I received many compliments while out and about carrying my serged satchel. Everyone always asked me where I bought my bag. With a smile, I said thank you and told them that I made it. I kept using the bag until it was very, very worn. What a sad day it was when I finally retired my serged satchel!
The Pattern
I made the purse using a pattern from Indygo Junction, called the Serged Satchel. The bag is flirty and feminine and is loaded with ruffles that highlight exposed serged edges.
My Serged Satchel
The bag I made looked very similar to the light colored purse on the pattern envelope. I used osnaburg fabric for the outside of my bag and a cotton print for the inside. Osnaburg is a rustic looking fabric like muslin, only more coarse. I edged the ruffles with a variegated YLI machine quilting thread. Thin fusible fleece gave the bag some soft stability.
I serged the edges of the ruffle strips using a basic 4 thread serger with a standard 4 thread overlock stitch. I also used my serger to gather the strips. The rest of the bag was constructed using a sewing machine per Amy Barickman’s instructions.
I used the leftover ruffle strips to make 2 pockets for the inside of the bag.
Thoughts on the Serged Satchel
If you’ve ever sewn a purse, you know that they are more effort to put together than you may think. And this purse was no exception, but it was worth it. I could always count on my serged satchel and its fun ruffles to brighten my day!
Resources
If you would like more information about the pattern, click on this link to go to the Indygo Junction website at: https://indygojunction.com
If you have a serger with a cover stitch and a belt loop binder attachment you are going to love this post, Triaxial Weaving with a Serger Belt Loop Binder. A new way to create quick and easy fabric strips for weaving into your own custom fabric! No more making fabric strips on the bias and no more burning your fingers while ironing the folded strips!
Serger Belt Loop Binder Attachment
Baby Lock has a specialty serger attachment called a Belt Loop Binder, which comes in two sizes (1.5” and ¾”). Other manufacturers may have something similar. The belt loop binder is designed to be used with a cover stitch.
I’ve seen it used to make belt loops, handles, straps, and bracelets. Belt loops and straps are very useful. But making your own woven fabric from these strips is way more exciting and is another perfect application for this attachment. And you don’t have to make bias strips for this weaving to work. You can cut strips by the width of the fabric (selvage to selvage), feed them into bias binder attachment on your serger, and quickly make fabric strips ready to weave into cool designs! This method is so much faster than cutting traditional bias fabric strips and standing at the ironing board pressing the edges under. And since it works on the cross grain, you don’t have to spend time creating the bias strips of fabric. I love my serger!!!
Modern Fabric Strip Weaving
Fabric strip weaving is becoming a popular activity. I first saw a bias fabric strip triaxial weaving project in a Sew News magazine (Feb/Mar 2017)
The article/project was titled “Take It or Weave It” was written by Tara Curtis, of Wefty. She invented a tool called the Wefty Needle to help make fabric strip weaving much easier. Bias fabric strips are made and then folded and pressed into bias tape. Then the bias tape is woven into fabric. Of course when I saw the project my first thought was “how can I use my serger to make this easier!”
Tools for Weaving
I purchased a set of Wefty needles from Tara. They work well for weaving ½” folded fabric strips and 1” folded fabric strips made with bias strips the traditional way. However, the Wefty Needles don’t work as well for serger belt loop binder strips. The tool was just a little too wide for the ¾” strips made from the 1.5” belt loop binder. It was hard for me to get through the tight weave of the third row of the triaxial weave. If the Wefty Needle was available in a ¾” or ⅜” it would be perfect for using with fabrics strips made with babylock belt loop binders!
I ended up using a bodkin (for inserting elastic or cord into a casing) to help me weave that 3rd row. The Wefty needle would have worked better than the bodkin if it were the right size for the ¾” strips. Recently, I found a ¾” elastic threader by Dritz that I am going to try on my next project. For other tools needed for fabric strip weaving see the Resources section at the bottom of the post.
Weaving Types
Basic or simple weaving occurs in 2 directions (biaxial at 90 degree angles to each other). Some forms of basic weaving you may be familiar with include plain weave, satin weave, twill weave, basket weave. Triaxial weaving occurs in 3 directions (triaxial 60 degree angles to each other). You can make some really nice weaving projects with basic weaving, but I think there is something special about triaxial weaves. I have included some links to resources about weaving at the end of this post.
Jen’s Triaxial Weaving with a Serger Belt Loop Binder
The Sew News article did inspire me to try fabric strip weaving, even though I didn’t make the basket that was in the article. Following the basic instructions in the article, I created my triaxial weave using fabric strips made on my serger with the 1.5” belt loop binder attachment. I then used the new “fabric” to construct this bucket from Simplicity pattern 8859 (I did make a few minor modifications to the pattern for this fabric basket/bucket). I really enjoyed triaxial weaving so I had to do more of it. After one project I was hooked!
I really like the look of “stars” in triaxial weaving, so I decided that would be my next project. I figured out how to weave the stars after some trial and error and a little research on the internet. It probably would have been faster to purchase a pattern from Wefty to show me how to do it, but I wouldn’t have learned so much about weaving! Like with the fabric bucket project, I used the 1.5” belt loop binder attachment to make my strips. Then I made a pillow from the triaxial weave “stars” fabric that I created. This pillow was constructed on the serger, including using a cording foot to install the zipper. The pillow pattern I created may be included in my blog in the future.
Tutorial – Setting Up and Using a Serger Belt Loop Binder
I created a tutorial and a video to help you be successful using the belt loop binder attachment with your serger. You will find the links below.
What happens to the fabric and thread you trim off as you serge? Does it end up on your lap, your table, your floor or stuck to your project? Spend less time cleaning up and more time serging with Jen’s Serger Trim Catcher & Mat!
The first serger I ever owned had a plastic catch bin that attached to the front cover. It worked well for catching small bits of thread. But if you were cutting off much fabric there was a problem. The catch tray would cause the trimmed fabric to flip up into the loopers and get caught in my stitching. After a few mishaps, I removed the bin and let the trimmings fall to the table or my lap. Eventually I grew tired of all the “hitch hikers” that seemed to travel all over my house as they fell from my clothes. I needed a solution.
My solution was to use my serger to make a simple trim catcher mat that was easy to clean and non-slip, so that my serger didn’t vibrate around on my table. After experimenting with a few ideas, I came up with a working prototype that met all my requirements. And to celebrate National Serger Month, I thought I would share my design with you.
The Design of Jen’s Serger Trim Catcher & Mat
I chose oil cloth for its smooth wipeable surface and its substantial “weight”. The serger trimmings wipe easily into the pocket on the front and are easy to scoop out and throw away.
Grip shelf liner (or rug grip) seemed like a good material to keep my serger from vibrating around the table as I worked.
The design should be simple and easy to construct.
I didn’t want any extra pockets to hold tools on the front of my catcher. Having tools right in front of me is like asking them to get caught in my project while I serge. I prefer to have a tray on the table next to my machine to hold my accessories.
The Evolution was my first serger with Babylock’s exclusive wave stitch and the trim catcher was my first project on that serger. I just had to use the wave stitch to embellish the outer edges of the trim catcher and mat!
This mat works well for 4 thread overlock machines and smaller 8 thread overlock machines like the Babylock Evolution.
Finished size of Jen’s Serger Trim Catcher & Mat – 15” x 18”.
Serging with Oil Cloth and Grip Liner
The only reason I didn’t put “easy” in the title of this project is because of the challenge of working with my chosen fabric. Both the grip liner and the oil cloth are “grippy” and can stick to the bed of your machine or table. I wasn’t sure that I could successfully serge the grip shelf liner and the oil cloth together, but the Babylock Evolution handled it beautifully! As I serged, I made sure the grip layer on the bottom was well supported and not catching on my machine or table. Be certain to test the combination of grip shelf liner and oil cloth layers with your serger. If your serger doesn’t like feeding the grip shelf liner you could always glue it to the underside of the oil cloth after you have completed the serging steps.
Pocket Support
The first catcher I made did not include a dowel or boning for support of the pocket edge. It worked fine, but the pocket edge became a little droopy over time. So in my other versions, I tried a ¼” thick wooden dowel, and a piece of plastic boning (used in clothing for support). Both work well to support the upper edge of the trim catcher pocket. As you can see in the photo below, the pocket with the dowel is more rigid and the pocket with the boning is more flexible.
The Wave Stitch
The wave stitch looks best with thick decorative thread and serged onto the edge of a stable material that will not pucker under the weight and width of the stitching. It’s a stitch with oscillating tensions that creates a “wave” with the upper and lower looper threads. The wave stitch is exclusive to Babylock. If you don’t have the ability to do the wave stitch, you could embellish the edges of your serger trim catcher & mat with a three thread overlock.
Wave Stitch
Jen’s Serger Trim Catcher & Mat Tutorial
Are you ready to make a serger trim catcher for yourself? Go for it! Click on the link below for the full tutorial.
In response to our current pandemic, like many sewists out there, I have been making face masks to distribute to family, friends, nursing homes, and other places. However, thin elastic has become difficult to find. When I ran out of elastic, I thought what do I do now? After experimenting with scraps of spandex with great success, I decided I needed to share my solution with you. If you have access to any spandex type fabrics, you can use them to learn How to Make Spandex Cord for Your Face Mask.
I have a huge stash of spandex scraps from various figure skating and colorguard costume projects that I have worked on over the years. I was so happy to finally put those scraps to good use! After a little bit of trial and error I came up with this ¼” elastic substitution for my face masks. I call it “spandex cord”. My daughter has been wearing these face masks a lot, and she says the spandex cord is much more comfortable on the ears than regular elastic.
Cut Spandex into Strips
It’s pretty simple to make. Cut ⅜” wide crosswise strips from your spandex fabric (selvage to selvage.) You can cut pieces about 8-9” long or cut across the entire width and subdivide into individual pieces later.
Grab Both Ends and Pull
Grab both ends of the strip and give it a firm pull. Watch, like magic, as the edges of the spandex strip curl and the strip turns into a stretchy piece of spandex cord. If your strip doesn’t curl, try cutting your strips parallel to the selvage instead of crosswise. Let the spandex cord “relax” for a few minutes before you cut it to size. It may shrink up a small amount after all the stretching and curling.
Cut to Size and Apply to Face Mask
You will need to experiment with your mask pattern to determine how much cord you need to be comfortable wearing your face mask. On my face mask pattern I use 7.5” of spandex cord for each ear (and 9.75” of ¼” elastic). So I actually use a shorter piece of spandex than I would for elastic.
It’s pretty easy to make, but don’t be scared off because of the length. It’s a long tutorial because I included a ton of photos to make it easier to understand. I use a serger for finishing the edges in a couple of steps (or you could use a zig zag stitch on a sewing machine.) The mask is mostly made on a sewing machine.
I tried several different face mask patterns, and I find this one to be the most comfortable for my face. I also included information on how I wash my face masks in the tutorial.
Video – How to Make Spandex Cord for Your Face Mask
Follow along with me as I will show you how to make spandex cord for your face mask in my YouTube video below.
Disclaimer
Make and wear fabric masks at your own discretion. I’m trying to help where I can, just like everyone else. I am definitely not an expert in anyway in face mask protection. Face masks made from this pattern are not considered personal protective equipment (PPE) and may not protect you from pathogens. I have included links to the CDC and other sources about face masks in my full tutorial.
Keeping the world healthy, one face mask at a time.
Down the Pathway is a project from the book, Serge and Merge Quilts, by Sharon V. Rotz. As she says in her intro to the project “Have fun displaying your serging talents as you construct a tulip garden with dimensional flowers and leaves.” And I sure did! This quilt was fun to make!
I love my Down the Pathway quilt. It makes me happy! Every time I look at my quilt I think of a beautiful spring day. I serged it with a combination of flatlock, rolled hem and overlock stitches and merged it with traditional quilting on a sewing machine.
Fabric Prep
I chose an ombre purple batik fabric for my tulips and an ombre green batik for my stems, leaves and borders. The ombre fabrics gave me the perfect variety of colors for my tulips, greenery, borders and binding. The bottom border (or ground) was a coordinating green batik. I used a light green batik as the background (sky). The photo shows how I fussy cut my leaves, stems, borders and binding from the green ombre batik.
Create Background
The first step I took in creating the background of this quilt was to serge my “stems” using a flatlock stitch on the fold of the fabric. I serged some stems with the ladder side up and some with the loop side up. I used a variegated Madeira Polyneon thread for my flatlock stitches.
Flatlocking on the fold is a little different than flatlock piecing. By folding the fabric you can place the flatlock stitch in the center of the fabric rather than only on the edge. When you flatlock on the fold, you serge with the loops hanging half off of the fabric, which allows your fabric to lay flat when the stitch is pulled open. I recommend you practice flatlocking on the fold before you begin this part of your project. It takes a little more skill to get a nice even stitch than does flatlock piecing. Flatlock piecing is used to join two pieces of fabric and it is placed on the edge of the fabric. Sharon provides some information about flatlocking on page 16 of her book.
After finishing the flatlock “stems” I added the top and side borders. I did not miter my borders as is instructed in the book. Using a sewing machine, I quilted this piece to the batting/backing along each of the flatlock stems.
Create Tulips
I serged the edges of the tulips using a 3 thread rolled hem stitch with Madeira Polyneon embroidery thread in the upper looper. To create the three dimensional tulips, I gathered the bottoms by hand with a running stitch and a strong thread .
Layout, Fuse and Quilt Greenery and Attach Tulips
After laying out my stems and leaves in a pleasing arrangement, I fused them down with an iron and pressing sheet. The pressing sheet both protected my iron from the fusible web and my thread from the heat of the iron. After fusing, I stitched down the raw edges of the stems and leaves using a sewing machine. I left some leaves 3 dimensional, as it says in book. After finishing the leaves and stems, I hand stitched a tulip at the top of each stem.
Add Bottom Border
I added the bottom border after the tulips and greenery were attached to the batting and backing.
Machine Quilt Borders
I used a swirly leaf pattern for the free motion machine quilting of my borders, as you can see from the back side of my quilt in the photo below.
Add Binding and Finish
I used my rotary cutter and a ruler to trim and square my quilt sandwich before adding binding.
I chose to use two different parts of the green ombre batik fabric for my binding. The light colored green was the perfect choice for the top and right edge binding. And I used the darker green for left and bottom binding.
To finish the quilt, I added a hanging sleeve, which you can see pinned on the right side of the photo.
All done!
Down the Pathway Details
I included a few close up photos of the tulips, leaves and background flatlock stitching so you can better see the details.
Down the Pathway Class
I taught this as a class at my local fabric store. The class covered only the serger portion of the project (flatlocking, overlocking and rolled hem). Students did the rest on their own at home. A few of the students allowed me to share photos of their Down the Pathway quilts. Aren’t they beautiful. Spring is in the air!
A Few Final Words
It’s never too late to change something. After I finished the quilt, I stepped back to admire it from a distance. Everything looked great except one area of the background. My eyes kept being drawn to an area of the background that was a too dense with flatlock stems. I ended up removing one stem of flatlock stitches, and now I think it’s perfect! Can you spot the change?
Serge and Merge Quilts – Down the Pathway
The book, Serge & Merge Quilts was published back in 2009. After eleven years, it may be unavailable from your local store. If you can’t find a copy at the store, try the internet.
The Down the Pathway quilt is just one of several projects I have completed from Sharon’s book, which I will share with you in the future. I hope you enjoyed this post!
Since March is National Quilting Month and I love my serger, I thought I would show you how simple it can be to quilt with a serger. To inspire you to try it, I designed my own pattern. My challenge was to design a quilt that was quick and easy to piece using a serger and used only one layer cake of fabric. I named my design, “Forty Two Ten by Jen”. Simple and catchy don’t you think?
Layer Cakes and Other Precuts
I frequently use precuts for my quilts because I don’t have to stress over choosing coordinating fabrics. Precuts come in many different shapes and sizes such as layer cakes, charm packs and jelly rolls. I believe Moda was the first to create the “layer cake” which is basically a package of 42 ten inch squares that all coordinate. Using the word “layer cake” to describe a package of 42 ten inch squares is like calling all brands of facial tissue “Kleenex”. These packages of ten inch squares go by names such as Moda Layer Cakes, Riley Blake Ten Inch Stackers, and Bali Crackers.
A Little Information About my Quilt
For my quilt I used Riley Blake’s, Azure Skies Ten Inch Stacker, designed by Simple Simon and Company.
I am happy to say that my Forty Two Ten by Jen serger quilt is a zero waste quilt, which means it uses every single piece of fabric with no scraps. Those little scraps that are leftover from projects always create a small amount of anxiety for me. Should I throw them away or keep them for another project? If I throw them away I feel guilty. If I keep them I usually can’t find them when I need them. Does anyone else ever feel this way? No need to worry because this quilt has no leftover scraps – yay!
Equipment Required
This project does not require a fancy serger. As long as your serger can do a 4 thread overlock stitch, you can use it to make this quilt. However, not everyone is lucky enough to own a serger, so I also included instructions for how to piece this quilt on a sewing machine. I hope you enjoy quilting with your serger using my free pattern “Forty Two Ten by Jen”.
Did you know that February is National Embroidery Month? I thought this would be the perfect time to share with you the sewing tote project I made using both my serger and my embroidery machine. I used the pattern “Serge-Broidery Sewing Tote” by Sue Overy Designs. https://sueoverydesigns.com/product/sewing-tote-serge-broidery/
About the Tote:
When I teach serger classes, I use this tote to carry my supplies. It has an interior pocket that I use for patterns or fabric, and an outside clear vinyl pocket with a zipper that I use for accessories such as feet and tweezers. I really like being able to see my accessories through the clear vinyl pocket! The only part of the pattern I wasn’t crazy about was the bamboo handle. So I made a fabric handle instead.
Machine Embroidered Details:
All of the embroidery designs I used on this tote were included with the pattern. I began by stitching the serger design near the center front of the tote. Then after finishing the flatlock piecing of the front panel, I embroidered the dress form applique on the front lower right corner. Finally, the needle was embroidered on the flap after chain stitching the “thread”.
Serger Details:
The tote features decorative thread and four serger stitches – flatlock, cover stitch, chain stitch and four thread overlock.
For my decorative thread, I chose metallic Madeira 12 wt. Glamour to give my serger stitches a little sparkle. Using a flatlock stitch, I pieced together the fabric for the front of the tote. I installed the zipper on the clear vinyl pocket on the back using the cover stitch, along with a cording foot. I also used the cover stitch in combination with the belt loop binder attachment to make the handle. The “thread” that goes through the needle on the flap is a clever use of the chain stitch. The four thread overlock stitch was used to finish constructing the tote.
If you are interested in utilizing different stitches and techniques on your serger, this would be a good project for you.
I introduce to you, the cozy sweater shirt – 100% serger made – no sewing machine required.
Because I love my serger, I am always looking for more ways to use it. I wanted to make a top that could be completely constructed on my serger without the use of a sewing machine. When I saw Simplicity 8988, I knew that this pattern would be a great starting point for my cozy sweater shirt. The exposed seams down the center front and back were perfect for showcasing serger stitching with decorative thread.
How I Changed the Pattern to Serge my Cozy Sweater Shirt:
Simplicity 8988 was written for a sewing machine, but I easily adapted it for serger construction and embellishment utilizing both overlock and cover stitches. If your serger is not capable of chain stitch or cover stitch you could still make this cozy sweater shirt. You would just need to substitute your sewing machine for the steps that include chain stitch or cover stitch.
To adapt a pattern for serging, all you need to do is to group similar stitch types as much as possible. Most sewing patterns are not optimized for serger construction. If you follow the pattern as written, you will find yourself converting back and forth between serger stitches. For some sergers, this conversion can be a time consuming process. I feel very fortunate to own a Babylock Evolution serger because converting between stitch types is easy!
Four Thread Overlock:
I began by grouping all of the 4 thread overlock operations together. I serge finished the raw edges of the exposed seams and neck edges with decorative Madeira Lana thread. The shoulder seams and the raw edges of the interior seams were serged with Maxilock Stretch thread.
Chain Stitch:
Next I converted my serger to the chain stitch to sew the center front and back seams and the upper sleeve seams.
Wide Cover Stitch:
Then I switched to a wide cover stitch and stitched down the center of the exposed front and back seams and the upper sleeve seams. The cover stitch helps to keep the seams partially open during wearing so the cool serger stitching always shows.
The wide cover stitch was also used for the bottom hem and the sleeve hems. I turned the hems to the inside and serged so that the looper thread showed on the right side of the top. These hems were finished before closing the side seams. It is much easier to cover stitch flat than in the round.
The belt loop binder attachment along with the wide cover stitch was used to make the ties.
Chain Stitch:
The last serger conversion was back to the chain stitch to sew up the side seams, finish the neck hem, and make the channels for the ties. After inserting the ties, my cozy sweater shirt was ready to wear!
I had been eyeing this cute cherry print fabric for some time. One day at work I noticed the fabric was almost gone. Thinking to myself, “it’s now or never,” I bought the small piece of fabric that was left on the bolt. There it sat in my stash, patiently waiting for the perfect project to come along. And along it did. The pink cherry print fabric graduated from stash to apron. :)
Pattern Front
Pattern Back
The Pattern
Sue O’Very’s pattern, Cookin in Color Serger Apron, is designed for serger construction. Throughout the pattern, you learn to serge with different techniques, feet and attachments, and the end result is a fun color-blocked apron. For me this pattern was definitely worth making. Now that I have serged my apron, I can say that cooking in my kitchen has never been so colorful!
Highlights of Serging with this Pattern
Applying the pocket zipper using a serger cording foot. What a great way to install a zipper!
Creating the hanging loop using the belt loop binder attachment. I love the belt loop binder, and I will definitely share more with you in future posts.
Embellishing the waistband and ties with Babylock’s exclusive wave stitch. With the right thread, this stitch is gorgeous!
www.overtheedge.blog
www.overtheedge.blog
www.overtheedge.blog
Time to Inspire You
I love to learn new things, don’t you? Would you like to learn to better use your serger? Do you already own the feet and attachments needed for this project? Are you willing to invest in a few feet or attachments to better broaden your serging horizons? If you answered yes to any of these questions, this pattern may be for you. The more you do with your serger, the more skilled you will become.
“Success is a journey, not a destination. The doing is often more important than the outcome. ” – Arthur Ashe
Where to Get More Information About the Pattern
Did my apron inspire you to learn more? Check out the apron tutorial at sueoverydesigns:
I believe that a sewing room really isn’t complete without a serger. A serger allows you to create professional looking seams that are difficult to replicate with a sewing machine. It sews your seam, trims your seam and overcasts the edge of your fabric all in one step – talk about a time saver! The stitches are formed from a bunch of interlocking loops, which give serger seams their signature “stretchiness” and make them perfect for knit fabrics. You will find serger stitches in almost every textile item in your home – take a close look at your clothes, your curtains, your tablecloths, etc. Did you find any serger stitches? I bet you did! The serger doesn’t replace your sewing machine, but it makes a perfect companion. A sewing machine and serger are like an oven and microwave. What would a kitchen be like without both? Sure, most sewing machines do overcast stitches and some have attachments that can cut, but the seams they create are just not the same (in my opinion). If you sew and don’t already own a serger, now would be a good time to do your research and decide if a serger is right for you. Stop by your local sewing store and talk with someone who knows sergers. If you do decide to get a serger, come back and visit me. If you already own a serger, whether you are a serger newbie or a sergist extraordinaire, you are in the right place.
This blog is for all of you out there who have invested in a serger and want to do more with it. Get it out of the box or the closet. Set it up. Start using it. Whether your goal is to neatly finish the edges of your fabric or to push your serger to its limits, I am here to help you learn to use your serger and to inspire you to create beautiful things. I look forward to serging with you!
