over the edge

Triaxial Weaving with a Serger Belt Loop Binder

Posted on April 27, 2020April 27, 2020 by jghuiz

If you have a serger with a cover stitch and a belt loop binder attachment you are going to love this post, Triaxial Weaving with a Serger Belt Loop Binder. A new way to create quick and easy fabric strips for weaving into your own custom fabric! No more making fabric strips on the bias and no more burning your fingers while ironing the folded strips!

Serger Belt Loop Binder Attachment

Baby Lock has a specialty serger attachment called a Belt Loop Binder, which comes in two sizes (1.5” and ¾”). Other manufacturers may have something similar. The belt loop binder is designed to be used with a cover stitch.

I’ve seen it used to make belt loops, handles, straps, and bracelets. Belt loops and straps are very useful. But making your own woven fabric from these strips is way more exciting and is another perfect application for this attachment. And you don’t have to make bias strips for this weaving to work. You can cut strips by the width of the fabric (selvage to selvage), feed them into bias binder attachment on your serger, and quickly make fabric strips ready to weave into cool designs! This method is so much faster than cutting traditional bias fabric strips and standing at the ironing board pressing the edges under. And since it works on the cross grain, you don’t have to spend time creating the bias strips of fabric. I love my serger!!!

Modern Fabric Strip Weaving

Fabric strip weaving is becoming a popular activity. I first saw a bias fabric strip triaxial weaving project in a Sew News magazine (Feb/Mar 2017)

The article/project was titled “Take It or Weave It” was written by Tara Curtis, of Wefty. She invented a tool called the Wefty Needle to help make fabric strip weaving much easier. Bias fabric strips are made and then folded and pressed into bias tape. Then the bias tape is woven into fabric. Of course when I saw the project my first thought was “how can I use my serger to make this easier!”

Tools for Weaving

I purchased a set of Wefty needles from Tara. They work well for weaving ½” folded fabric strips and 1” folded fabric strips made with bias strips the traditional way. However, the Wefty Needles don’t work as well for serger belt loop binder strips. The tool was just a little too wide for the ¾” strips made from the 1.5” belt loop binder. It was hard for me to get through the tight weave of the third row of the triaxial weave. If the Wefty Needle was available in a ¾” or ⅜” it would be perfect for using with fabrics strips made with babylock belt loop binders!

I ended up using a bodkin (for inserting elastic or cord into a casing) to help me weave that 3rd row. The Wefty needle would have worked better than the bodkin if it were the right size for the ¾” strips. Recently, I found a ¾” elastic threader by Dritz that I am going to try on my next project. For other tools needed for fabric strip weaving see the Resources section at the bottom of the post.

Weaving Types

Basic or simple weaving occurs in 2 directions (biaxial at 90 degree angles to each other). Some forms of basic weaving you may be familiar with include plain weave, satin weave, twill weave, basket weave. Triaxial weaving occurs in 3 directions (triaxial 60 degree angles to each other). You can make some really nice weaving projects with basic weaving, but I think there is something special about triaxial weaves. I have included some links to resources about weaving at the end of this post.

Jen’s Triaxial Weaving with a Serger Belt Loop Binder

The Sew News article did inspire me to try fabric strip weaving, even though I didn’t make the basket that was in the article. Following the basic instructions in the article, I created my triaxial weave using fabric strips made on my serger with the 1.5” belt loop binder attachment. I then used the new “fabric” to construct this bucket from Simplicity pattern 8859 (I did make a few minor modifications to the pattern for this fabric basket/bucket). I really enjoyed triaxial weaving so I had to do more of it. After one project I was hooked!

I really like the look of “stars” in triaxial weaving, so I decided that would be my next project. I figured out how to weave the stars after some trial and error and a little research on the internet. It probably would have been faster to purchase a pattern from Wefty to show me how to do it, but I wouldn’t have learned so much about weaving! Like with the fabric bucket project, I used the 1.5” belt loop binder attachment to make my strips. Then I made a pillow from the triaxial weave “stars” fabric that I created. This pillow was constructed on the serger, including using a cording foot to install the zipper. The pillow pattern I created may be included in my blog in the future.

Tutorial – Setting Up and Using a Serger Belt Loop Binder

I created a tutorial and a video to help you be successful using the belt loop binder attachment with your serger. You will find the links below.

How to Use a Serger Belt Loop Binder to Make Folded Fabric Strips for Weaving

Hope you enjoyed learning about triaxial weaving with a serger belt loop binder!

Resources for Fabric Strip Weaving

Here are a few internet sites and youtube videos for you to check out if you would like to learn more about the process of weaving with fabric strips.

Tara Curtis of Wefty

Website: www.weftyneedle.com

https://weftyneedle.com/blog/2016/8/26/tools-for-weaving-updated

Tumbling Blocks Mad Weave Tutorial Video by Wefty – https://youtu.be/6xlUirFs0Kg

https://youtu.be/6xlUirFs0Kg

Mathew Boudreaux of Mister Domestic

Website: www.misterdomestic.net

https://misterdomestic.net/2017/12/29/fundamentals-of-fabric-weaving/

Fundamentals of Fabric Weaving Video by Mister Domestic – https://youtu.be/vlGt5Mxs2M0

If you want to get Tara’s fabric bucket pattern from the Sew News magazine, click on the link below to get more information.

https://www.interweave.com/product/sew-news-february-march-2017-digital-edition/

Serger Trim Catcher & Mat

Posted on April 16, 2020April 16, 2020 by jghuiz

What happens to the fabric and thread you trim off as you serge? Does it end up on your lap, your table, your floor or stuck to your project? Spend less time cleaning up and more time serging with Jen’s Serger Trim Catcher & Mat!

Use a serger trim catcher to keep fabric and thread trimmings out of your lap

The first serger I ever owned had a plastic catch bin that attached to the front cover. It worked well for catching small bits of thread. But if you were cutting off much fabric there was a problem. The catch tray would cause the trimmed fabric to flip up into the loopers and get caught in my stitching. After a few mishaps, I removed the bin and let the trimmings fall to the table or my lap. Eventually I grew tired of all the “hitch hikers” that seemed to travel all over my house as they fell from my clothes. I needed a solution.

My solution was to use my serger to make a simple trim catcher mat that was easy to clean and non-slip, so that my serger didn’t vibrate around on my table. After experimenting with a few ideas, I came up with a working prototype that met all my requirements. And to celebrate National Serger Month, I thought I would share my design with you.

The Design of Jen’s Serger Trim Catcher & Mat

I chose oil cloth for its smooth wipeable surface and its substantial “weight”. The serger trimmings wipe easily into the pocket on the front and are easy to scoop out and throw away.
Grip shelf liner (or rug grip) seemed like a good material to keep my serger from vibrating around the table as I worked.
The design should be simple and easy to construct.
I didn’t want any extra pockets to hold tools on the front of my catcher. Having tools right in front of me is like asking them to get caught in my project while I serge. I prefer to have a tray on the table next to my machine to hold my accessories.
The Evolution was my first serger with Babylock’s exclusive wave stitch and the trim catcher was my first project on that serger. I just had to use the wave stitch to embellish the outer edges of the trim catcher and mat!
This mat works well for 4 thread overlock machines and smaller 8 thread overlock machines like the Babylock Evolution.
Finished size of Jen’s Serger Trim Catcher & Mat – 15” x 18”.

Serging with Oil Cloth and Grip Liner

The only reason I didn’t put “easy” in the title of this project is because of the challenge of working with my chosen fabric. Both the grip liner and the oil cloth are “grippy” and can stick to the bed of your machine or table. I wasn’t sure that I could successfully serge the grip shelf liner and the oil cloth together, but the Babylock Evolution handled it beautifully! As I serged, I made sure the grip layer on the bottom was well supported and not catching on my machine or table. Be certain to test the combination of grip shelf liner and oil cloth layers with your serger. If your serger doesn’t like feeding the grip shelf liner you could always glue it to the underside of the oil cloth after you have completed the serging steps.

Pocket Support

The first catcher I made did not include a dowel or boning for support of the pocket edge. It worked fine, but the pocket edge became a little droopy over time. So in my other versions, I tried a ¼” thick wooden dowel, and a piece of plastic boning (used in clothing for support). Both work well to support the upper edge of the trim catcher pocket. As you can see in the photo below, the pocket with the dowel is more rigid and the pocket with the boning is more flexible.

The Wave Stitch

The wave stitch looks best with thick decorative thread and serged onto the edge of a stable material that will not pucker under the weight and width of the stitching. It’s a stitch with oscillating tensions that creates a “wave” with the upper and lower looper threads. The wave stitch is exclusive to Babylock. If you don’t have the ability to do the wave stitch, you could embellish the edges of your serger trim catcher & mat with a three thread overlock.

close up of babylock wave stitch on serger trim catcher & mat — Wave Stitch

Jen’s Serger Trim Catcher & Mat Tutorial

Are you ready to make a serger trim catcher for yourself? Go for it! Click on the link below for the full tutorial.

Jen’s Serger Trim Catcher & Mat Tutorial

Other Resources

Check out the YouTube video below to learn all about the Babylock Wave Stitch.

Serge a Flag with a Flatlock Stitch

Posted on April 7, 2020April 14, 2020 by jghuiz

It’s April now, and in a typical year I would be celebrating National Serger Month. In the last few weeks I have been sewing face masks almost non-stop, and I miss using my serger creatively. So I took a short break from mask production to create a serger project to share with you. I’ve seen on the news that in some places people are clapping and cheering for healthcare workers from their balconies. Others are making signs to show support. Well, I’m going to show you how to serge a flag with a flatlock stitch. Hang it outside or hang it in your window to show your support!

The flag is garden size, about 12” x 18”. I thought about making it larger but I didn’t have any pieces of batik large enough to make a bigger flag. Normally, I would just run out to the store to buy what I needed, but that is a little difficult right now.

The flag is reversible and since both sides of the fabric show in this flag, batiks work well. Solids would work too, but batiks are so much richer. Using black thread gives the effect of stained glass. Who knew you could make stained glass with your serger!

Supplies Used for this Flag

Red batik remnant at least 6” x 13”
Light colored batik remnant at least 7” x 16”
Blue batik remnant at least 10” x 26”
Black thread – 1 spool of sulky solids 12 wt (or other thick thread) and 2 cones of Maxilock serger thread
Serger, capable of 3 thread flatlock stitch
Rotary cutter, mat and ruler
Hanging rod
Tool for securing thread tails (large eyed needle or other tool)

Serger Set Up and Testing

I set my serger up for a 3 thread narrow flatlock stitch with the widest width. I used a spool of black Sulky Solids 12 weight cotton in my upper looper and black cones of Maxilock serger thread in my needle and lower looper. The Sulky Solid would have been good to try in the needle too. It would have made the ladder side of my flatlock stitches stand out more. But since I only had one spool, I went with the Maxilock thread instead.

Using scraps of fabric, I tested my stitch settings. After trying a few different stitch lengths, I decided on a stitch length of 1.5 to create my stained glass effect. I serged my samples with the wrong sides together, so the more dense loop side would be on the right side.

Flatlock Piecing on your Serger Video

Watch my short video on flatlock piecing if you would like to see the technique in action.

Serger Flatlocked Heart Flag – Link to Tutorial

Click on this link to view my full tutorial for serging this stained glass heart flag using the flatlock stitch. https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/serger-flatlocked-heart-flag/

Serger Flatlocked Heart Flag

Flag Front Side and Back Side

This photo shows the front side and the back side of the reversible flag. The stained glass look is more pronounced on the front side with the loops and the heavier thread.

Close Up View of Stitching

Serge a Flag with a Flatlock Stitch

I hope you enjoyed this post and are inspired to serge a flag with a flatlock stitch. Hang it proudly and show your support of all the workers on the front line of this pandemic!

How to Make Spandex Cord for Your Face Mask

Posted on April 2, 2020April 2, 2020 by jghuiz

In response to our current pandemic, like many sewists out there, I have been making face masks to distribute to family, friends, nursing homes, and other places. However, thin elastic has become difficult to find. When I ran out of elastic, I thought what do I do now? After experimenting with scraps of spandex with great success, I decided I needed to share my solution with you. If you have access to any spandex type fabrics, you can use them to learn How to Make Spandex Cord for Your Face Mask.

I have a huge stash of spandex scraps from various figure skating and colorguard costume projects that I have worked on over the years. I was so happy to finally put those scraps to good use! After a little bit of trial and error I came up with this ¼” elastic substitution for my face masks. I call it “spandex cord”. My daughter has been wearing these face masks a lot, and she says the spandex cord is much more comfortable on the ears than regular elastic.

Cut Spandex into Strips

It’s pretty simple to make. Cut ⅜” wide crosswise strips from your spandex fabric (selvage to selvage.) You can cut pieces about 8-9” long or cut across the entire width and subdivide into individual pieces later.

Grab Both Ends and Pull

Grab both ends of the strip and give it a firm pull. Watch, like magic, as the edges of the spandex strip curl and the strip turns into a stretchy piece of spandex cord. If your strip doesn’t curl, try cutting your strips parallel to the selvage instead of crosswise. Let the spandex cord “relax” for a few minutes before you cut it to size. It may shrink up a small amount after all the stretching and curling.

Cut to Size and Apply to Face Mask

You will need to experiment with your mask pattern to determine how much cord you need to be comfortable wearing your face mask. On my face mask pattern I use 7.5” of spandex cord for each ear (and 9.75” of ¼” elastic). So I actually use a shorter piece of spandex than I would for elastic.

Jen’s Face Mask Pattern

If you are interested in trying the face mask pattern that is shown in this blog post, go to https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/jens-face-mask-tutorial/

It’s pretty easy to make, but don’t be scared off because of the length. It’s a long tutorial because I included a ton of photos to make it easier to understand. I use a serger for finishing the edges in a couple of steps (or you could use a zig zag stitch on a sewing machine.) The mask is mostly made on a sewing machine.

I tried several different face mask patterns, and I find this one to be the most comfortable for my face. I also included information on how I wash my face masks in the tutorial.

Video – How to Make Spandex Cord for Your Face Mask

Follow along with me as I will show you how to make spandex cord for your face mask in my YouTube video below.

Disclaimer

Make and wear fabric masks at your own discretion. I’m trying to help where I can, just like everyone else. I am definitely not an expert in anyway in face mask protection. Face masks made from this pattern are not considered personal protective equipment (PPE) and may not protect you from pathogens. I have included links to the CDC and other sources about face masks in my full tutorial.

Keeping the world healthy, one face mask at a time.

Happy Sewing and Serging!

Jen

Serge and Merge Quilts – Down the Pathway

Posted on March 30, 2020April 1, 2020 by jghuiz

Down the Pathway is a project from the book, Serge and Merge Quilts, by Sharon V. Rotz. As she says in her intro to the project “Have fun displaying your serging talents as you construct a tulip garden with dimensional flowers and leaves.” And I sure did! This quilt was fun to make!

I love my Down the Pathway quilt. It makes me happy! Every time I look at my quilt I think of a beautiful spring day. I serged it with a combination of flatlock, rolled hem and overlock stitches and merged it with traditional quilting on a sewing machine.

Fabric Prep

I chose an ombre purple batik fabric for my tulips and an ombre green batik for my stems, leaves and borders. The ombre fabrics gave me the perfect variety of colors for my tulips, greenery, borders and binding. The bottom border (or ground) was a coordinating green batik. I used a light green batik as the background (sky). The photo shows how I fussy cut my leaves, stems, borders and binding from the green ombre batik.

Create Background

The first step I took in creating the background of this quilt was to serge my “stems” using a flatlock stitch on the fold of the fabric. I serged some stems with the ladder side up and some with the loop side up. I used a variegated Madeira Polyneon thread for my flatlock stitches.

Flatlocking on the fold is a little different than flatlock piecing. By folding the fabric you can place the flatlock stitch in the center of the fabric rather than only on the edge. When you flatlock on the fold, you serge with the loops hanging half off of the fabric, which allows your fabric to lay flat when the stitch is pulled open. I recommend you practice flatlocking on the fold before you begin this part of your project. It takes a little more skill to get a nice even stitch than does flatlock piecing. Flatlock piecing is used to join two pieces of fabric and it is placed on the edge of the fabric. Sharon provides some information about flatlocking on page 16 of her book.

After finishing the flatlock “stems” I added the top and side borders. I did not miter my borders as is instructed in the book. Using a sewing machine, I quilted this piece to the batting/backing along each of the flatlock stems.

Create Tulips

I serged the edges of the tulips using a 3 thread rolled hem stitch with Madeira Polyneon embroidery thread in the upper looper. To create the three dimensional tulips, I gathered the bottoms by hand with a running stitch and a strong thread .

Layout, Fuse and Quilt Greenery and Attach Tulips

After laying out my stems and leaves in a pleasing arrangement, I fused them down with an iron and pressing sheet. The pressing sheet both protected my iron from the fusible web and my thread from the heat of the iron. After fusing, I stitched down the raw edges of the stems and leaves using a sewing machine. I left some leaves 3 dimensional, as it says in book. After finishing the leaves and stems, I hand stitched a tulip at the top of each stem.

Add Bottom Border

I added the bottom border after the tulips and greenery were attached to the batting and backing.

Machine Quilt Borders

I used a swirly leaf pattern for the free motion machine quilting of my borders, as you can see from the back side of my quilt in the photo below.

Add Binding and Finish

I used my rotary cutter and a ruler to trim and square my quilt sandwich before adding binding.

I chose to use two different parts of the green ombre batik fabric for my binding. The light colored green was the perfect choice for the top and right edge binding. And I used the darker green for left and bottom binding.

To finish the quilt, I added a hanging sleeve, which you can see pinned on the right side of the photo.

All done!

Down the Pathway Details

I included a few close up photos of the tulips, leaves and background flatlock stitching so you can better see the details.

Down the Pathway Class

I taught this as a class at my local fabric store. The class covered only the serger portion of the project (flatlocking, overlocking and rolled hem). Students did the rest on their own at home. A few of the students allowed me to share photos of their Down the Pathway quilts. Aren’t they beautiful. Spring is in the air!

A Few Final Words

It’s never too late to change something. After I finished the quilt, I stepped back to admire it from a distance. Everything looked great except one area of the background. My eyes kept being drawn to an area of the background that was a too dense with flatlock stems. I ended up removing one stem of flatlock stitches, and now I think it’s perfect! Can you spot the change?

Serge and Merge Quilts – Down the Pathway

The book, Serge & Merge Quilts was published back in 2009. After eleven years, it may be unavailable from your local store. If you can’t find a copy at the store, try the internet.

In case you would like to learn more about the author and Serge and Merge Quilts – Down the Pathway, here is a link to Sharon’s blog post. http://sharonrotz.blogspot.com/2013/04/tulips-springing-up.html

The Down the Pathway quilt is just one of several projects I have completed from Sharon’s book, which I will share with you in the future. I hope you enjoyed this post!

Flatlock Piecing With a Serger

Posted on March 24, 2020October 21, 2020 by jghuiz

It’s still March and National Quilting Month, so here I am highlighting another way to use a serger to quilt. Flatlock piecing with a serger is a great way to add an artistic flair to your quilts. With a serger flatlock stitch, you are embellishing your quilt with decorative thread as you piece it together. The photos in this post are of my Four Square Table Runner that I made in 2014. This table runner is one of my favorite serger quilts I have made!

My Four Square Table Runner

My table runner is a great example of how easy it is to modify a traditional quilt pattern for serger construction.

Fabric, Pattern and Thread

I used a package of forty 5” squares called Tonga Treats by Timeless Treasures. The “Four Square Table Runner” pattern came free in the package. I don’t know if this fabric is still available, but you can do this technique with any fabric or quilt pattern.

I used a variegated purple YLI machine quilting thread in the needle and Maxilock serger thread in the loopers.

Serging

I followed most of the pattern instructions to make the quilt top, except for using a sewing machine. Instead, I pieced the quilt together with my serger using a three thread flatlock stitch with a length of 2. I serged the pieces right sides together, so the “ladder” side showed after pulling the flatlock stitches open.

I added a border, which I also attached with the flatlock stitch. Instead of a traditional quilt sandwich, I used a flannel fabric as batting. and attached the backing using the pillowcase or “birthing” method (without binding). I serged the layers together leaving an opening for turning right sides out. After turning and pressing, I hand stitched the opening closed and hand tacked the layers together invisibly at the corners of the blocks. I wanted the decorative thread and the flatlock stitching to be the center of attention.

What is a Serger Flatlock Stitch?

A flatlock stitch can be used to seam two fabrics together and to add detail to a seam line. It has unbalanced tensions that allow you to pull open the seam so it lays flat. Typically the needle thread tension is very loose and the lower looper tension is tight. The flatlock stitch is also reversible. It forms a “loop” stitch on one side of the fabric and a “ladder” stitch on the other side of the fabric. If you serge a seam with the fabrics right sides together, you will end up with a ladder stitch on the right side. The “ladder” you see is the needle thread. If you serge a seam with the fabric wrong sides together you will end up with a “loop” stitch on the right side. The “loop” you see is the looper thread. The example below show the ladder and the loop sides of two maple leaf quilt blocks that I made when I was practicing flatlocking.

What is Serger Flatlock Piecing?

When you sew your pieces together to form a quilt block, it is referred to as “piecing”. When you piece with a sewing machine the stitches made by a sewing machine are hidden within the seam. Flatlock piecing with a serger is piecing your quilt blocks together with a flatlock stitch. The stitch used in flatlock seams is very visible in the finished quilt. You can use the standard serger presser foot for this technique.

Video – Flatlock Piecing With a Serger

For all you visual learners out there I created this short video of the flatlock stitch in action. https://overtheedge.blog/videos/flatlock-piecing-with-a-serger/

How to Easily Remove a Three Thread Flatlock Seam

Tips for Flatlock Piecing With a Serger

Follow the instructions in your manual for setting your serger up for a flatlock stitch. There are different types of flatlock stitches (2 or 3 thread, wide or narrow). I typically use a three thread flatlock for piecing quilts.
For piecing a quilt with a flatlock stitch, I keep the blade engaged and run the raw edge of my fabric along the blade. I don’t really cut anything off, I just trim stray threads.
Always test your serger set-up on a scrap of fabric and adjust as needed, before you begin serging your actual project. The actual tension settings and stitch length needed will vary with different threads and fabrics.
Leave a few inches of thread tail at the end of each seam. By leaving long tails you will prevent your seams from unraveling until you have a chance to secure them.
Press your flatlock seams flat before pulling them open. I feel it helps the fabric within the seam fold properly during the opening process. After pulling the seams open, I press them again.
Your finished blocks may be a little larger than they would be using a sewing machine. The process of opening of the seam allowance changes the size of the seam allowance slightly.
I use the three thread flatlock stitch in smaller projects like table runners and wall hangings. Flatlock stitches are more exposed and tend to snag more easily, so I don’t typically use this stitch for quilts that will get a lot of wear.
Set your iron temperature appropriately for the thread you use in your flatlock stitch, or use a press cloth. Since the thread sits on the surface of your fabric it has more exposure to the heat of the iron. It is possible to melt the thread in your serger stitches – I know from personal experience!

Are you Inspired?

I hope you enjoyed this post and are inspired to try flatlock piecing with a serger.

Quilt with a Serger

Posted on March 17, 2020April 5, 2020 by jghuiz

Since March is National Quilting Month and I love my serger, I thought I would show you how simple it can be to quilt with a serger. To inspire you to try it, I designed my own pattern. My challenge was to design a quilt that was quick and easy to piece using a serger and used only one layer cake of fabric. I named my design, “Forty Two Ten by Jen”. Simple and catchy don’t you think?

Layer Cakes and Other Precuts

I frequently use precuts for my quilts because I don’t have to stress over choosing coordinating fabrics. Precuts come in many different shapes and sizes such as layer cakes, charm packs and jelly rolls. I believe Moda was the first to create the “layer cake” which is basically a package of 42 ten inch squares that all coordinate. Using the word “layer cake” to describe a package of 42 ten inch squares is like calling all brands of facial tissue “Kleenex”. These packages of ten inch squares go by names such as Moda Layer Cakes, Riley Blake Ten Inch Stackers, and Bali Crackers.

A Little Information About my Quilt

For my quilt I used Riley Blake’s, Azure Skies Ten Inch Stacker, designed by Simple Simon and Company.

I am happy to say that my Forty Two Ten by Jen serger quilt is a zero waste quilt, which means it uses every single piece of fabric with no scraps. Those little scraps that are leftover from projects always create a small amount of anxiety for me. Should I throw them away or keep them for another project? If I throw them away I feel guilty. If I keep them I usually can’t find them when I need them. Does anyone else ever feel this way? No need to worry because this quilt has no leftover scraps – yay!

Equipment Required

This project does not require a fancy serger. As long as your serger can do a 4 thread overlock stitch, you can use it to make this quilt. However, not everyone is lucky enough to own a serger, so I also included instructions for how to piece this quilt on a sewing machine. I hope you enjoy quilting with your serger using my free pattern “Forty Two Ten by Jen”.

Tutorial and Printable Instruction Sheet

Click the link to go to my tutorial and printable instruction sheet. https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/forty-two-ten-by-jen-serger-quilt-tutorial/

National Quilting Month: Texture Quilting with your Serger

Posted on March 3, 2020March 3, 2020 by jghuiz

March is National Quilting Month and is the perfect month for me to blog about quilting with your serger. Texture Quilting with your Serger is about stepping out of your comfort zone and experimenting with all your serger can do.

My Inspiration

My quilt is made up of all 15 different technique blocks from the book Power Serge, by Pam Damour and Betty Mitchell. I love all the texture that the serger adds to the quilt. To make all 15 blocks you must have a few accessory feet and be able to do both overlock and coverstitch. If your serger does overlock only, there are 7 technique blocks that you can serge. The blocks can be used to make a reference book of techniques or make a project. The book has a section called “all squared away” where they give instructions for quilts, table runners and pillows made from the technique blocks.

My Textured Block Quilt

Instead of placing my block on point like the quilt projects in the book, I chose a traditional layout with sashing. The blocks were trimmed to 6.5” square and assembled into 3 columns and 5 rows. I cut 2” wide sashing strips to use between my blocks and as a border. The overall size of my wall hanging quilt is approximately 24” x 39”. I used the four thread overlock stitch on my serger to piece the quilt top together.

Some of my favorite blocks to make were the serger lace, the basket weave, the ric rac rope and the stitch and scrunch.

All Squared Away Class

I taught a class at my local fabric store using the overlock technique blocks from the Power Serge book. Below are photos of some of the blocks made by my students. It’s amazing how different they all look! My student’s favorite blocks to serge were the serger lace and the decorative trim block with the beads.

In Conclusion

Are you looking to expand your horizons and to better utilize your serger? If so, I recommend you get yourself a copy of the book, Power Serge, and get serging! If you can’t find the book at your local sewing or quilting store, you can purchase it directly from the author’s website at https://www.pamdamour.com/product/power-serge-by-pam-damour-and-betty-mitchell-hard-cover-book/

The block techniques are a great place to begin, but this book has much more to offer. Also included in Power Serge is a section of great finishes, clutches and covers, all squared away and just for fun. I will definitely be making more projects from this book.

HIS & HERS Serger Pillowcases

Posted on February 28, 2020February 28, 2020 by jghuiz

A serger pillowcase is a great beginner project for those new to serging. In the classes I teach, I always encourage my beginning sergists to start with a simple project that they already know how to sew. An easy project allows them to focus on learning the serger without also having to figure out the project. Sewing doesn’t get much easier than a few straight seams and a couple of pieces. If you sew, you have most likely made a pillowcase using a sewing machine. So why not try to make one with your serger?

I developed these instructions for HIS & HERS Serger Pillowcases to be used in my beginning serger classes. Although there are many different ways to construct a pillowcase, I feel that this is the easiest way to make them on a serger. Both pillowcases fit standard size bed pillows and are made completely with a serger – no sewing machine required.

The HIS Pillowcase

The HIS Pillowcase is very simple and should be done before the HERS Pillowcase if you are new to serging. Only two pieces of fabric are used for this pillowcase – the main body and the cuff. After setting your serger up for a 4 thread overlock stitch, all you need to do is serge straight seams, wrap a corner, and secure your seams at the beginning and end. These skills are the first ones we practice in my Serger SOS class after getting our sergers threaded. (SOS stands for Serge On Successfully.) There is always a little more to learn when you switch from practicing on a small scrap of fabric to incorporating the skills into an actual project.

The HERS Pillowcase

The HERS Pillowcase is a slightly dressed up version of the HIS Pillowcase but still simple enough for a beginner. In addition to the techniques used to construct the HIS Pillowcase, you also add a 3 thread rolled hem to the edge of the cuff and gather the cuff with your serger. Only three pieces of fabric are used in this pillowcase – the main body of the pillowcase and two pieces for the ruffled cuff.

Link to My Tutorial

Below you will find the link to my full tutorial on the HIS & HERS Serger Pillowcases. Included are tips on how to wrap corner seams for perfect corners and how to adjust serger gathers.

HIS & HERS Serger Pillowcases Tutorial

Serger Roses

Posted on February 21, 2020February 21, 2020 by jghuiz

I love making fabric flowers, especially when I can use my serger! Serger roses are just gorgeous when you begin with a beautiful satin fabric and some fun decorative thread. A typical way to finish the raw edges of the satin with a serger would be to use the 3 thread rolled hem or the 3 or 4 thread overlock stitch, which would work well. However, for these roses I chose to use the 8 thread stitch on my Babylock Evolution to really emphasize the edges of my rose petals.

How to Make a Serger Rose

Here is what you need to make a serger rose like mine:

3″ wide by 58″ long strip of satin fabric
8 spools of machine embroidery thread (or as needed for your desired stitch)
3″ square of felt for the backing
heavy duty hand sewing thread for finishing the rose
hand sewing needle
2″x44″ long strip of poster board to use a folding template
iron and ironing board
serger, set up for an 8 thread stitch (or your desired stitch)
a few wonder clips
hot glue gun and glue sticks

Step 1: Serge

Begin by serging both raw edges of the fabric strip from the right side. Trim off just a little of the raw edge with your blade so you have a nice neat edge to your rose.

Step 2: Fold Strip Around Template

Draw a 45 degree line near both ends of your poster board strip, and one near the center. These lines serve as guidelines to help you fold your strip at the proper angle to create your rose “petals”. With right side showing, begin at one end and wrap your fabric strip around the template until you have wrapped it all. You can use a wonder clip to hold the ends and keep the strip from slipping off the template. See photo below.

Step 3: Press Folded Strip and Remove from Template

Press one or both long sides of your folded strip while still on your poster board template. If you would like a crisp edged rose, press both sides. If you would like a softer edged rose, press only one long side. After strip has cooled, carefully slide out the poster board template, and orient the folds of the strip just like they looked with the template inside. See photo below.

Step 4: Gather Strip and Form Rose

Thread a hand sewing needle with heavy duty thread. Sew a running stitch along one long edge and up one short edge at the end of the strip. Gather up your rose as desired. I gathered my fabric strips to about 12” long and then formed the rose by wrapping the gathered strip around itself. After each turn I took a stitch to tack the layers together. I made a base for my rose from a piece of felt and I used hot glue to secure it. Cut the base large enough to cover your tacking stitches, but small enough not to be seen from the front of the rose.

Step 5: Add to a Project and Enjoy!

A serger rose would look equally beautiful on a garment, bag or home decor item. I choose to create a gorgeous pillow from this textured silk fabric to showcase my roses. And yes, in case you are wondering, I used my serger to make the both the pillow cover and the tassel.

Resources

I was inspired to make serger roses by the book, Fun-to-Wear Fabric Flowers, by Elizabeth Helene Searle. My method is very similar to the one used in her book on page 57 to create the “grey folded rose”. Instead of using a piece of fabric with the raw edges folded in, I used my serger to embellish the edges with thread. And instead of free-hand folding the strip into 45 degree folds, I created my own folding template to make this task much easier.