the Witch Hat

The center cone needs support to hold it upright. The instructions say to use a styrofoam floral cone or poster board. I did a brief search on the internet and couldn’t find any cones the right size. So I made my own poster board cone. I traced the pattern on poster board and cut off the ¼” seam allowances from each side. Then I butted the side edges together and taped the seam well. The bottom edge of the poster board stuck out from under the fabric cone, so I cut a little off the the bottom edge and top so that it was concealed under the fabric.

Thread

I used the recommendations from the free project for my thread. For my 12 weight thread in the loopers, I used two cones of Sulky 12 weight black cotton thread. I bought 2100 yard cones, because I knew I was going to be doing a lot of projects with this thread. (The garden flags I make with my serger also use this 12 wt. thread. Check them out at https://overtheedge.blog/which-fabric-makes-a-better-flag/ ) I really don’t have a clue as to how much thread I used for this project because I still have quite a bit left on my big cones. The instructions say you need two spools of 12 weight thread. A normal spool of Sulky 12 weight cotton is 300 yards. I think I used more than that for my hat, but my hat is extra ruffly. For my needle thread I used one spool of Sulky gold metallic embroidery thread. 

I like the look of the thicker threads for my lace. The thick threads make the lace more substantial. Some people like to use lighter weight thread to make a more delicate lace.  Experiment to see what combination you like.

FYI – The upper looper uses more thread in the stitch than does the lower looper. If you are using the 300 yard spools, you may need to switch the position of your spools part way through, so both spools empty at approximately the same time.

Serger Set Up

  • I set my serger up for a wide three thread overlock at a width of 7.5 (my widest) per the instructions. I think the lace looks better with wider loops. 
  • If you have a clear foot, use it for serger crochet. I think a clear foot is the secret to great results! Many tutorials just use the regular foot, which is probably fine for small lace edges. But it’s easier to miss the loops and get gaps when you can’t see the thread loops. The clear foot allows you to see exactly what is happening as you feed your loops under the foot and you can make adjustments before it’s too late. 
  • Serger extension table like a Sew Steady table. This is optional, but it is really useful for supporting the wide lace on the brim and keeping the loops flat. On a smaller project like a narrow lace edging an extension table is probably not needed.

Serging the Witch Hat Brim

All serging is done in the round, so there is no serging on and off except at the beginning and the end of the serger crochet. The instructions said to start with 8 rows at a stitch length of 4 and end with the last row at a stitch length of 1. The instructions also said they used 28 rows total for their sample (27, plus the last row at a stitch length of 1.)  I thought the instructions for the rows in between were a bit vague, but maybe that’s where we were given creative flexibility to create the lace our own way. Just in case you want to repeat what I did, here are the number of rows and the stitch lengths I used to create the brim of my serger crochet witch hat:

  • 8 rows of SL 4  
  • 4 rows each of SL 3.5, 3.0, 2.5, 2.0
  • 3 rows of SL 1.5
  • 1 row of SL 1.0

Row 1

The first row is the only row that is serged completely on fabric. I kept my blade engaged for the first row, serging on the right side of the fabric, trimming off the edge of the fabric to even it up. Then I lowered my blade for the rest of the rows, so I didn’t accidentally cut my crochet. I also started serging with the fabric right side up and the cone inside out, because it was easier for me to maneuver the curve. Later on when the brim was wider, I turned the cone right side out so that the brim could lay nice and flat as I serged.

Row 2

When I completed the circle and got back to the seam, I guided the project slightly to the left, so my needle was penetrating the fabric close to the raw edge and my loops were hanging about halfway off the fabric. I serged all the way around this time with my loops hanging off the edge.

Row 3 and All Other Rows

At row 3 I began serging “on air”, just on thread. At the start of each row, I guided the thread lace slightly to the left so I was serging on the edges of the thread loops from the previous row. I serged on the thread loops with the needle in the middle of the loops or a little closer to the edges, being sure to catch all the loops.

Middle Rows

As I began to decrease my stitch length, the thread “fabric” began to wave and ruffle and flounce. I had to work a little harder to guide the edges of the loops to the needle because now I was serging more of a curve. 

serger crochet witch hat

As the brim got wider and the stitch length smaller, the edge began to wave and ruffle and flounce even more. This required more maneuvering of the thread loops to keep them flat and feeding under the needle properly. I had to realign the edges of the loops frequently to keep them feeding properly up to the needle. This included lifting the presser foot to pivot and allow the thread fabric to relax.  

serger crochet witch hat

Outer Rows

The last few rows took the longest to complete because of the sharp curves. It was like serging on a bunch of small circles. I had to lift the presser foot very frequently to realign the edges of the loops before the needle. The clear presser foot allowed me to see exactly what was happening with the feeding of my loops, so I was sure to catch the loops with my needle. The last few rows at small stitch lengths were also the rows that created the greatest amount of volume of ruffle and flounce. You can see from the photo below, as the brim got wider, I had to serge on smaller and smaller curves to keep the previous rows flat as I serged.

serger crochet witch hat
serger crochet witch hat

Finishing the Witch Hat

When I got back to the beginning of the last row, I serged back toward the previous row’s needle stitching until I had a few stitches of overlap. At that point I lifted my presser foot, turned the project 90 degrees and serged off, leaving a chain. I smoothed out my thread chain and separated the needle thread from the looper threads. Then I tied the needle thread to the looper threads in a knot on the back side and trimmed off the extra thread.

Oops – What to do if you Make a mistake?

If you accidentally miss some loops and leave some holes in your serger crochet, most people find it easiest to go back and hand stitch the holes together after they are done serging.

Fortunately, I only had one oops where I went off the loops on this project. On my second to last row, my foot control got stuck on a drawer under my serger table.  My serger kept serging even though I took my foot off the foot control. My hands couldn’t react fast enough. In that few seconds, I serged right off the edge of my brim! Fortunately, I was able to camouflage the oops. I trimmed my threads leaving a tail. I realigned my needle with the needle threads, a few stitches back from where I accidently serged off. Then I began serging again. Later, I pulled both thread tails to the back and tied them in a knot and trimmed them. With all the ruffles and flouncing, you’d have to inspect very carefully to find the oops! 

I attribute my low number of oops to using a clear foot, serging slowly, pivoting a lot and taking breaks when my eyes got tired. 

Tips on Serger Crochet

Beginning Rows of Serger Crochet

The first several rows of serger crochet are quick and relatively easy. For stitch lengths of 4, 3.5, and 3, I found it fairly easy to use the needle markings on the toe of the foot as my guide for the edge of the loops so I caught all the loops in my stitching. (I used the 1st line on the right as my guide, which is the position of my O2 needle (the right needle). 

Middle Rows of Serger Crochet

As the stitch length gets smaller and you create more and more of a flounce you need to stop more often and reposition the loops. At about a stitch length of 2.5 and 2, I started lining the loops up with a point under the presser foot, closer to the needle than the toe of the presser foot. The point I used was the metal edge of my needle plate that was aligned with my right needle. Because of the curve/wave it was too difficult to force the fabric to to match up with the right most marking on the toe. I did this by watching the loops through the clear presser foot.  I also needed to lift the toe of the presser foot every so often to realign the loops and make sure they were staying flat and not bunching up.  

Last Rows of Serger Crochet

At a stitch length of 1.5 and 1, I had to stop very often and actually raise the presser foot to release the pressure on the thread fabric and keep loops flat and aligned (like every ¼”-½” ).  Also I had to actually watch the needle catch the loops through the clear presser foot. Because of the wave/curve, it was pretty much impossible to keep the edge of the loops aligned with the marks on the presser foot. I lifted the foot and slightly moved the loops into position and then lowered the foot and kept going. I always made sure the needle was down in the loops before I lifted the presser foot.

How Long to Complete?

As you can see from the data below, as the stitch length got shorter, the time to complete the row became a lot longer. This is due to the flounce effect – more distance to cover and more time spent lifting and adjusting loops to keep them aligned and flat because of the sharper and sharper curves. The last few rows took a REALLY LONG time, but that is where most of the volume was created.

  • 30 minutes – 8 rows at SL 4, 4 rows at SL 3.5 and 1 row at SL 3
  • 20 minutes – 3 rows at SL 3, 4 rows at SL 2.5
  • 35 minutes – 4 rows at SL 2
  • 65 minutes – 2 rows at SL 1.5 (I documented 65 minutes but I think I read the clock incorrectly. Based on the next entry I think it should have taken more time)
  • 100 minutes – 1 row at SL 1.5
  • 230 minutes – 1 row at SL 1.0

So it took me about 8 hours to complete the serger crochet on my witch hat. Almost 4 hours of that time was spent on row 28, the last row, at a stitch length of 1.

serger crochet

I could have stopped after row 27 and finished the brim in about half the time, and that hat would have still looked great. It would have been ruffly, but not nearly as ruffly as it was with 28 rows. I’m glad I took the extra time for that last row. I think it’s beautiful! But I will tell you that last row was a little monotonous. I could only serge about 30 minutes of time before I had to take a break.

serger crochet witch hat
serger crochet witch hat
serger crochet witch hat

How to Make a Witch Hat with Serger Crochet

Thanks for following along with my serger crochet witch hat project. Are you inspired to try serger crochet? I hope so!

serging with jen

Resources

Serger Crochet Witch Hat Project from Baby Lock, https://babylock.com/learn-and-create/projects/serger-crochet-witch-hat

General Serger Crochet Tips from Baby Lock, https://babylock.com/learn-and-create/projects/serger-crochet

Tutorial from Wonderfil Specialty Threads – Making Serger Lace Tutorial, https://www.wonderfil.ca/blog/making-serger-lace-tutorial/2/13/2017

How to Draw a Circle with String, https://www.instructables.com/How-to-draw-a-circle-with-string/

If you are interested in more projects, check out the book, Serger Crochet, by Joan Friedrich and Nancy Zieman. Unfortunately the book is out of print. But you may be able to find a used or new copy on the internet or your local shop. 

Scrappy Fabric Pumpkins Make Perfect Fall Decor

I’m very excited to announce that I have released my first “official” serger sewing pattern, Scrappy Fabric Pumpkins. I originally created this design for a class I taught a few years ago. But now as the leaves begin to change colors, I thought it was the perfect time to update my pattern and make it available to you.

Learn to do More with your Serger

If you’ve taken a serger class with me, you know it is not unusual for me to create my own projects to teach. My goal is to create projects that inspire people to want to use their sergers for more than finishing raw edges or creating samples of techniques for a notebook.

Finishing raw edges cleanly with a serger is a great use of the serger. And technique notebooks are important for understanding the potential uses of your serger. But many people never take the next step when it comes to learning their serger. It would be like making a sample of all the stitches your sewing machine can do, but never using the sewing machine to create a project. Maybe one reason this happens is because patterns written specifically for sergers are not nearly as abundant in the marketplace as patterns written for sewing machines. I’m hoping to change that, one serger pattern at a time!

On my blog I have shared a lot of free content and I will continue to do so. However, there are expenses associated with maintaining a blog, and it is my hope that selling patterns written for sergers will generate enough income to cover those expenses and allow me to continue to inspire others to serge. Thanks for your support!

The Scrappy Fabric Pumpkins Pattern

Serge a scrappy fabric pumpkin for fall and learn to use a serger rolled hem stitch for more than napkins, ruffles and scarves. Not only can you create fun decorations for your home, but you can improve your serging skills. Scrappy serger pumpkins are so cute you won’t be able to make just one! Even the tendrils are made with the serger. An empty skinny thread spool makes a great stem. I’ve included lots of color photographs to help you out every step of the way. Happy Fall! 

Follow the link below to take you to the Pattern Section of my Etsy shop – Studio J Sewing. This pattern is available as a PDF file digital download. You can begin serging pumpkins as soon as you checkout!

Purchase the serger sewing pattern, Scrappy Fabric Pumpkins, before October 31, 2020 and save 30% using Etsy coupon code SAVE30PATTERN during checkout.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/studiojsewing?ref=seller-platform-mcnav&section_id=30533440

I’d love to see the finished scrappy fabric pumpkins you made with your sergers! Please share your photos via email to jennifer@overtheedge.blog.

serging with jen

Serge a Set of Pattern Weights

Learn how to serge a set of pattern weights that you will love! My pattern weights are a beginner friendly serger project, but even the most experienced sergist will enjoy making them.

I’ve been using oddball household items as pattern weights for years. If it could hold down a pattern piece it was fair game – old marble coasters, magnetic pin cushions, rulers, canned food, etc. I thought it was time I had some pretty pattern weights. And so an idea was born….

serge a set of pattern weights

My Ideal Pattern Weights

Since I designed these myself, I wasn’t limited to features currently available commercially. I considered what features I would like in a pattern weight and the best way to construct it using a serger. Below is the list of criteria I used to design my ideal pattern weights: 

  • made using only only my serger
  • no hand sewing
  • not too large
  • fairly heavy for its size
  • a handle to make it easy to pick up and move
serge a set of pattern weights

Serger Techniques Used

  • 4 thread overlock stitch
  • locking ends at the beginning and end of a seam
  • wrapped corners technique (Why clip corners to reduce bulk when you can wrap your corners instead!)

Supplies

Here’s what you need to make one pattern weight:

  • 3” x 7” piece of fabric cut into one 3”x3” square and two 2”x3” rectangles
  • 4” piece of ⅜” ribbon
  • 2.5” of ½” wide fusible web like Steam a Seam 2
  • 2 Tablespoons of metal BBs (like the kind you use in a BB gun)

Equipment

  • basic serger, capable of 4 thread overlock stitch
  • 4 cones coordinating thread
  • tool for poking out corners
  • Wonder clips (or pins)
serge a set of pattern weights

Serge a Set of Pattern Weights

I’m very pleased with my pattern weights. I can’t believe I spent all those years using oddball things for weights!

I thought you may enjoy making them too, so I created a tutorial to share with you. If you would like to Serge a Set of Pattern Weights please click on the link below to visit my full tutorial. https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/jens-serger-pattern-weights-tutorial/

serging with jen

Resources

Where to get BBs – 

The “Purr”fect Swimsuit

Several years ago I purchased this fun kitty spandex so I could make my daughter a swimsuit or maybe a pair of leggings. For my daughter’s birthday this year, I finally made her the “purr”fect swimsuit. Summer is here, and the perfect time to serge a swimsuit!

Swimsuits by Serger or Sewing Machine

Although you could use a sewing machine to make a swimsuit, it’s so much more professional looking if you use a serger. The four thread overlock stitch is great for serging seams and applying elastic. The narrow cover stitch is perfect for top-stitching. If you don’t have a cover stitch machine you could use a sewing machine and a zig zag stitch to top-stitch. This is the way I used to do swimsuits and figure skating costumes before I had the cover stitch.

Three Thread or Four Thread Overlock

Technically a three thread overlock is the stretchiest stitch, and is sometimes recommended for stretchy knits. The four thread overlock is almost as stretchy. I typically use the four thread overlock for serging all of my knit garments because I like the added security of the second row of straight stitches. If one row of straight stitching pops, I still have one row to hold the seam together.

Thread

I used Maxilock serger thread in the needles and Guterman Bulky Nylon in the loopers. The texturized nylon is soft next to the skin and really stretchy. Some other brands of texturized nylon thread I use are Maxilock Stretch, YLI Wooly Nylon and Madeira AeroFlock.

Pattern Used for The “Purr”fect Swimsuit – Jalie 3350

jalie 3350

For my daughter’s “purr”fect swimsuit I used Jalie pattern 3350. I combined the twist front from view B with the open back of view A. The pattern didn’t call for lining on the back side, but I added it. The kitty spandex had a white background, and I was afraid it would be too see-through when wet. I also changed the order of construction to minimize changeovers on my serger between overlock and coverstitch. 

This swimsuit pattern was a little more complicated because of the twist at the bust. But the twist was worth the time and fuss because of the extra flair it added to the suit. 

the "purr"fect swimsuit

The pattern also included an extra pocket in the bust lining so you could insert a swim cup for more bust coverage. I bought my swim cups from Sew Sassy. A link to their website is included in the Resources section at the bottom of this post.

the "purr"fect swimsuit

I haven’t seen Jalie patterns in the stores locally, but they are easy to find online. Jalie is a Canadian company. You can also find their patterns in shops on etsy and ebay. I’ve used Jalie patterns many times for swimsuits and figure skating dresses. Their patterns include a ton of sizes, so it’s possible to get a great fit without a lot of pattern modifications. The pattern also gives tips for sewing a swimsuit with a sewing machine. 

Jalie wants you to be successful using their patterns. You will find photo tutorials for different patterns and lots of tips on Jalie’s website. I have included a link to their website in the Resources section at the bottom of this post. 

Applying Elastic to a Swimsuit with a Serger

For this swimsuit, I used ⅜” cotton elastic meant for swimwear. I pre-treated it by soaking in hot water and then drying it in my dryer on low heat. 

Presser Foot

I use a standard presser foot to apply my elastic on my swimsuits. There is such a thing as an elastic foot for a serger, which is great for some applications. But I find it easier to use a standard presser foot for serging the elastic on swimsuits, or for a pattern that calls for applying elastic in the round.  

Quarter Pinning

The most common technique I use for applying elastic by serger is called quarter pinning. I divide both the elastic and the spandex edge into fourths and mark them with pins. Then I pin the elastic to the project aligning the marks.

the "purr"fect swimsuit

Usually the elastic is smaller than the spandex, so you have to stretch the elastic as you serge. Quarter pinning helps you spread out the extra spandex so everything looks nice and even. If the edges are fairly long, I will pin in eighths to be sure I am evenly stretching the elastic to fit my spandex. 

Serge with Elastic on Top or on Bottom?

The most common way I see instructions written for applying elastic by serger is to serge with the elastic on top and your fabric on bottom (against the feed dogs). A tiny little bit of fabric should peek out to the right of the elastic so you are sure you are catching it in the stitches. Sometimes I do it this way. 

apply elastic with a serger

And sometimes I serge with the elastic on bottom against the feed dogs. A little bit of elastic should peek out to the right of the fabric, so you are certain you are catching the elastic in the stitching.

apply elastic with a serger

Sometimes I find it easier to line up the raw edges of the spandex and the elastic as I am stretching it to fit, when the elastic is on bottom. I am less likely to have the spandex migrate away from the elastic and end up with spots not caught in the stitching.

When I made the “purr”fect swimsuit, I applied elastic using both methods.

Engage or Disengage Blades?

I disengage my serger blades when I am using a standard presser foot to apply my elastic, so I don’t cut through my elastic. I am very careful to align the elastic and spandex along the edge where the blade normally cuts. If the fabric and elastic move too far to the right of the blade, they could get caught in the loopers and create a mess. The photo below shows my fabric (on top) and elastic (on bottom next to the feed dogs) lined up just to the left of my cutting blade. The stiletto is pointing to the location of the blades.

the "purr"fect swimsuit

With the blades disengaged, you will need to manually trim the threads from any seam allowances you cross as you serge.

apply elastic with a serger

I also increase my stitch length to 4 so I don’t put too much thread bulk into my seams. You could use a three thread overlock stitch to attach elastic. But I usually use a four thread overlock to attach the elastic because I don’t want to spend the extra time changing between stitches. Since I am usually stretching the elastic to fit the spandex, all the stitching seems closer together when everything relaxes back to its unstretched state.

Serging and Sewing the “Purr”fect Swimsuit

I used my sewing machine to:

  • baste the lining pieces to the main pieces
  • gather a small amount in bust area
  • attach the back closure hook
  • attach the straps at the back edge
  • stitch a few areas of the bust twist
  • attach the elastic to the short front V neckline using a zig zag (The bulk of the twist at the neckline was easier to maneuver through the sewing machine.)

I used my serger to:

  • attach the elastic
  • serge the seams
  • finish any exposed edges
  • top stitch the elastic with a narrow coverstitch

Basting is Helpful for Serging

I baste all of my lining pieces to my main pieces using the longest straight stitch my sewing machine will do (which is 6 mm I think). The basting keeps the layers from shifting when I am serging. Because the fabric stretches a little as I baste, the stitches look a little loose, but that’s ok. These stitches are not seen from the right side of the finished swimsuit. 

When I am done serging the seams, I stretch each seam until I hear the basting stitches pop. After the basting stitches break the seam regains its full stretch-ability. Don’t forget to break the basting stitches or the person putting it on for the first time will pop them and think they ripped the swimsuit. If the basting stitches hang out of the seam too much after popping I will pull some of them out, but mostly I leave them in. No one but me really notices the seams anyway. Most people just notice how good they look in the garment!

Narrow Cover Stitch

I used a narrow cover stitch to top-stitch all of the elastic in the swimsuit. The narrow cover stitch works well for top-stitching ⅜” elastic, and I like the way it looks. 

I used my cover stitch foot to apply the elastic with the needles in the C1/C2 position. The cover stitch foot is narrower and makes it easier to see the right edge of your project. By aligning the right edge of the elastic just past the right edge of the cover stitch foot I get the perfect placement for my narrow cover stitch on 3/8″ elastic. You want to stitch close to the left inner edge of the elastic. If you stitch too close to the outer edge, the wrong side of your elastic will tend to curl out and not lay flat against your body when worn. 

I used a stitch length of 4, which is the longest stitch length on my serger. The stitches end up looking shorter because of the thickness of the elastic and multiple layers of spandex.

narrow cover stitch

A Great Technique for Finishing off a Cover Stitch

This technique has worked with every serger I have tried. It will pull your needle threads to the back at the end of the seam so they are ready to finish off with a knot. It saves time and frustration. See the Resources section at the bottom of the post for a link to my tutorial on Finishing off a Cover Stitch in the Round.

The “Purr”fect Swimsuit

the "purr"fect swimsuit
the "purr"fect swimsuit
the "purr"fect swimsuit

I hope you enjoyed this post and are inspired to serge a little spandex!

serging with jen

Resources

https://jalie.com/jalie3350-one-piece-swimsuit-sewing-pattern  link to Jalie’s Website and pattern.

https://jalie.com/blog/cat/photos  Link to Jalie’s photo tutorials – There are six tutorials on how to make the 3350 swimsuit. I didn’t discover these until after I had made my swimsuit. It would have been helpful for everything but making the twist! Unfortunately the tutorial for the front was only for view A.

https://www.sewsassy.com/BraProducts/bra-and-swim-cups.html Link to source for swim cups.

Serger Sleeve Saver Bib

serger sleeve saver bib

Last week I blogged about the Serger Funsie Onesie that I made for my niece’s baby. This week I made another gift for her baby – a Serger Sleeve Saver Bib. This great bib has sleeves to protect the sleeves of your child’s outfit. The bib is made from stretch terry cloth with ribbing at the cuffs and neckline and bias binding on the edges. The serger is the perfect tool for construction of this bib and to apply the bias binding.  

The Pattern

The pattern instructions for applying the ribbing and constructing the seams are written for a standard four thread overlock stitch on a serger. A sewing machine can also be used. The pattern applies the binding using a sewing machine, but I applied the bias binding with a serger chain stitch using a double fold bias binder. If you don’t have a chain stitch capable serger you could apply the binding with your sewing machine following the instructions in the pattern. You will find a link to the Sleeve Saver Bib pattern in the Resources section at the bottom of this post.

sleeve saver bib pattern

Applique

I used my embroidery machine to applique a cute owl on the front of the bib. If you don’t have an embroidery machine you can apply an applique with your sewing machine. The pattern comes with several shapes for appliques. I purchased the owl applique on Etsy. You will find a link to the design in the resources section at the bottom of this post.

Here is my terry cloth pattern piece with my owl applique already applied. 

Apply Bias Tape 

The bias binding I used for the bib, was the same bias binding I created for the funsie onesie. I set up my serger for a C1 chain stitch and attached my 36mm double fold bias binder.

I’ll be honest with you. I was trying to finish this project quickly and so I just jumped right in without practicing. Not a good idea with stretch terry. The first time I bound the back edge it was a little wavy, so I took it out and tried again with my differential feed set to 1.3. This time the back edge looked good. The straight back edge was fairly easy, but it took me three tries to get the binding right on the sharp curves on the front. Good thing that the chain stitch pulls out easily and I made lots of extra bias strips!

The trick on sharp curves on stretch terry is to go slow. Take a few stitches. Stop with the needle down. Lift the presser foot to release the pressure on the stretch terry. Continue this process until you are through the curve. 

serger double fold bias binder
baby lock double fold bias binder
serger chainstitch
serger chainstitch
serger sleeve saver bib

How to Use a Serger Double Fold Bias Binder Tutorial and Video

For more information on how to use double fold bias binder with a serger check out my tutorial and video:

Adapting ⅝” Seam Allowance for Serger

Seam allowances on the Sleeve Saver Bib pattern are ⅝”. If you are using a sewing machine, the pattern has you trim the seams down to ¼” after they are sewn.

Since I used my serger for all the seams, I just trimmed the allowances down to ¼” as I serged. My serger has markings to the right of the blade that show you where to line up your raw edges of seams with ⅝” seam allowances. If you are unsure of how to trim down a ⅝” seam to ¼” using your serger, you could always trim off the extra seam allowance with your scissors before you serge. Then when you serge you only need to align the raw edges next to the blades. Or you could use a marking pencil to draw the seam allowance on the fabric and align the marks with your needles.

Apply Ribbing

I used a piece of spandex material in place of the ribbing called for in the pattern. 

The cuff pieces were applied first. I cut the pieces 2” longer than stated in the pattern so I had a one inch “grab tab” on each end. It’s not required, but I find it easier to have the extra fabric to hold onto when stretching the ribbing to fit.

If you find it difficult to keep all three layers from shifting as you serge, you can always baste the raw edges of the folded ribbing together before pinning the ribbing to the project. That way you only have to control two layers of fabric instead of three. Basting first with my sewing machine gives me much better results on ribbing. And I spend a lot less time resewing because one layer of fabric slipped away from the seam.  

Next I applied the neck band. I serged the short ends together to make a circle. Then I folded it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and pinned the neck band to the bib. I matched the seam of neck band to center back of neck of the bib. You will need to evenly stretch the ribbing to fit. 

Sleeve Seams

The last step was to serge the sleeve seams. I finished the ends of my seams by locking the ends with my serger. 

Serger Sleeve Saver Bib

Here is a front view and a back view of my finished Serger Sleeve Saver Bib. 

serger sleeve saver bib front
serger sleeve saver bib back

This bib is both cute and practical and the perfect accessory for my serger funsie onesie from last week’s blog post. I can’t wait to see it on my niece’s baby girl! I hope this post inspires you to use your serger more…..

serger sleeve saver bib and funsie onesie
serger sleeve saver bib
serging with jen

Resources

Sleeve Saver Bib Pattern: https://www.sewbaby.com/shopbaby/product_info.php?products_id=3123

Owl applique for machine embroidery from Etsy shop Stitchtopia: https://www.etsy.com/listing/545350124/forest-animals-owl-applique-design-6?ga_search_query=owl&ref=shop_items_search_4&pro=1

Serger Funsie Onesie

Transform an ordinary onesie into a super sweet outfit for a little baby girl! This Serger Funsie Onesie is fun to create using basic stitches on your serger. My niece is having a little baby girl and her nursery theme is owls. I found this cute little owl onesie and knew I could turn it into something special. I can’t wait until the baby is big enough to wear it!

The Funsie Onesie Pattern

The pattern for the Funsie Onesie came from the book, Simple Serging Sewing, edited by Julie Johnson.

simple serger sewing book

The Transformation from Onesie to Sweet Dress

I was amazed at how a few simple additions took this onesie from cute to amazing! Read along and observe the transformation.

Here’s my onesie, skirt fabric and waistband bias strip.

serger funsie onesie

Prepare Strip for Ruffled Skirt

Because my onesie was larger than the one in the pattern, I added 1” to the length of the ruffled skirt piece.

The instructions said to use a plate as a template for rounding the ends of the ruffle strip. I used the plate as a starting point, and then I drew in the rest of the curve in freehand. 

For this project I used a Babylock Imagine serger. I set my serger up for a 3 thread narrow hem to finish the bottom edge of my ruffled skirt. You could also use a 3 thread rolled hem if you like. I used Maxilock thread in a color that matched my fabric.

serger rolled hem

For helpful information on serging with a rolled hem, check out my tutorial on Quick and Easy Serger Napkins. https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/quick-easy-serger-napkins/

Gather Skirt

To gather the ruffled skirt, I used my serger ruffling foot (the G foot for the Babylock Imagine) with a 4 thread overlock stitch. Even though you can use the foot to simultaneously create the ruffle and attach it, I chose to do it in two steps so I could adjust the ruffle to fit the onesie exactly. I set my differential feed to 2, my stitch length to 4 and my stitch width to M. The raw edge of the skirt was just skimmed by the blade as I serged. I also held my finger behind the foot to help it gather just a little bit more. 

If you don’t have a ruffling foot for your serger, you can still use your serger to gather. Follow your instruction manual for gathering. Usually gathering on a serger involves increasing the differential feed and stitch length (and increasing your needle tensions if you have a serger with tension dials.)

gathering with a serger ruffling foot

Here’s what my ruffled skirt piece looked like after gathering it with my serger.

gathering with a serger ruffling foot

Prepare Onesie

Determine where to cut your onesie. My onesie was a 6-9 month size. I cut it apart as stated in the pattern instructions. 

serger funsie onesie

Create Bias Waistband

Next I created the bias waistband strip. The bias fabric strip has a some stretch which makes it a little easier to dress the baby. The waistband also adds back in length that was lost in the seams from adding the skirt to the onesie. So your onesie length will still be the same size as when you started. I used a standard 4 thread overlock stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to serge the ends of the waistband together.

Attach Waistband

I pinned the bias waistband strip to the top half of the onesie, and serged the seam with a standard 4 thread overlock stitch.

serger funsie onesie

Attach Skirt

My onesie waistband measured about 18” around, so I adjusted the gathers of my ruffle to equal 20” (18″ + 2″ for overlap.) My serger didn’t gather the fabric quite as much as I needed. So I adjusted the gathers by first separating the needle threads from the looper threads. And then I pulled on the needle threads and slid the fabric, just like I would using 2 rows of basting stitches on my sewing machine. I overlapped the ends of my ruffled skirt by 1” on each end. 

After adjusting the gathers, I pinned the ruffled skirt to the bottom of waistband, aligning the overlapped section of skirt slightly off center. I serged this skirt to the waistband using a standard 4 thread overlock with a stitch length of 2.5.

serger funsie onesie
serger funsie onesie

Attach Bottom Half to Top Half

After attaching the skirt, the last step was to reattach the bottom half of the onesie. I pinned the onesie panties to the waistband/skirt section, making sure that the side seams of both onesie halves were aligned. To serge this seam, I increased my stitch width as wide as it would go (7.5) and used a stitch length of 2.5. I made this stitch wider than the stitching I used to gather the ruffle, so the gathering stitches on the skirt would not show on the right side of the garment.

serger funsie onesie
serger funsie onesie

Add Finishing Touches

Even though the skirted onesie was adorable, I thought it needed just a little something more. So I hand stitched a few ribbon roses on the waistband and one at the center of the neckline.

serger funsie onesie

My Serger Funsie Onesie

My serger funsie onesie is finished and ready for a sweet baby girl to wear! I hope you enjoyed this post and are inspired to serge.

serger funsie onesie
serger funsie onesie
serging with jen

Resources

Book – Simple Serger Sewing, published in 2009, but found online:

How to make bias strips: https://sew4home.com/how-to-make-your-own-continuous-bias-binding/

Quick video on using the ruffling foot to gather fabric:

Bind a Quilt with a Serger Double Fold Bias Binder

Would you like to learn how to bind a quilt using a serger double fold bias binder? If yes, then keep reading! Although I’ve found several videos and articles about the double fold bias binder and its potential as a tool, the internet seems to be lacking in resources about actual projects made using this attachment. So I thought I would try to fill the gaps by sharing my experiences using the attachment on some of my projects. 

bind a quilt with a serger double fold bias binder

The project featured in this post is my recently designed and completed Watermelon Patio Table Topper Quilt. It’s basically a christmas tree skirt with a summer twist! The opening in the quilt fits around my patio table umbrella. The topper adds a little fun to my outdoor summer dining. In the future I hope to create an actual pattern for my design, but for now I will share with you how I used the serger double fold bias binder attachment to finish the curved edges of the quilt

serger quilt binding

Traditional Double Fold Bias Tape

I love the look of traditional bias bound edges, but I am not always excited about applying folded bias tape using traditional methods. If you use pre-folded bias tape and just slide it over the edge of your project and stitch it down, you risk not catching it on the back side. Or you do catch the back side, but your stitches waver because you didn’t catch the bias tape evenly. And pre-made folded bias tape isn’t available in many colors or prints, so often it is hard to find one that matches your project. Sometimes I do make my own double fold bias tape to coordinate with a project, but I don’t enjoy spending all that time at my ironing board pressing the folds into my bias fabric strips.

Serger Applied Double Fold Bias Binding

Now that I’ve experienced using the double fold bias binder for my serger, I’m in love! The serger double fold bias binder attachment folds your bias fabric and attaches it all in one step, saving you time and giving you professional results. To use this attachment you need to make your own bias fabric strips. This does take a little time, but opens up so many creative possibilities because you are not limited to what is available commercially.

bind a quilt with a serger double fold bias binder

Getting Ready to Bind a Quilt with a Serger Double Fold Bias Binder 

Things you need to get started:

  • Serger, capable of chain stitch or cover stitch
  • Double fold bias binder attachment and attaching screws
  • Bias cut fabric strip
  • Quilt or project to bind
serger double fold bias binder

Things I’ve Learned About the Serger Double Fold Bias Binder

  • Practice. You will be guiding the project with your left hand and the bias fabric strip with your right. Grab some scraps and begin with straight edges. Once you’ve mastered the straight edge, experiment with some curves.  
  • Test your binder alignment and settings before jumping into the project. It’s no fun if you have to readjust after you start applying binding to your actual project.
  • Make sure you keep your project raw edge positioned against the folder. If it migrates away, you may not catch it in the binding.
  • Don’t be afraid to modify the width of your bias fabric strips slightly to achieve better results. I found that I had better results with 1½” bias strips on my project instead of the recommended 1⅜”.
  • You may need to change your needle positions for better results with the chain stitch. I found that using the left needle C1 worked much better for me than the right needle C3.
  • Tweezers are very useful at getting the bias fabric strip into the attachment and under the presser foot.
  • Make more bias fabric strips than you think you will need. That way you are ready if you have to do a lot of testing or make a mistake. If you have extra left over, you can always use it on another project or for more testing.
  • The fewer seams in your bias fabric strip, the better. The extra bulk in the seams can sometimes cause little fluctuations in your stitching.
  • You can’t miter corners with this method of applying binding. You must serge on at the beginning and serge off the end of each edge.
serger quilt binding

Full Tutorial and Video on How to use the Serger Double Fold Bias Binder

If you want all the details on how to use the serger double fold bias binder to bind a quilt or other project click on the link to read my full tutorial at:

I also created a video on how to use a serger double fold bias binder in case you prefer to watch the tool in action. Click on the link below to watch my bias binder video.

Other Examples of Projects with Serger Binding

The serger double fold bias binder attachment is not just for binding quilts.  I’ve used it on other projects such as aprons. The aprons below were bound using my serger and the double fold bias binder. 

Jen’s Basic Serger Bound Apron –  Isn’t this apron cute?! The binding, the ties and the flower on this apron were all done with this tool. Learn how to make this apron in a future project post on my blog.

serger double fold bias binder
serger double fold bias binder

Festive Holiday Apron – This apron was made from Simplicity pattern 8857. I adapted the instructions slightly so I could use my serger double fold bias binder attachment. All of the red binding on this apron was done with this tool. I was really happy with the results!

serger double fold bias binder
serger double fold bias binder

Until the Next Project…

I hope you enjoyed this post about how to bind a quilt using serger double fold bias binder. Hope to see you back at my blog soon!

serging with jen

Resources

https://www.allpeoplequilt.com/how-to-quilt/quilting-basics/machine-minute-evolution-serger-double-fold-bias-binder

Textured Chic Pillows

textured chic pillows
textured chic pillows

I always get excited when I get an opportunity to use the coverstitch on my serger for more than just hems on knits. Although these textured chic pillows may appear advanced, they were actually very easy to make on the serger using a narrow coverstitch and silk dupioni fabric. The secret to the texture is in the special shrinking fabric. I just love how the textured surface of the dupioni silk changes color with the light! 

The Book – Serger Boutique

Both of these pillows were based on projects in the book, Serger Boutique by Nancy Zieman and Barbara Goldkorn. I used the instructions from the Textured Chic Pillow project to construct my green pillow. I constructed my purple pillow using the instructions from the project, Randomly Stitched Texture Pillow.

serger boutique book

Texture Magic

The special shrinking fabric is a synthetic fabric that shrinks when it is steamed. There are two brands that I am familiar with – Texture Magic by Superior Threads and Fabric Magic by Pellon. Sew or serge it to the back of the fabric you want to texturize, apply steam and watch it magically transform. The package says it can shrink up to 30%. I think the amount of shrinkage is dependent on the fabric to which it is stitched.

Shrinkage Test

I wanted to see how much my silk dupioni would shrink, so I would know how much fabric I needed to make my pillows. For my test I started with a square of Texture Magic and of silk dupioni. I drew lines on the piece of Texture Magic and pinned it to my silk. I then stitched on the lines with a narrow coverstitch.  

texture magic and serger

Then came the fun part – the steam!  I hovered over the sample with my iron at full steam and watched the fabric shrink. The result of my test is shown in the photos below. My square started at 12.5” x 12.5” and it ended up at 10” x 11”. So my fabric shrank 12% in one direction and 20% in the other direction. My fabric didn’t shrink quite as much as the “up to 30%”, but the texture was still amazing.

Texture Magic
create texture with serger and texture magic

Embellish the Pillow Fabric

I began by drawing lines on the texture magic for where I wanted to stitch on the green pillow. For the purple pillow I didn’t need to draw the lines because I was stitching randomly. After finishing my lines, I pinned a piece of texture magic to the back side of each piece of dupioni.

I set up my serger for a narrow coverstitch with thread to coordinate with my fabric. I wanted the puffy texture to stand out and not the thread. Maxilock thread was used in the needles and Mettler embroidery thread was used in the chain looper.

So I could see the lines more easily, I used a clear foot, but a standard presser foot would also work. With the Texture Magic side up, I serged on the lines (or randomly) to stitch the Texture Magic to the silk.

create texture with serger and Texture Magic

I have a Babylock Evolution serger, and there is not very much room to the right of the needle. Because I was serging into the center of the fabric, I had to shift and maneuver the bulk of the fabric around the right side of the presser foot. If you have a coverstitch capable serger without a lot of “throat space” you will need to roll and fold your fabric to get it to fit through the machine. Those of you that have sergers like the Babylock Ovation or Babylock Triumph, you will have no problem serging into the center of large pieces of fabric.  

Following the instructions for the texture magic, I steamed the fabric to shrink it and here are close up photos of the resulting texture.

textured chic pillows by serger

Turn the Embellished Fabric into a Textured Chic Pillow

My finished pillows are 12” x 16” and completely made on the serger. I did not make the same size pillows as in the book, but I did follow the basic instructions. Because I wanted to remove my pillow forms for cleaning, I chose to make an overlap back for my pillows. I used a narrow coverstitch to make a 1” double fold hem on each side of the back opening. 

serger pillow project

After embellishing my fabric and doing the hems, I switched my serger to a 4 thread overlock to construct the pillow. While serging the pillow seams, I wrapped the corners to make perfect points on the right side of my pillow. There is no need to trim the extra fabric from the corners with this technique. For more information on how to wrap corners with a serger, check out my His & Hers Serger Pillowcases Tutorial. https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/his-hers-serger-pillowcases-tutorial/

wrap corners with a serger
textured chic pillows

Textured Chic Pillows by Serger

I hope I inspired you to serge your own Textured Chic Pillows!

textured chic pillows
serging with jen

Resources

Serger Boutique – Book was published in 2012. Check your local sewing store, or check the internet, sites like ebay or amazon to get a copy.

Nancy Zieman’s blog about the book, Serger Boutique. http://www.nancyzieman.com/blog/sewing-with-nancy/how-to-use-a-serger/

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