serger quilting Archives

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One Seam Flying Geese with a Serger

Posted on March 27, 2022March 27, 2022 by jghuiz

Since March is National Quilting Month, I thought it fitting to share the latest serger quilting technique that I have been experimenting with – one seam flying geese with a serger.

While I was surfing the internet I came across an interesting YouTube video of Jenny Doan from Missouri Star Quilt Company. She was showing how to create a one seam flying geese block using a sewing machine. I immediately decided that the serger would be a great tool to use for this technique. I couldn’t find any internet resources about using a serger to make a one seam flying geese block. So maybe I am the first person to try it with a serger? Probably not, but it appears I am the first person to blog about it…..

One Seam Flying Geese with a Serger

The one seam flying geese block is a three dimensional block. The block is made from a rectangle and two squares and has just one seam. Each geese block/unit is twice as wide as it is tall. The angled sides (or wings) of the geese are folds in the fabric. This method has no lines to mark, no subcutting, and makes perfect points. How easy is that?!

Pros and Cons of the One Seam Flying Geese Block

Pros

Accurate
Fast
No markings or paper to remove
No bias edges
3D adds texture
Very little waste

Cons

May need or want to stitch down the wings of the three dimensional geese
Some seams are a little thicker due to the folded fabric

Jen’s Experiment with Serged Flying Geese

I pulled a charm pack from my stash. The charm pack was from Boundless Fabrics and called Dutch Garden III. The blues and yellows were so fresh and cheerful compared to our dreary February weather! With a few simple cuts and a little serging, I quickly transformed the 42 squares in my charm pack into 42 flying geese units. Chain piecing the blocks on my serger was quick and easy. I found making them kind of addictive – I just wanted to keep making them!

With a little fabric manipulation, pressing and trimming, I transformed all of the blocks into one seam flying geese.

I Have a Bunch of Flying Geese – Now What?

Most people begin with a pattern when they create a quilt. Sometimes I do too. But not this time. I serged all these geese without a plan for what to do with them. I simply laid out all the blocks and moved them around until I liked the arrangement. These geese decided to become a table runner.

Sashing and Borders

I serged the geese blocks together in groups of two and added sashings and borders.

The Results of my Experiment

From the front side you might think the table runner was sewn with a sewing machine. But from the back side you can see all the neat and tidy serged seams.

My one seam flying geese blocks became my cheerful Spring Migration Table Runner!

The One Seam Flying Geese Block with a Serger

Would you like to try the one seam flying geese block technique with a serger? I thought you might so I created a tutorial just for you! Click the link below to go straight to the tutorial: – https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/serged-one-seam-flying-geese-block-tutorial/

serged one seam flying geese block tutorial

Resources

Serged One Seam Flying Geese Block Tutorial: https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/serged-one-seam-flying-geese-block-tutorial/

Tips for Quilting with a Serger: https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/forty-two-ten-by-jen-serger-quilt-tutorial/

Jenny Doan’s Make a One Seam Flying Geese Quilt Video – https://youtu.be/15Cblb8J6i0

Make a Serger Charm Table Runner

Posted on November 12, 2021November 12, 2021 by jghuiz

Serger Charm Table Runner

I finally completed the official pattern for my Serger Charm Table Runner design. It’s hard to believe that six years have passed since I first taught this design in a serger class. It’s time to get charmed by a serger!

My serger charm table runner quilt is made from charm squares that are pieced together with a serger flatlock stitch. It even has overlock embellished binding. I included all three layouts and applique shapes in the pattern: Winter Skies, Hearts a Flutter and Falling Leaves. And of course, the step by step instructions have lots of diagrams and photographs. Keep reading to learn all about the table runners I made as samples for my pattern.

The Flatlock Stitch and Piecing a Quilt

There are many different ways to use a flatlock stitch. Most involve serging with part of the loops hanging off the edge of the fabric. You need a steady hand (or a special presser foot) and a little practice to get it just right. But with flatlock piecing you don’t need a special foot. Your standard presser foot will work just fine. You guide the raw edges of your fabric next to your blade, and just trim off the stray threads. So the entire stitch lays on the fabric with no overhanging loops.

Flatlock piecing is a great introduction to using a flatlock stitch. For more information visit my tutorial, Master the Three Thread Flatlock Stitch for Quilt Piecing at https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/master-the-three-thread-flatlock-stitch-for-quilt-piecing/

Fabric Charm Squares

Charm squares are 5” squares that are cut from a collection of cotton quilting fabric and sold in packages. There are typically 40-42 squares per pack, but the number can vary. I used one package of charm squares for each of my table runners.

Winter Skies – I used a Northcott Toscana Evening Shadow Chip Pack
Hearts a Flutter – I used a Moda French General Favorites Charm Pack
Falling Leaves – I used a Moda Hello Fall by Sandy Gervais Charm Pack

Both the background squares and the applique squares in my table runners came from the charm packs. The Northcott Toscana charm pack had 5 colors in it with multiples of each fabric. The Moda Hello Fall charm pack had very few repeats. The Moda French General Favorites charm pack had some repeats. You can always add in some applique fabric from your stash if the charm pack doesn’t have the solids or blenders you need for the appliques. I was lucky because the charm packs I chose had just the right amount of blenders for appliques. Or you could always cut your own collection of 5” squares for this table runner.

Quilt Top

The table runners were pieced together using flatlock stitch. I love the look of the flatlock stitches in decorative quilts where the thread can be a focal point. And I love the way it looks with variegated thread. It really adds interest to a quilt. I’ve used both 30 wt and 40 wt variegated cotton threads by Sulky and YLI. The squares with the flatlocked seams look great as a background for applique.

Applique

I had fun designing the applique shapes for this pattern. Real tree leaves were the inspiration for my Falling Leaves table runner. It’s amazing what you can do with real leaves and a copy machine! I learned how to make my own six sided paper snowflakes and picked my favorites to add to my Winter Skies table runner. For the Hearts a Flutter table runner I cut out several different paper hearts from folded paper and tested them on the runner before choosing my favorite.

I used the raw edge applique technique to apply my shapes using a sewing machine. But other forms of applique would also work. If you have a serger with a large throat space you could applique with the chain stitch. You could even machine embroider some of your favorite applique designs on your table runner.

Batting

Choose your favorite. I’ve made mine with thin fusible fleece, cotton quilt batting, and flannel. I like them all, but each is a little different. Flannel is the thinnest. Fusible fleece was a little more “stiff” and cotton quilt batting was the fluffiest. I think the fusible fleece fused to the back side of the quilt top fabric helps to hold the fabric and flatlock stitches in place, but I’ve had good success with all of these battings.

Quilting

You can quilt this table runner with as little or as much quilting as you like, based on your selected batting. Some battings require quilting stitches every 3-4” or some like flannel can be quilted 8-10” apart. My table runners are decorations and are spot cleaned as needed (rarely), so quilting distances are not that important. I did minimal quilting on my table runners so that my variegated thread and flatlock stitches would stand out and be a focal point of the quilts. I quilted my table runners using both a sewing machine and a hand sewing needle.

Binding

Although any method of binding would work for this table runner, I chose to embellish my binding with a three thread overlock stitch. The serger stitches on the binding really help tie together the quilt with the flatlock stitching around the squares. I attached and top stitched the binding to these table runners using a sewing machine, but a serger using a 4 thread overlock and/or a chain stitch would work as well.

Other Ways to Use a Serger for this Project

You can serge a table runner just like mine using the instructions in the pattern. A standard serger capable of a three thread flatlock stitch and a sewing machine are all you need.

Would you like to get more creative with your serger? Here are a few additional ways to use your serger that are not included in the pattern:

Use a rolled hem on the binding instead of an overlock
Attach the binding with a four thread overlock stitch or a chain stitch
Use a chain stitch to top stitch the binding
Stitch your applique using a chain stitch

For tips about quilting with a chain stitch, see my blog post “How to Serge a Quilt with a Chain Stitch” at https://overtheedge.blog/how-to-serge-a-quilt-with-a-chain-stitch/ and my tutorial “Tips for Serging with a Chain Stitch” at https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/tips-for-serging-with-a-chain-stitch/.

Get Charmed by a Serger Today!

If you’d like to try making the Serger Charm Table Runner be sure to visit my etsy shop and get your own copy of my pattern. Use the coupon code SERGERCHARMNOV2021, which will give you a 20% discount on this pattern through November 30, 2021. Click on this link to take you directly to the pattern section of my shop. https://www.etsy.com/shop/studiojsewing?coupon=SERGERCHARMNOV2021

I hope you enjoyed learning about the making of my serger charm table runners.

Resources

Tutorial – Master the Three Thread Flatlock Stitch for Quilt Piecing https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/master-the-three-thread-flatlock-stitch-for-quilt-piecing/

Serger Charm Table Runner Patterns https://www.etsy.com/shop/studiojsewing

Simply Leafy 2

Posted on May 26, 2020May 26, 2020 by jghuiz

I had so much fun making my Simply Leafy 2 quilt that I thought I would share it with you. Simply Leafy 2 is a project from the book, Serge & Merge Quilts. It’s a small wall hanging and is the perfect size to experiment with creative serging. The serger creates the texture in the background and enhances the dimensional stems and leaves. The project showcases serger flatlock stitching, but uses a sewing machine to complete the quilting and binding. If you enjoy creative quilting and you have a serger, you should give this project a try!

Fabric and Thread Choices

I used quilting weight cotton for all the fabric in my Simply Leafy 2 quilt. I selected a brown leafy floral as my focus fabric and off white for the background. Based off the leafy floral fabric, I chose green fabric for the leaves and brown for the stems. The instructions said to use yarn for embellishing the flatlock stitches so I chose a brown perle cotton. I decided on a variegated Sulky Blendables 30 weight thread for the background flatlocking and a variegated YLI quilting cotton thread 40 weight for flatlocking the leaves and stems. I used Maxilock serger thread in the positions that were not visible in the stitches.

Flatlock Background and Create Rectangle Blocks

I randomly pressed lines in my background fabric to mark my folds for flatlocking. Then I created ladder stitching on the folds of fabric using both a narrow and wide two thread flatlock.

I serged each fold, then pulled it open. I pressed all of the flatlock stitching at once after I was finished serging the lines. After flatlocking I used two strands of perle cotton to create extra texture, making knots as suggested. The only change I made here was to add my yarn knots before I cut out the rectangle blocks. Unsecured flatlock stitching unravels easily near the edges, so I thought this change would create less stress on those stitches. When I ran out of yarn, I just cut 2 new pieces and continued where I left off. I fussy cut around the thread tails as I cut out my rectangles, so each rectangle was unique.

Create Leaves and Stems

For flatlocking my leaves, I put the variegated thread in my needle. I wanted the variegated thread to show on my leaves. After flatlocking the leaf strip on my serger, I traced the leaf pattern onto the fabric. I then completed making the leaves on my sewing machine.

For finishing the stems, I set the serger up for a two thread overlock. The two thread overlock is basically the same stitch as the two thread flatlock, but you don’t open the seam. I put variegated thread in the lower looper because the loops ended up on the right side of my stems.

Piece Together Background

After serging the leaves and background, I converted my serger to a four thread overlock stitch. I used the four thread overlock stitch to serge the background rectangles together. I handled the rectangles carefully to keep the cut flatlock stitches from unraveling before piecing them together.

Quilt with Sewing Machine

I layered my backing, batting and top of my quilt sandwich and quilted the background using a sewing machine. My quilting was simple. I stitched lines between my lines of flatlocking and outlined some of the leaves in the brown rectangles.

Add Stems and Leaves

After the background was quilted, it was time to add the stems and leaves. I auditioned my stems and leaves on the background until I was happy with the layout. Then I stitched them all down with my sewing machine. Since the top leaf hangs off the edge, it was easier to stitch it on after the binding was applied. One of the things I really like about this project are the three dimensional stems and leaves!

Add Binding and Finish

The instructions have you use two different colors of binding. I bound the top, bottom and right side of my quilt with off-white and the left side with brown. I attached my binding to the front of quilt, and then flipped it to the back. To secure the binding, I stitched in the ditch on the front side with my sewing machine. I also added a hanging sleeve on the back

Flatlocking on the Fold

You typically see serger stitching on seam lines and fabric edges. But flatlocking is not limited to seams or fabric edges. You can flatlock on a fold and create decorative stitching within the body of your garment or project.

Flatlocking is a technique you can do with your standard presser foot. However, a foot with a guide, such as a blind hem foot, will make flatlocking easier.

The flatlock stitch is reversible. Which means you can use either side of this stitch in your projects. I like both the “loop” side and the “ladder” side of the flatlock stitch. To see the loops on the right side of your fabric you fold it with the wrong sides together. To see the ladders on the right side of your fabric you fold it with the right sides together.

When you flatlock on the fold, you serge with the loops hanging off of the fabric. You must guide your fabric so that the fold is about halfway between the needle and the blade. (See photo below.) Without the extra thread in those loops, you won’t be able to pull open the stitch to make it flat. If you have too much fabric in the stitch you won’t be able to fully open it. The stitch will look lumpy on one side and like a tunnel on the other. If you get too little fabric in the stitch you will have loose and floppy stitching.

I recommend you practice flatlocking on the fold before you begin this part of your project. Sharon provides some information about flatlocking on page 16 of her book. Your serger manual will instruct you how to set up and perform a flatlock stitch with your machine.

Simply Leafy 2

I hope you enjoyed my post about the creation of my Simply Leafy 2 wall hanging quilt.

Check out another fun project called Down the Pathway that I made from the book, Serge & Merge Quilts. https://overtheedge.blog/serge-and-merge-quilts-down-the-pathway/

Resources

Serge & Merge Quilts by Sharon Rotz. This book was published in 2009. If you can’t find it in your local shop, try the internet. https://www.amazon.com/Serge-Merge-Quilts-Create-Nancy/dp/0896898105

Serge and Merge Quilts – Down the Pathway

Posted on March 30, 2020April 1, 2020 by jghuiz

Down the Pathway is a project from the book, Serge and Merge Quilts, by Sharon V. Rotz. As she says in her intro to the project “Have fun displaying your serging talents as you construct a tulip garden with dimensional flowers and leaves.” And I sure did! This quilt was fun to make!

I love my Down the Pathway quilt. It makes me happy! Every time I look at my quilt I think of a beautiful spring day. I serged it with a combination of flatlock, rolled hem and overlock stitches and merged it with traditional quilting on a sewing machine.

Fabric Prep

I chose an ombre purple batik fabric for my tulips and an ombre green batik for my stems, leaves and borders. The ombre fabrics gave me the perfect variety of colors for my tulips, greenery, borders and binding. The bottom border (or ground) was a coordinating green batik. I used a light green batik as the background (sky). The photo shows how I fussy cut my leaves, stems, borders and binding from the green ombre batik.

Create Background

The first step I took in creating the background of this quilt was to serge my “stems” using a flatlock stitch on the fold of the fabric. I serged some stems with the ladder side up and some with the loop side up. I used a variegated Madeira Polyneon thread for my flatlock stitches.

Flatlocking on the fold is a little different than flatlock piecing. By folding the fabric you can place the flatlock stitch in the center of the fabric rather than only on the edge. When you flatlock on the fold, you serge with the loops hanging half off of the fabric, which allows your fabric to lay flat when the stitch is pulled open. I recommend you practice flatlocking on the fold before you begin this part of your project. It takes a little more skill to get a nice even stitch than does flatlock piecing. Flatlock piecing is used to join two pieces of fabric and it is placed on the edge of the fabric. Sharon provides some information about flatlocking on page 16 of her book.

After finishing the flatlock “stems” I added the top and side borders. I did not miter my borders as is instructed in the book. Using a sewing machine, I quilted this piece to the batting/backing along each of the flatlock stems.

Create Tulips

I serged the edges of the tulips using a 3 thread rolled hem stitch with Madeira Polyneon embroidery thread in the upper looper. To create the three dimensional tulips, I gathered the bottoms by hand with a running stitch and a strong thread .

Layout, Fuse and Quilt Greenery and Attach Tulips

After laying out my stems and leaves in a pleasing arrangement, I fused them down with an iron and pressing sheet. The pressing sheet both protected my iron from the fusible web and my thread from the heat of the iron. After fusing, I stitched down the raw edges of the stems and leaves using a sewing machine. I left some leaves 3 dimensional, as it says in book. After finishing the leaves and stems, I hand stitched a tulip at the top of each stem.

Add Bottom Border

I added the bottom border after the tulips and greenery were attached to the batting and backing.

Machine Quilt Borders

I used a swirly leaf pattern for the free motion machine quilting of my borders, as you can see from the back side of my quilt in the photo below.

Add Binding and Finish

I used my rotary cutter and a ruler to trim and square my quilt sandwich before adding binding.

I chose to use two different parts of the green ombre batik fabric for my binding. The light colored green was the perfect choice for the top and right edge binding. And I used the darker green for left and bottom binding.

To finish the quilt, I added a hanging sleeve, which you can see pinned on the right side of the photo.

All done!

Down the Pathway Details

I included a few close up photos of the tulips, leaves and background flatlock stitching so you can better see the details.

Down the Pathway Class

I taught this as a class at my local fabric store. The class covered only the serger portion of the project (flatlocking, overlocking and rolled hem). Students did the rest on their own at home. A few of the students allowed me to share photos of their Down the Pathway quilts. Aren’t they beautiful. Spring is in the air!

A Few Final Words

It’s never too late to change something. After I finished the quilt, I stepped back to admire it from a distance. Everything looked great except one area of the background. My eyes kept being drawn to an area of the background that was a too dense with flatlock stems. I ended up removing one stem of flatlock stitches, and now I think it’s perfect! Can you spot the change?

Serge and Merge Quilts – Down the Pathway

The book, Serge & Merge Quilts was published back in 2009. After eleven years, it may be unavailable from your local store. If you can’t find a copy at the store, try the internet.

In case you would like to learn more about the author and Serge and Merge Quilts – Down the Pathway, here is a link to Sharon’s blog post. http://sharonrotz.blogspot.com/2013/04/tulips-springing-up.html

The Down the Pathway quilt is just one of several projects I have completed from Sharon’s book, which I will share with you in the future. I hope you enjoyed this post!

Flatlock Piecing With a Serger

Posted on March 24, 2020October 21, 2020 by jghuiz

It’s still March and National Quilting Month, so here I am highlighting another way to use a serger to quilt. Flatlock piecing with a serger is a great way to add an artistic flair to your quilts. With a serger flatlock stitch, you are embellishing your quilt with decorative thread as you piece it together. The photos in this post are of my Four Square Table Runner that I made in 2014. This table runner is one of my favorite serger quilts I have made!

My Four Square Table Runner

My table runner is a great example of how easy it is to modify a traditional quilt pattern for serger construction.

Fabric, Pattern and Thread

I used a package of forty 5” squares called Tonga Treats by Timeless Treasures. The “Four Square Table Runner” pattern came free in the package. I don’t know if this fabric is still available, but you can do this technique with any fabric or quilt pattern.

I used a variegated purple YLI machine quilting thread in the needle and Maxilock serger thread in the loopers.

Serging

I followed most of the pattern instructions to make the quilt top, except for using a sewing machine. Instead, I pieced the quilt together with my serger using a three thread flatlock stitch with a length of 2. I serged the pieces right sides together, so the “ladder” side showed after pulling the flatlock stitches open.

I added a border, which I also attached with the flatlock stitch. Instead of a traditional quilt sandwich, I used a flannel fabric as batting. and attached the backing using the pillowcase or “birthing” method (without binding). I serged the layers together leaving an opening for turning right sides out. After turning and pressing, I hand stitched the opening closed and hand tacked the layers together invisibly at the corners of the blocks. I wanted the decorative thread and the flatlock stitching to be the center of attention.

What is a Serger Flatlock Stitch?

A flatlock stitch can be used to seam two fabrics together and to add detail to a seam line. It has unbalanced tensions that allow you to pull open the seam so it lays flat. Typically the needle thread tension is very loose and the lower looper tension is tight. The flatlock stitch is also reversible. It forms a “loop” stitch on one side of the fabric and a “ladder” stitch on the other side of the fabric. If you serge a seam with the fabrics right sides together, you will end up with a ladder stitch on the right side. The “ladder” you see is the needle thread. If you serge a seam with the fabric wrong sides together you will end up with a “loop” stitch on the right side. The “loop” you see is the looper thread. The example below show the ladder and the loop sides of two maple leaf quilt blocks that I made when I was practicing flatlocking.

What is Serger Flatlock Piecing?

When you sew your pieces together to form a quilt block, it is referred to as “piecing”. When you piece with a sewing machine the stitches made by a sewing machine are hidden within the seam. Flatlock piecing with a serger is piecing your quilt blocks together with a flatlock stitch. The stitch used in flatlock seams is very visible in the finished quilt. You can use the standard serger presser foot for this technique.

Video – Flatlock Piecing With a Serger

For all you visual learners out there I created this short video of the flatlock stitch in action. https://overtheedge.blog/videos/flatlock-piecing-with-a-serger/

How to Easily Remove a Three Thread Flatlock Seam

Tips for Flatlock Piecing With a Serger

Follow the instructions in your manual for setting your serger up for a flatlock stitch. There are different types of flatlock stitches (2 or 3 thread, wide or narrow). I typically use a three thread flatlock for piecing quilts.
For piecing a quilt with a flatlock stitch, I keep the blade engaged and run the raw edge of my fabric along the blade. I don’t really cut anything off, I just trim stray threads.
Always test your serger set-up on a scrap of fabric and adjust as needed, before you begin serging your actual project. The actual tension settings and stitch length needed will vary with different threads and fabrics.
Leave a few inches of thread tail at the end of each seam. By leaving long tails you will prevent your seams from unraveling until you have a chance to secure them.
Press your flatlock seams flat before pulling them open. I feel it helps the fabric within the seam fold properly during the opening process. After pulling the seams open, I press them again.
Your finished blocks may be a little larger than they would be using a sewing machine. The process of opening of the seam allowance changes the size of the seam allowance slightly.
I use the three thread flatlock stitch in smaller projects like table runners and wall hangings. Flatlock stitches are more exposed and tend to snag more easily, so I don’t typically use this stitch for quilts that will get a lot of wear.
Set your iron temperature appropriately for the thread you use in your flatlock stitch, or use a press cloth. Since the thread sits on the surface of your fabric it has more exposure to the heat of the iron. It is possible to melt the thread in your serger stitches – I know from personal experience!

Are you Inspired?

I hope you enjoyed this post and are inspired to try flatlock piecing with a serger.

Quilt with a Serger

Posted on March 17, 2020April 5, 2020 by jghuiz

Since March is National Quilting Month and I love my serger, I thought I would show you how simple it can be to quilt with a serger. To inspire you to try it, I designed my own pattern. My challenge was to design a quilt that was quick and easy to piece using a serger and used only one layer cake of fabric. I named my design, “Forty Two Ten by Jen”. Simple and catchy don’t you think?

Layer Cakes and Other Precuts

I frequently use precuts for my quilts because I don’t have to stress over choosing coordinating fabrics. Precuts come in many different shapes and sizes such as layer cakes, charm packs and jelly rolls. I believe Moda was the first to create the “layer cake” which is basically a package of 42 ten inch squares that all coordinate. Using the word “layer cake” to describe a package of 42 ten inch squares is like calling all brands of facial tissue “Kleenex”. These packages of ten inch squares go by names such as Moda Layer Cakes, Riley Blake Ten Inch Stackers, and Bali Crackers.

A Little Information About my Quilt

For my quilt I used Riley Blake’s, Azure Skies Ten Inch Stacker, designed by Simple Simon and Company.

I am happy to say that my Forty Two Ten by Jen serger quilt is a zero waste quilt, which means it uses every single piece of fabric with no scraps. Those little scraps that are leftover from projects always create a small amount of anxiety for me. Should I throw them away or keep them for another project? If I throw them away I feel guilty. If I keep them I usually can’t find them when I need them. Does anyone else ever feel this way? No need to worry because this quilt has no leftover scraps – yay!

Equipment Required

This project does not require a fancy serger. As long as your serger can do a 4 thread overlock stitch, you can use it to make this quilt. However, not everyone is lucky enough to own a serger, so I also included instructions for how to piece this quilt on a sewing machine. I hope you enjoy quilting with your serger using my free pattern “Forty Two Ten by Jen”.

Tutorial and Printable Instruction Sheet

Click the link to go to my tutorial and printable instruction sheet. https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/forty-two-ten-by-jen-serger-quilt-tutorial/

National Quilting Month: Texture Quilting with your Serger

Posted on March 3, 2020March 3, 2020 by jghuiz

March is National Quilting Month and is the perfect month for me to blog about quilting with your serger. Texture Quilting with your Serger is about stepping out of your comfort zone and experimenting with all your serger can do.

My Inspiration

My quilt is made up of all 15 different technique blocks from the book Power Serge, by Pam Damour and Betty Mitchell. I love all the texture that the serger adds to the quilt. To make all 15 blocks you must have a few accessory feet and be able to do both overlock and coverstitch. If your serger does overlock only, there are 7 technique blocks that you can serge. The blocks can be used to make a reference book of techniques or make a project. The book has a section called “all squared away” where they give instructions for quilts, table runners and pillows made from the technique blocks.

My Textured Block Quilt

Instead of placing my block on point like the quilt projects in the book, I chose a traditional layout with sashing. The blocks were trimmed to 6.5” square and assembled into 3 columns and 5 rows. I cut 2” wide sashing strips to use between my blocks and as a border. The overall size of my wall hanging quilt is approximately 24” x 39”. I used the four thread overlock stitch on my serger to piece the quilt top together.

Some of my favorite blocks to make were the serger lace, the basket weave, the ric rac rope and the stitch and scrunch.

All Squared Away Class

I taught a class at my local fabric store using the overlock technique blocks from the Power Serge book. Below are photos of some of the blocks made by my students. It’s amazing how different they all look! My student’s favorite blocks to serge were the serger lace and the decorative trim block with the beads.

In Conclusion

Are you looking to expand your horizons and to better utilize your serger? If so, I recommend you get yourself a copy of the book, Power Serge, and get serging! If you can’t find the book at your local sewing or quilting store, you can purchase it directly from the author’s website at https://www.pamdamour.com/product/power-serge-by-pam-damour-and-betty-mitchell-hard-cover-book/

The block techniques are a great place to begin, but this book has much more to offer. Also included in Power Serge is a section of great finishes, clutches and covers, all squared away and just for fun. I will definitely be making more projects from this book.