Learn how to serge a set of pattern weights that you will love! My pattern weights are a beginner friendly serger project, but even the most experienced sergist will enjoy making them.
I’ve been using oddball household items as pattern weights for years. If it could hold down a pattern piece it was fair game – old marble coasters, magnetic pin cushions, rulers, canned food, etc. I thought it was time I had some pretty pattern weights. And so an idea was born….
My Ideal Pattern Weights
Since I designed these myself, I wasn’t limited to features currently available commercially. I considered what features I would like in a pattern weight and the best way to construct it using a serger. Below is the list of criteria I used to design my ideal pattern weights:
made using only only my serger
no hand sewing
not too large
fairly heavy for its size
a handle to make it easy to pick up and move
Serger Techniques Used
4 thread overlock stitch
locking ends at the beginning and end of a seam
wrapped corners technique (Why clip corners to reduce bulk when you can wrap your corners instead!)
Supplies
Here’s what you need to make one pattern weight:
3” x 7” piece of fabric cut into one 3”x3” square and two 2”x3” rectangles
4” piece of ⅜” ribbon
2.5” of ½” wide fusible web like Steam a Seam 2
2 Tablespoons of metal BBs (like the kind you use in a BB gun)
Equipment
basic serger, capable of 4 thread overlock stitch
4 cones coordinating thread
tool for poking out corners
Wonder clips (or pins)
Serge a Set of Pattern Weights
I’m very pleased with my pattern weights. I can’t believe I spent all those years using oddball things for weights!
Several years ago I purchased this fun kitty spandex so I could make my daughter a swimsuit or maybe a pair of leggings. For my daughter’s birthday this year, I finally made her the “purr”fect swimsuit. Summer is here, and the perfect time to serge a swimsuit!
Swimsuits by Serger or Sewing Machine
Although you could use a sewing machine to make a swimsuit, it’s so much more professional looking if you use a serger. The four thread overlock stitch is great for serging seams and applying elastic. The narrow cover stitch is perfect for top-stitching. If you don’t have a cover stitch machine you could use a sewing machine and a zig zag stitch to top-stitch. This is the way I used to do swimsuits and figure skating costumes before I had the cover stitch.
Three Thread or Four Thread Overlock
Technically a three thread overlock is the stretchiest stitch, and is sometimes recommended for stretchy knits. The four thread overlock is almost as stretchy. I typically use the four thread overlock for serging all of my knit garments because I like the added security of the second row of straight stitches. If one row of straight stitching pops, I still have one row to hold the seam together.
Thread
I used Maxilock serger thread in the needles and Guterman Bulky Nylon in the loopers. The texturized nylon is soft next to the skin and really stretchy. Some other brands of texturized nylon thread I use are Maxilock Stretch, YLI Wooly Nylon and Madeira AeroFlock.
Pattern Used for The “Purr”fect Swimsuit – Jalie 3350
For my daughter’s “purr”fect swimsuit I used Jalie pattern 3350. I combined the twist front from view B with the open back of view A. The pattern didn’t call for lining on the back side, but I added it. The kitty spandex had a white background, and I was afraid it would be too see-through when wet. I also changed the order of construction to minimize changeovers on my serger between overlock and coverstitch.
This swimsuit pattern was a little more complicated because of the twist at the bust. But the twist was worth the time and fuss because of the extra flair it added to the suit.
The pattern also included an extra pocket in the bust lining so you could insert a swim cup for more bust coverage. I bought my swim cups from Sew Sassy. A link to their website is included in the Resources section at the bottom of this post.
I haven’t seen Jalie patterns in the stores locally, but they are easy to find online. Jalie is a Canadian company. You can also find their patterns in shops on etsy and ebay. I’ve used Jalie patterns many times for swimsuits and figure skating dresses. Their patterns include a ton of sizes, so it’s possible to get a great fit without a lot of pattern modifications. The pattern also gives tips for sewing a swimsuit with a sewing machine.
Jalie wants you to be successful using their patterns. You will find photo tutorials for different patterns and lots of tips on Jalie’s website. I have included a link to their website in the Resources section at the bottom of this post.
Applying Elastic to a Swimsuit with a Serger
For this swimsuit, I used ⅜” cotton elastic meant for swimwear. I pre-treated it by soaking in hot water and then drying it in my dryer on low heat.
Presser Foot
I use a standard presser foot to apply my elastic on my swimsuits. There is such a thing as an elastic foot for a serger, which is great for some applications. But I find it easier to use a standard presser foot for serging the elastic on swimsuits, or for a pattern that calls for applying elastic in the round.
Quarter Pinning
The most common technique I use for applying elastic by serger is called quarter pinning. I divide both the elastic and the spandex edge into fourths and mark them with pins. Then I pin the elastic to the project aligning the marks.
Usually the elastic is smaller than the spandex, so you have to stretch the elastic as you serge. Quarter pinning helps you spread out the extra spandex so everything looks nice and even. If the edges are fairly long, I will pin in eighths to be sure I am evenly stretching the elastic to fit my spandex.
Serge with Elastic on Top or on Bottom?
The most common way I see instructions written for applying elastic by serger is to serge with the elastic on top and your fabric on bottom (against the feed dogs). A tiny little bit of fabric should peek out to the right of the elastic so you are sure you are catching it in the stitches. Sometimes I do it this way.
And sometimes I serge with the elastic on bottom against the feed dogs. A little bit of elastic should peek out to the right of the fabric, so you are certain you are catching the elastic in the stitching.
Sometimes I find it easier to line up the raw edges of the spandex and the elastic as I am stretching it to fit, when the elastic is on bottom. I am less likely to have the spandex migrate away from the elastic and end up with spots not caught in the stitching.
When I made the “purr”fect swimsuit, I applied elastic using both methods.
Engage or Disengage Blades?
I disengage my serger blades when I am using a standard presser foot to apply my elastic, so I don’t cut through my elastic. I am very careful to align the elastic and spandex along the edge where the blade normally cuts. If the fabric and elastic move too far to the right of the blade, they could get caught in the loopers and create a mess. The photo below shows my fabric (on top) and elastic (on bottom next to the feed dogs) lined up just to the left of my cutting blade. The stiletto is pointing to the location of the blades.
With the blades disengaged, you will need to manually trim the threads from any seam allowances you cross as you serge.
I also increase my stitch length to 4 so I don’t put too much thread bulk into my seams. You could use a three thread overlock stitch to attach elastic. But I usually use a four thread overlock to attach the elastic because I don’t want to spend the extra time changing between stitches. Since I am usually stretching the elastic to fit the spandex, all the stitching seems closer together when everything relaxes back to its unstretched state.
Serging and Sewing the “Purr”fect Swimsuit
I used my sewing machine to:
baste the lining pieces to the main pieces
gather a small amount in bust area
attach the back closure hook
attach the straps at the back edge
stitch a few areas of the bust twist
attach the elastic to the short front V neckline using a zig zag (The bulk of the twist at the neckline was easier to maneuver through the sewing machine.)
I used my serger to:
attach the elastic
serge the seams
finish any exposed edges
top stitch the elastic with a narrow coverstitch
Basting is Helpful for Serging
I baste all of my lining pieces to my main pieces using the longest straight stitch my sewing machine will do (which is 6 mm I think). The basting keeps the layers from shifting when I am serging. Because the fabric stretches a little as I baste, the stitches look a little loose, but that’s ok. These stitches are not seen from the right side of the finished swimsuit.
When I am done serging the seams, I stretch each seam until I hear the basting stitches pop. After the basting stitches break the seam regains its full stretch-ability. Don’t forget to break the basting stitches or the person putting it on for the first time will pop them and think they ripped the swimsuit. If the basting stitches hang out of the seam too much after popping I will pull some of them out, but mostly I leave them in. No one but me really notices the seams anyway. Most people just notice how good they look in the garment!
Narrow Cover Stitch
I used a narrow cover stitch to top-stitch all of the elastic in the swimsuit. The narrow cover stitch works well for top-stitching ⅜” elastic, and I like the way it looks.
I used my cover stitch foot to apply the elastic with the needles in the C1/C2 position. The cover stitch foot is narrower and makes it easier to see the right edge of your project. By aligning the right edge of the elastic just past the right edge of the cover stitch foot I get the perfect placement for my narrow cover stitch on 3/8″ elastic. You want to stitch close to the left inner edge of the elastic. If you stitch too close to the outer edge, the wrong side of your elastic will tend to curl out and not lay flat against your body when worn.
I used a stitch length of 4, which is the longest stitch length on my serger. The stitches end up looking shorter because of the thickness of the elastic and multiple layers of spandex.
A Great Technique for Finishing off a Cover Stitch
This technique has worked with every serger I have tried. It will pull your needle threads to the back at the end of the seam so they are ready to finish off with a knot. It saves time and frustration. See the Resources section at the bottom of the post for a link to my tutorial on Finishing off a Cover Stitch in the Round.
The “Purr”fect Swimsuit
I hope you enjoyed this post and are inspired to serge a little spandex!
https://jalie.com/blog/cat/photos Link to Jalie’s photo tutorials – There are six tutorials on how to make the 3350 swimsuit. I didn’t discover these until after I had made my swimsuit. It would have been helpful for everything but making the twist! Unfortunately the tutorial for the front was only for view A.
Last week I blogged about the Serger Funsie Onesie that I made for my niece’s baby. This week I made another gift for her baby – a Serger Sleeve Saver Bib. This great bib has sleeves to protect the sleeves of your child’s outfit. The bib is made from stretch terry cloth with ribbing at the cuffs and neckline and bias binding on the edges. The serger is the perfect tool for construction of this bib and to apply the bias binding.
The Pattern
The pattern instructions for applying the ribbing and constructing the seams are written for a standard four thread overlock stitch on a serger. A sewing machine can also be used. The pattern applies the binding using a sewing machine, but I applied the bias binding with a serger chain stitch using a double fold bias binder. If you don’t have a chain stitch capable serger you could apply the binding with your sewing machine following the instructions in the pattern. You will find a link to the Sleeve Saver Bib pattern in the Resources section at the bottom of this post.
Applique
I used my embroidery machine to applique a cute owl on the front of the bib. If you don’t have an embroidery machine you can apply an applique with your sewing machine. The pattern comes with several shapes for appliques. I purchased the owl applique on Etsy. You will find a link to the design in the resources section at the bottom of this post.
Here is my terry cloth pattern piece with my owl applique already applied.
Apply Bias Tape
The bias binding I used for the bib, was the same bias binding I created for the funsie onesie. I set up my serger for a C1 chain stitch and attached my 36mm double fold bias binder.
I’ll be honest with you. I was trying to finish this project quickly and so I just jumped right in without practicing. Not a good idea with stretch terry. The first time I bound the back edge it was a little wavy, so I took it out and tried again with my differential feed set to 1.3. This time the back edge looked good. The straight back edge was fairly easy, but it took me three tries to get the binding right on the sharp curves on the front. Good thing that the chain stitch pulls out easily and I made lots of extra bias strips!
The trick on sharp curves on stretch terry is to go slow. Take a few stitches. Stop with the needle down. Lift the presser foot to release the pressure on the stretch terry. Continue this process until you are through the curve.
How to Use a Serger Double Fold Bias Binder Tutorial and Video
For more information on how to use double fold bias binder with a serger check out my tutorial and video:
Seam allowances on the Sleeve Saver Bib pattern are ⅝”. If you are using a sewing machine, the pattern has you trim the seams down to ¼” after they are sewn.
Since I used my serger for all the seams, I just trimmed the allowances down to ¼” as I serged. My serger has markings to the right of the blade that show you where to line up your raw edges of seams with ⅝” seam allowances. If you are unsure of how to trim down a ⅝” seam to ¼” using your serger, you could always trim off the extra seam allowance with your scissors before you serge. Then when you serge you only need to align the raw edges next to the blades. Or you could use a marking pencil to draw the seam allowance on the fabric and align the marks with your needles.
Apply Ribbing
I used a piece of spandex material in place of the ribbing called for in the pattern.
The cuff pieces were applied first. I cut the pieces 2” longer than stated in the pattern so I had a one inch “grab tab” on each end. It’s not required, but I find it easier to have the extra fabric to hold onto when stretching the ribbing to fit.
If you find it difficult to keep all three layers from shifting as you serge, you can always baste the raw edges of the folded ribbing together before pinning the ribbing to the project. That way you only have to control two layers of fabric instead of three. Basting first with my sewing machine gives me much better results on ribbing. And I spend a lot less time resewing because one layer of fabric slipped away from the seam.
Next I applied the neck band. I serged the short ends together to make a circle. Then I folded it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and pinned the neck band to the bib. I matched the seam of neck band to center back of neck of the bib. You will need to evenly stretch the ribbing to fit.
Sleeve Seams
The last step was to serge the sleeve seams. I finished the ends of my seams by locking the ends with my serger.
Serger Sleeve Saver Bib
Here is a front view and a back view of my finished Serger Sleeve Saver Bib.
This bib is both cute and practical and the perfect accessory for my serger funsie onesie from last week’s blog post. I can’t wait to see it on my niece’s baby girl! I hope this post inspires you to use your serger more…..
Transform an ordinary onesie into a super sweet outfit for a little baby girl! This Serger Funsie Onesie is fun to create using basic stitches on your serger. My niece is having a little baby girl and her nursery theme is owls. I found this cute little owl onesie and knew I could turn it into something special. I can’t wait until the baby is big enough to wear it!
The Funsie Onesie Pattern
The pattern for the Funsie Onesie came from the book, Simple Serging Sewing, edited by Julie Johnson.
The Transformation from Onesie to Sweet Dress
I was amazed at how a few simple additions took this onesie from cute to amazing! Read along and observe the transformation.
Here’s my onesie, skirt fabric and waistband bias strip.
Prepare Strip for Ruffled Skirt
Because my onesie was larger than the one in the pattern, I added 1” to the length of the ruffled skirt piece.
The instructions said to use a plate as a template for rounding the ends of the ruffle strip. I used the plate as a starting point, and then I drew in the rest of the curve in freehand.
For this project I used a Babylock Imagine serger. I set my serger up for a 3 thread narrow hem to finish the bottom edge of my ruffled skirt. You could also use a 3 thread rolled hem if you like. I used Maxilock thread in a color that matched my fabric.
To gather the ruffled skirt, I used my serger ruffling foot (the G foot for the Babylock Imagine) with a 4 thread overlock stitch. Even though you can use the foot to simultaneously create the ruffle and attach it, I chose to do it in two steps so I could adjust the ruffle to fit the onesie exactly. I set my differential feed to 2, my stitch length to 4 and my stitch width to M. The raw edge of the skirt was just skimmed by the blade as I serged. I also held my finger behind the foot to help it gather just a little bit more.
If you don’t have a ruffling foot for your serger, you can still use your serger to gather. Follow your instruction manual for gathering. Usually gathering on a serger involves increasing the differential feed and stitch length (and increasing your needle tensions if you have a serger with tension dials.)
Here’s what my ruffled skirt piece looked like after gathering it with my serger.
Prepare Onesie
Determine where to cut your onesie. My onesie was a 6-9 month size. I cut it apart as stated in the pattern instructions.
Create Bias Waistband
Next I created the bias waistband strip. The bias fabric strip has a some stretch which makes it a little easier to dress the baby. The waistband also adds back in length that was lost in the seams from adding the skirt to the onesie. So your onesie length will still be the same size as when you started. I used a standard 4 thread overlock stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to serge the ends of the waistband together.
Attach Waistband
I pinned the bias waistband strip to the top half of the onesie, and serged the seam with a standard 4 thread overlock stitch.
Attach Skirt
My onesie waistband measured about 18” around, so I adjusted the gathers of my ruffle to equal 20” (18″ + 2″ for overlap.) My serger didn’t gather the fabric quite as much as I needed. So I adjusted the gathers by first separating the needle threads from the looper threads. And then I pulled on the needle threads and slid the fabric, just like I would using 2 rows of basting stitches on my sewing machine. I overlapped the ends of my ruffled skirt by 1” on each end.
After adjusting the gathers, I pinned the ruffled skirt to the bottom of waistband, aligning the overlapped section of skirt slightly off center. I serged this skirt to the waistband using a standard 4 thread overlock with a stitch length of 2.5.
Attach Bottom Half to Top Half
After attaching the skirt, the last step was to reattach the bottom half of the onesie. I pinned the onesie panties to the waistband/skirt section, making sure that the side seams of both onesie halves were aligned. To serge this seam, I increased my stitch width as wide as it would go (7.5) and used a stitch length of 2.5. I made this stitch wider than the stitching I used to gather the ruffle, so the gathering stitches on the skirt would not show on the right side of the garment.
Add Finishing Touches
Even though the skirted onesie was adorable, I thought it needed just a little something more. So I hand stitched a few ribbon roses on the waistband and one at the center of the neckline.
My Serger Funsie Onesie
My serger funsie onesie is finished and ready for a sweet baby girl to wear! I hope you enjoyed this post and are inspired to serge.
Resources
Book – Simple Serger Sewing, published in 2009, but found online:
Would you like to learn how to bind a quilt using a serger double fold bias binder? If yes, then keep reading! Although I’ve found several videos and articles about the double fold bias binder and its potential as a tool, the internet seems to be lacking in resources about actual projects made using this attachment. So I thought I would try to fill the gaps by sharing my experiences using the attachment on some of my projects.
The project featured in this post is my recently designed and completed Watermelon Patio Table Topper Quilt. It’s basically a christmas tree skirt with a summer twist! The opening in the quilt fits around my patio table umbrella. The topper adds a little fun to my outdoor summer dining. In the future I hope to create an actual pattern for my design, but for now I will share with you how I used the serger double fold bias binder attachment to finish the curved edges of the quilt
Traditional Double Fold Bias Tape
I love the look of traditional bias bound edges, but I am not always excited about applying folded bias tape using traditional methods. If you use pre-folded bias tape and just slide it over the edge of your project and stitch it down, you risk not catching it on the back side. Or you do catch the back side, but your stitches waver because you didn’t catch the bias tape evenly. And pre-made folded bias tape isn’t available in many colors or prints, so often it is hard to find one that matches your project. Sometimes I do make my own double fold bias tape to coordinate with a project, but I don’t enjoy spending all that time at my ironing board pressing the folds into my bias fabric strips.
Serger Applied Double Fold Bias Binding
Now that I’ve experienced using the double fold bias binder for my serger, I’m in love! The serger double fold bias binder attachment folds your bias fabric and attaches it all in one step, saving you time and giving you professional results. To use this attachment you need to make your own bias fabric strips. This does take a little time, but opens up so many creative possibilities because you are not limited to what is available commercially.
Getting Ready to Bind a Quilt with a Serger Double Fold Bias Binder
Things you need to get started:
Serger, capable of chain stitch or cover stitch
Double fold bias binder attachment and attaching screws
Bias cut fabric strip
Quilt or project to bind
Things I’ve Learned About the Serger Double Fold Bias Binder
Practice. You will be guiding the project with your left hand and the bias fabric strip with your right. Grab some scraps and begin with straight edges. Once you’ve mastered the straight edge, experiment with some curves.
Test your binder alignment and settings before jumping into the project. It’s no fun if you have to readjust after you start applying binding to your actual project.
Make sure you keep your project raw edge positioned against the folder. If it migrates away, you may not catch it in the binding.
Don’t be afraid to modify the width of your bias fabric strips slightly to achieve better results. I found that I had better results with 1½” bias strips on my project instead of the recommended 1⅜”.
You may need to change your needle positions for better results with the chain stitch. I found that using the left needle C1 worked much better for me than the right needle C3.
Tweezers are very useful at getting the bias fabric strip into the attachment and under the presser foot.
Make more bias fabric strips than you think you will need. That way you are ready if you have to do a lot of testing or make a mistake. If you have extra left over, you can always use it on another project or for more testing.
The fewer seams in your bias fabric strip, the better. The extra bulk in the seams can sometimes cause little fluctuations in your stitching.
You can’t miter corners with this method of applying binding. You must serge on at the beginning and serge off the end of each edge.
Full Tutorial and Video on How to use the Serger Double Fold Bias Binder
If you want all the details on how to use the serger double fold bias binder to bind a quilt or other project click on the link to read my full tutorial at:
I also created a video on how to use a serger double fold bias binder in case you prefer to watch the tool in action. Click on the link below to watch my bias binder video.
The serger double fold bias binder attachment is not just for binding quilts. I’ve used it on other projects such as aprons. The aprons below were bound using my serger and the double fold bias binder.
Jen’s Basic Serger Bound Apron – Isn’t this apron cute?! The binding, the ties and the flower on this apron were all done with this tool. Learn how to make this apron in a future project post on my blog.
Festive Holiday Apron – This apron was made from Simplicity pattern 8857. I adapted the instructions slightly so I could use my serger double fold bias binder attachment. All of the red binding on this apron was done with this tool. I was really happy with the results!
Until the Next Project…
I hope you enjoyed this post about how to bind a quilt using serger double fold bias binder. Hope to see you back at my blog soon!
I always get excited when I get an opportunity to use the coverstitch on my serger for more than just hems on knits. Although these textured chic pillows may appear advanced, they were actually very easy to make on the serger using a narrow coverstitch and silk dupioni fabric. The secret to the texture is in the special shrinking fabric. I just love how the textured surface of the dupioni silk changes color with the light!
The Book – Serger Boutique
Both of these pillows were based on projects in the book, Serger Boutique by Nancy Zieman and Barbara Goldkorn. I used the instructions from the Textured Chic Pillow project to construct my green pillow. I constructed my purple pillow using the instructions from the project, Randomly Stitched Texture Pillow.
Texture Magic
The special shrinking fabric is a synthetic fabric that shrinks when it is steamed. There are two brands that I am familiar with – Texture Magic by Superior Threads and Fabric Magic by Pellon. Sew or serge it to the back of the fabric you want to texturize, apply steam and watch it magically transform. The package says it can shrink up to 30%. I think the amount of shrinkage is dependent on the fabric to which it is stitched.
Shrinkage Test
I wanted to see how much my silk dupioni would shrink, so I would know how much fabric I needed to make my pillows. For my test I started with a square of Texture Magic and of silk dupioni. I drew lines on the piece of Texture Magic and pinned it to my silk. I then stitched on the lines with a narrow coverstitch.
Then came the fun part – the steam! I hovered over the sample with my iron at full steam and watched the fabric shrink. The result of my test is shown in the photos below. My square started at 12.5” x 12.5” and it ended up at 10” x 11”. So my fabric shrank 12% in one direction and 20% in the other direction. My fabric didn’t shrink quite as much as the “up to 30%”, but the texture was still amazing.
Embellish the Pillow Fabric
I began by drawing lines on the texture magic for where I wanted to stitch on the green pillow. For the purple pillow I didn’t need to draw the lines because I was stitching randomly. After finishing my lines, I pinned a piece of texture magic to the back side of each piece of dupioni.
I set up my serger for a narrow coverstitch with thread to coordinate with my fabric. I wanted the puffy texture to stand out and not the thread. Maxilock thread was used in the needles and Mettler embroidery thread was used in the chain looper.
So I could see the lines more easily, I used a clear foot, but a standard presser foot would also work. With the Texture Magic side up, I serged on the lines (or randomly) to stitch the Texture Magic to the silk.
I have a Babylock Evolution serger, and there is not very much room to the right of the needle. Because I was serging into the center of the fabric, I had to shift and maneuver the bulk of the fabric around the right side of the presser foot. If you have a coverstitch capable serger without a lot of “throat space” you will need to roll and fold your fabric to get it to fit through the machine. Those of you that have sergers like the Babylock Ovation or Babylock Triumph, you will have no problem serging into the center of large pieces of fabric.
Following the instructions for the texture magic, I steamed the fabric to shrink it and here are close up photos of the resulting texture.
Turn the Embellished Fabric into a Textured Chic Pillow
My finished pillows are 12” x 16” and completely made on the serger. I did not make the same size pillows as in the book, but I did follow the basic instructions. Because I wanted to remove my pillow forms for cleaning, I chose to make an overlap back for my pillows. I used a narrow coverstitch to make a 1” double fold hem on each side of the back opening.
After embellishing my fabric and doing the hems, I switched my serger to a 4 thread overlock to construct the pillow. While serging the pillow seams, I wrapped the corners to make perfect points on the right side of my pillow. There is no need to trim the extra fabric from the corners with this technique. For more information on how to wrap corners with a serger, check out my His & Hers Serger Pillowcases Tutorial. https://overtheedge.blog/tutorials/his-hers-serger-pillowcases-tutorial/
Textured Chic Pillows by Serger
I hope I inspired you to serge your own Textured Chic Pillows!
Resources
Serger Boutique – Book was published in 2012. Check your local sewing store, or check the internet, sites like ebay or amazon to get a copy.
I had so much fun making my Simply Leafy 2 quilt that I thought I would share it with you. Simply Leafy 2 is a project from the book, Serge & Merge Quilts. It’s a small wall hanging and is the perfect size to experiment with creative serging. The serger creates the texture in the background and enhances the dimensional stems and leaves. The project showcases serger flatlock stitching, but uses a sewing machine to complete the quilting and binding. If you enjoy creative quilting and you have a serger, you should give this project a try!
Fabric and Thread Choices
I used quilting weight cotton for all the fabric in my Simply Leafy 2 quilt. I selected a brown leafy floral as my focus fabric and off white for the background. Based off the leafy floral fabric, I chose green fabric for the leaves and brown for the stems. The instructions said to use yarn for embellishing the flatlock stitches so I chose a brown perle cotton. I decided on a variegated Sulky Blendables 30 weight thread for the background flatlocking and a variegated YLI quilting cotton thread 40 weight for flatlocking the leaves and stems. I used Maxilock serger thread in the positions that were not visible in the stitches.
Flatlock Background and Create Rectangle Blocks
I randomly pressed lines in my background fabric to mark my folds for flatlocking. Then I created ladder stitching on the folds of fabric using both a narrow and wide two thread flatlock.
I serged each fold, then pulled it open. I pressed all of the flatlock stitching at once after I was finished serging the lines. After flatlocking I used two strands of perle cotton to create extra texture, making knots as suggested. The only change I made here was to add my yarn knots before I cut out the rectangle blocks. Unsecured flatlock stitching unravels easily near the edges, so I thought this change would create less stress on those stitches. When I ran out of yarn, I just cut 2 new pieces and continued where I left off. I fussy cut around the thread tails as I cut out my rectangles, so each rectangle was unique.
Create Leaves and Stems
For flatlocking my leaves, I put the variegated thread in my needle. I wanted the variegated thread to show on my leaves. After flatlocking the leaf strip on my serger, I traced the leaf pattern onto the fabric. I then completed making the leaves on my sewing machine.
For finishing the stems, I set the serger up for a two thread overlock. The two thread overlock is basically the same stitch as the two thread flatlock, but you don’t open the seam. I put variegated thread in the lower looper because the loops ended up on the right side of my stems.
Piece Together Background
After serging the leaves and background, I converted my serger to a four thread overlock stitch. I used the four thread overlock stitch to serge the background rectangles together. I handled the rectangles carefully to keep the cut flatlock stitches from unraveling before piecing them together.
Quilt with Sewing Machine
I layered my backing, batting and top of my quilt sandwich and quilted the background using a sewing machine. My quilting was simple. I stitched lines between my lines of flatlocking and outlined some of the leaves in the brown rectangles.
Add Stems and Leaves
After the background was quilted, it was time to add the stems and leaves. I auditioned my stems and leaves on the background until I was happy with the layout. Then I stitched them all down with my sewing machine. Since the top leaf hangs off the edge, it was easier to stitch it on after the binding was applied. One of the things I really like about this project are the three dimensional stems and leaves!
Add Binding and Finish
The instructions have you use two different colors of binding. I bound the top, bottom and right side of my quilt with off-white and the left side with brown. I attached my binding to the front of quilt, and then flipped it to the back. To secure the binding, I stitched in the ditch on the front side with my sewing machine. I also added a hanging sleeve on the back
Flatlocking on the Fold
You typically see serger stitching on seam lines and fabric edges. But flatlocking is not limited to seams or fabric edges. You can flatlock on a fold and create decorative stitching within the body of your garment or project.
Flatlocking is a technique you can do with your standard presser foot. However, a foot with a guide, such as a blind hem foot, will make flatlocking easier.
The flatlock stitch is reversible. Which means you can use either side of this stitch in your projects. I like both the “loop” side and the “ladder” side of the flatlock stitch. To see the loops on the right side of your fabric you fold it with the wrong sides together. To see the ladders on the right side of your fabric you fold it with the right sides together.
When you flatlock on the fold, you serge with the loops hanging off of the fabric. You must guide your fabric so that the fold is about halfway between the needle and the blade. (See photo below.) Without the extra thread in those loops, you won’t be able to pull open the stitch to make it flat. If you have too much fabric in the stitch you won’t be able to fully open it. The stitch will look lumpy on one side and like a tunnel on the other. If you get too little fabric in the stitch you will have loose and floppy stitching.
I recommend you practice flatlocking on the fold before you begin this part of your project. Sharon provides some information about flatlocking on page 16 of her book. Your serger manual will instruct you how to set up and perform a flatlock stitch with your machine.
Simply Leafy 2
I hope you enjoyed my post about the creation of my Simply Leafy 2 wall hanging quilt.
Embellishment can turn a plain garment into a WOW garment. Why not use your serger to make your garments special! I love the texture created from twists and tucks. I’ve heard them called wave tucks or twisted tucks, or as I call them serger twists. I’ve used this serger technique in bags, pillows, serger covers and garments. You can make these folded tucks/twists with a sewing machine, but it is more fun with a serger because you have the added element of decorative thread. Keep reading to learn more about how I started with a pattern for a plain top and transformed it into my serger twists sleeveless top.
The Pattern
As a foundation for my serger twists sleeveless top, I chose a simple sleeveless top pattern, New Look 6483 view E, and a linen blend fabric. I basically followed the pattern to construct the top, but with a few changes. I modified the pattern to include a serger twists center panel, and I serged some of the steps instead of using my sewing machine.
Equipment
Serger capable of three thread overlock and 4 thread overlock
Sewing machine
Sewing and serging supplies
Pattern, such as New Look 6483
Marking pen/pencil
Fabric and thread
How to Create Serger Twists
I began by preparing the center panel. I cut a rectangle piece of fabric about 4” longer than the center front pattern piece of the top and about twice as wide as my desired finished center panel plus 4” extra. You need the extra fabric because the width is drawn in as you create the twist. For my top I decided on 7 twists. I marked 7 vertical lines 1¼” apart with a Frixion pen in the center of my rectangle. I folded each line, wrong sides together and pressed to create creases. The creases make it easier to serge on the folds in the next step.
Serge
I set up my serger for 3 thread overlock wide with a stitch width of ¼” and disengaged the blade. Maxi Lock thread was used for all positions because I wanted my thread to blend in with the fabric to emphasize the texture and not the thread color. You could use a more decorative thread if you wanted. I used a stitch length 2-2.5, but it could be longer or shorter depending on the thread and look you are trying to achieve.
Serge on each fold, lining up the fold with where the blade would normally cut. I used a standard foot and guided my fabric along the disengaged blade. But you could also use a blind hem foot for your serger and set up the guide to help you position the fold in the proper place. Serge the same direction each time, so that the upper looper thread is on the same side of all the folds. Press folds well to set the stitches. You may need to use a press cloth so you don’t damage your thread.
Mark and Stitch
I drew horizontal lines 1” apart on the panel perpendicular to my serged folds using my Frixion pen. Using my sewing machine I stitched across the folds on the lines in alternating directions. You can hold the twists down with your fingers as you stitch to make sure they lay the proper direction. See photo below. Don’t press the twists after making them or you will distort them. You can hover over them and steam them if needed.
How to Modify Pattern Front for Center Panel
I measured my center panel as it would be finished in my top to be 4.5”. So I added my seam allowances (⅝” + ⅝” = 1¼”) before trimming the center panel to 5¾” wide. The extra fabric on the top and bottom was cut off after combining the center panel with the rest of the front pieces.
Since I added in a center panel, I needed to remove an equivalent amount from the front pattern piece, so the new top front was the same size as the original pattern piece. I determined that the amount to be removed was 3¼” (4½” for the center less seam allowances of ⅝” + ⅝” = 1¼”). The original pattern piece was a single piece cut on the fold. So I cut off 1⅝” from the center of the folded front and ended up with a right and left front piece.
I changed my serger over to a standard 4 thread overlock stitch for serging my garment seams. To create my new top front I serged together the left, center and right front pieces. I pinned the center panel right sides together with the right front and left front. Then I double checked that my new front piece would end up the same size as my original pattern piece front. I serged the seams and trimmed center panel using the original front pattern piece as guide.
Finish Garment Construction
The rest of the garment was constructed using the pattern instructions, but I used my serger for some of the steps. The stay stitching, darts, neckline, armhole edges and hem top stitching was done with my sewing machine. I also used my sewing machine to under-stitch the neckline front facing to keep it from flipping outward. The side seams and raw edges of hems and facings were serged with a standard 4 thread overlock. I used ⅝” seam allowances to be consistent with the pattern and trimmed off the extra as I serged.
Once you cut off that extra seam allowance you cannot put it back on, so I suggest you make certain the garment fits before seaming it with a serger. Making a muslin mock-up takes more effort, but it leads to much less frustration in the long run. It’s a real bummer to spend hours making a beautiful looking garment only to have it not fit when you are all done.
Inside Look
I turned my top inside out so you could get a detailed look at the construction. If you look closely you will see darts, seams, hem and facing edges, and the wrong side of the serger twists. This top has been worn and washed so the stitching you are looking at is not as crisp and clean as when new.
My Serger Twists Sleeveless Top
Serger twists are a fun way to add embellishment to your projects and garments. As with any garments with exposed stitches, handle and launder with care. Any large loops on garments always have the potential to snag or get pulled. Think of those light, airy, lacy sweaters that we buy at the store that are so beautiful. We love to wear them, even though they snag easily. Serger stitches don’t snag as easily as those sweaters, but because of the loops, it’s best to handle them with care. I recommend hand washing garments with exposed stitching. After I spent all that time making the garment I want to be able to wear it more than once!
I hope you enjoyed this post about my serger twists sleeveless top. Try spicing up your garments with serger stitching!
I received many compliments while out and about carrying my serged satchel. Everyone always asked me where I bought my bag. With a smile, I said thank you and told them that I made it. I kept using the bag until it was very, very worn. What a sad day it was when I finally retired my serged satchel!
The Pattern
I made the purse using a pattern from Indygo Junction, called the Serged Satchel. The bag is flirty and feminine and is loaded with ruffles that highlight exposed serged edges.
My Serged Satchel
The bag I made looked very similar to the light colored purse on the pattern envelope. I used osnaburg fabric for the outside of my bag and a cotton print for the inside. Osnaburg is a rustic looking fabric like muslin, only more coarse. I edged the ruffles with a variegated YLI machine quilting thread. Thin fusible fleece gave the bag some soft stability.
I serged the edges of the ruffle strips using a basic 4 thread serger with a standard 4 thread overlock stitch. I also used my serger to gather the strips. The rest of the bag was constructed using a sewing machine per Amy Barickman’s instructions.
I used the leftover ruffle strips to make 2 pockets for the inside of the bag.
Thoughts on the Serged Satchel
If you’ve ever sewn a purse, you know that they are more effort to put together than you may think. And this purse was no exception, but it was worth it. I could always count on my serged satchel and its fun ruffles to brighten my day!
Resources
If you would like more information about the pattern, click on this link to go to the Indygo Junction website at: https://indygojunction.com
Adding decorative serged seams to your garments is as easy as serging a seam. Just use pretty thread and serge your pattern pieces wrong sides together so the serged seams become exposed on the right side of the garment!
In recent years the inside-out look has become popular. Exposed serged seams can be found in many ready to wear garments. It’s fun to duplicate that look in garments you make yourself.
I made this cute little girl’s dress with a basic serger, long before I had my Babylock Evolution. The dress was made with a soft cotton interlock knit, a wide three thread overlock stitch and Maxi Lock serger thread. The flared skirt panels are very twirly, perfect for the little girl who likes to twirl! This project is proof that you can make great garments with a basic serger. (However it does take a little more work and time because you have to do more testing of your stitches and spend more time threading.)
The Dress – Kwik Sew Pattern K3944
I made this cute dress many years ago, and so the pattern is now out of print. But I searched the internet and found it still for sale on various sites like Etsy. What I liked about this Kwik Sew pattern (besides the cute dress) was that the instructions were written for a serger. As you can see from the pattern envelope, I pretty much made view A exactly as pictured – similar yellowish green fabric, and pink and blue thread. I used a 3 thread wide overlock stitch for all the exposed and internal seams. The sewing machine was only used for top-stitching the elastic casing on the sleeves and neckline. And I did design my own flower for the skirt, instead of making the one included with the pattern.
Here are a few closeup photos of the stitching.
Neckline Casinginside SeamsSleeve CasingExposed Serged Seams on Skirt
Notes on Construction
I changed the order of construction to minimize changeovers between the pink and blue thread. I used a shorter than normal stitch length on the exposed seams, making the serger thread more visible. At the time I made this dress I didn’t have any thick decorative thread, so I just used standard serger thread. I did some testing on scraps to determine the best combination of fabric, stitch and thread before beginning the project.
My Flower
I took a long strip of knit and serged both long raw edges with a 3 thread overlock. Then I twisted the strip like you would twist streamer decorations for a party. Then I coiled the strip and glued a piece of fabric to the back to hold it together. I safety pinned it to the dress so it could be removed for washing.
Adding Decorative Serged Seams to Your Garments
I hope you enjoyed my post about adding decorative serged seams to your garments. For another example of decorative serged seams check out my Cozy Sweater Shirt post link below.
